I just got my CBR1000RR 2004 3 weeks ago. She's got 44,000km on the odo. She's in immaculate condition, except for gear shifting. When I shift from neutral to 1st gear, there is a hard CLONK sound and the bike lurches forward. At fast idle and also normal idle speed. Sometimes it clonks hard other times it's more gentle, but it always clonks and lurches. While riding and shifting gears, she tends to be very sticky moving from one gear to the next. I can't "just shift", like "quickly pull clutch, move lever, release clutch. I have to pull the clutch all the way to the bar, push the lever and wait, she kind of sticks on her way from one gear to the next. Sometimes I nudge the shift lever a few times to move it past the sticking point between gears. Moving the lever can take 2-3 seconds, and I have to wait until the lever has fully moved before I release the clutch. So I have to shift slowly, and feel the gear lever has fully moved. I can't just do a quick ClutchIn shift ClutchOut. Sometimes shifting is a lot easier, but it's never smooth and easy. I've spoken with the previous owner (he only had the bike for 3 months. He buys bikes, restores them, then sells them as a hobby) He said he's not changed the clutch fluid, but he replaced the engine oil with fully synthetic 1,500km ago. I told him about the gear shifting issue and he recommended I change the clutch fluid. The clutch fluid might be very old. The oil recommended by a local Honda dealership is Semi-Synthetic. They said people often have issues with the clutch sticking when they use the wrong oil. Is it possible that the fully synthetic oil made the clutch stick? The one guy at honda recommended I just try change the clutch fluid. The other guy recommended I get the whole clutch system serviced. I'm wondering if I should change the fluid myself, or take it to an experienced mechanic and ask him to take the entire clutch system apart and service it? I could also change the oil and filter, as well. So maybe it needs 1. New clutch fluid 2. The correct oil 3. Whole clutch system disassembled and serviced 1 and 2 will be a waste if it doesn't work, because the oil must be drained to remove the clutch plates. The clutch fluid must be removed to take the whole clutch system apart. So I guess the only guaranteed way not to waste time/money is to go straight for 3. Any advice will be appreciated
Hi, and welcome. I have a 2005 model and I would say the "clonk" from neutral to 1st is normal. I'm no clutch expert, but I would go with the fluid change first, It's as cheap as chips and won't take too long. If this doesn't solve the problem then maybe get the clutch looked at (possibly worn), I'm not sure the oil is a problem I think quite a lot of people run fully synth. It's more likely to cause clutch slip than anything else. Here's a vid I watched, the bike is different, but the process exactly the same. All the best
Try a clutch less gear change .Ride the bike as normal ,but in say 3rd or 4th gear just put upward pressure on the gear lever . Do not use the clutch but just let off the throttle slightly and see if the bike goes up to the next gear freely. This should tell you if you have a sticking clutch or a gearbox problem as you will not have used the clutch to change gear. Most honda bikes tend to bang into first gear from neutral.
@r1monkey thanks for that very insightful test. I will try the clutchless gear change. I've done it before on my prev bike so I know the technique. I searched youtube for "sticky clutch motorcycle" and found 2 videos where the guys had a sticky clutch, and their problem was caused by notches scratched into the clutch basket. The notches prevented the clutch plates moving apart freely separating. Example The recommended fix is to replace the clutch basket, but in both videos the guys filed the grooves on the clutch basket away so the clutch basket surfaces were smoother. That solved or greatly reduced their sticky clutch issues. The one guy said his issue was so bad that his bike couldn't idle with the clutch pulled while in gear. And the other guy couldn't shift to certain gears with the engine running before the fix. In my case I can shift gears, its just difficult. Also when the bike is off, when I push the bike around its massively easier in neutral than in gear with the clutch pulled.
@dansp1 I don't know If this clutch lever is standard or not? @r1monkey Clutchless shifting is easy & smooth.
I had a simlar problem years with an R6. It was shifting fine until I did a bit of work on it and then the shifting was notchy and reluctant. I took it to have the MOT done and the mechanic mentioned the same. He suggested I check the chain tension. I went home, checked it and sure enough it was a little too tight. I did it again giving a little more slack and bam. Back to smooth shifting. Next bike I bought I didn't think shifting was too nice so checked the chain tension and sure enough there was a little too much play in it. Got it sorted to the correct amount of slack and it sorted it. Might be worth giving it a check.
@BoroRich thanks for the reply. What you're saying is completely new to me. I can't imagine how mechanically chain tension would have any effect on the ability to change gears. In my understanding of the mechanics of the situation, the gears won't shift when there is a load on the gearbox. So the one way to remove the load is to disengage it with the clutch. The other way is to cut the ignition with a quick shifter, or to close the throttle slightly so that the bike is free-rolling (no acceleration/deceleration load). Also, my previous bike, the Honda VFR400 didn't have a great wheel clamp, so it couldn't hold the hub in position properly, the chain kept going slack and I had to adjust the chain tension more often than usual. (the chain was not stretching) One day I snapped one of the bolts trying to make the hub clamp tighter than usual and ended up having to drill the bolt out. After that with one new thicker bolt, it held it's position better. Anyway, the chain was always going very slack, and I would often make the chain tension tighter than spec, to give myself more time between adjustments. I never had any trouble shifting while the chain tension was either too tight or much too loose.
Has anyone taken the clutch plates out of this bike before? I looked through the service manual. It looks like a very complicated and involved process. Many parts, the need to get the order just right, etc. It looks like it's not suitable for a rookie mechanic (me) to do. What do you reckon? The worst part, if I can't complete the clutch service by myself, would be that I'll have to hire a trailer (or find a way to get the bike into a pickup truck and secure it there to carry it to a bike shop for them to sort it out.
if you have a camera phone just take loads of pictures as you disassemble the clutch .either that or look on youtube for somebody doing one.
What I'm really stumped by, is the clutch actually works. I rode the bike when it was cold now. When its idling in neutral, I pull the clutch and shift to first gear with no brakes applied. The bike clonks and leans forward, meaning the front shocks compress slightly but it doesn't roll forward. The bike doesn't try to move forward with the clutch pulled in first gear. Clutch control works fine from a standstill in 1st or 2nd gear. When riding, during acceleration if I pop the clutch quickly the revs quickly climb and then when I release the bike lurches forward (I could clutch wheelie if I had the skill) So I'm not convinced its a clutch problem. Maybe I just need to change the clutch fluid.
It could be something as simple as the gearshift lever position. If the previous owner had altered it (because of rearsets or even big feet) they may not have re-set it when they sold the bike. Worth a look.
Yes I've also read it can be a worn gear shifting spring. Apparently when moving the gear lever that only takes the gearbox halfway onto the next gear. The other half of the movement is apparently moved by a spring, which could be worn or not adjusted correctly? Now I think the clutch is fine. I think its a gearbox issue. To be sure, I'm going to check the colour of the clutch fluid. According to a YouTube clip I watched. Brake fluid becomes dark when its old. If its still in good condition it should be fairly clear.
I have a 63 plate blade with 2k on the clock, I bought the bike with 700 miles on the clock. The gearbox has been awful compared to my R1, I just used to ride my R1 and change gear. The blade I have to make sure I give it a good push up or I hit a false neutral. this can be really bad on bends or overtaking as you have to be nearly at standstill before trying to get it back in gear I have now re drilled and fitted the linkage rod further along the gear lever so I don't have to push it as far, this has improved it a lot. I have tried all sorts of lever positions and chain tensions, new oil etc, I am hoping it might run in a bit. It does spoil the bike for me
