Guys, seem to have hit a bit of a brick wall regards bleeding Danny's SP ABS braking system. I'm trying to complete the front valve unit bleed process ala this guide http://www.expandingknowledge.com/Je...r_Bleeding.pdf page 6 (says 1-5) from top of the document. Fuses out, manage to set the system into air bleed activation mode, single flash of the ABS light. I bleed the front valve, then press the rear brake pedal. The slow flashing of the ABS light goes a little faster, but still seems to flash once. Press the rear brake a second time the ABS light then flashes twice (as technically supposed to) although there does seem to be a step change in the light flashing once speed before this point. Step 4 (page 3-5) is where Im sticking. I apply the rear brake - pull the front lever and release rear, then re-apply rear but CANNOT get the ABS light to go from 2 flashes to 3 flashes onwards.. tried resetting the ABS system with jumper out about 5-6 times and repeating the process but cannot get the ABS light to flash 3 times or more... Any tips as to where Im going wrong? The thread where all the good info is: http://1000rr.co.uk/maintenance/10733.htm
OK.. just found Slick's own version of the manual.. away to read this.. http://1000rr.co.uk/mods-upgrades-accessories-products/21657.htm
Treat the front and rear modulators and valve units as separate systems, if your doing anything to do with bleeding the rear system use the rear brake lever to put the system into bleed mode. If your dealing with the front system use the front brake lever to put the system into bleed mode, and which ever system you are doing only use that lever to put the system into the next stages of bleeding! This thread may help you in your quest too. If you need any extra help give me a shout.
Abs is a great bit of kit when it works right and has saved my arse on my little f650gs but sound like this is a right pain in the arse to do! Good luck with it gilesy
can't take credit for that, its Swiss' work! Not sure if it is true, but very recently PDQ told me the procedure for 12 on bikes changed slightly and you really have to pull on the front lever to activate the step?? They said they ended up bending the lever due to the amount of force applied!
This is exactly the reason I ain't attempting to do mine myself. Mine's off to the Honda dealer in a couple of weeks. Kudos to you tho fella - braver than me! Good Luck!
Kev, can you keep me posted please with regard to brake bleeding, going to do mine at the weekend. What did you use for a jumper wire, got a picture or should i just use a solid core house electrical cable? ps Your Private Mailbox is full
Wouldn't bank on ya local Honda Dealer being an expert! My local Dealer (Crewe Honda) took 2 days over it and had to ring Honda's Tech Support a few times at Head Office!
Crewe Honda is my local dealer too When I asked them last year, the guy said he'd got the labour down to 2 hours.... Should I be looking elsewhere then?
They probably have now they've practiced on my Bike! It was September 2013 they had a crack at mine so they're probably up to speed now! I'm just glad it was done under warranty!
Kev have checked my service manual and it appears the post about adding a lot of lever pressure is correct. I'll give you a copy of my .pdf if you want it. I'm going to Subsea Expo tomorrow in BoD if you are going. Let me know.
Just to add to what Shiny said the sequence you have there is not right. if you are doing the front valve the sequence to get from 2 to 3 blinks is Squeeze & hold the Front Brake Lever (Do not release) Apply & Release the Rear Brake Peddle (should start to blink3 times at this point) Release the Front Brake Lever
Same shit again tonight.. this SP will not go from 2 to 3 blinks. There is a distinct change from a slow blink to a fast blink between the front unit bleed and trying to go to 2 blinks.. IE is the slow single blink then faster single blink the new 3 blinks haha... Video coming soon...
Does the ecu actually go into bleed mode for either front or rear systems? We had issues with our ecu not allowing the thing to go into bleed mode it would just sit blinking away the fault code 2-3 (1 long....1 long.....2 short fast giving code 2-3) which was ecu faulty error code from outside source over voltage think it was.....we did notice the code would flash the code 2-3 after about miby 10 secs even if we do nothing bar turn on ign, this 10s is pretty much the same time it took for us to try and put the bike in bleed mode without it actually ever allowing it to go into bleed mode. There is a distinct motor noise when the bike does actually enable bleed mode along with the dash led as visible reference.