For those of you interested in my ABS saga...I had to leave my blade with Doble M/C on Saturday as they stated it was 'dangerous to ride' which I knew thats why i took it. Well today they called me after speaking to their head technician and Mr Honda. They told me it was air in the system. They said that Honda has had 3-4 (which probaly means hundred) cases. and that if bled the honda way (which involves brake fluid under airline pressure apparently) it will cure the problem. I asked how I could do it for myself if it happens again.....I was told it shouldn't, but it is not an easy job and at least 2 hours and you need to 'drop' the exhaust! If i was going to buy again I would buy non ABS just for DIY maintenance reasons. Although when I said this, I was told that you wont have a choice soon as Honda are making most/all their models ABS-C standard, such as the CBR600 is now.
Not sure if this tale is related but a few months ago I was playing the mechanic and was replacing the pads although they were fine and also decided to clean the little pistons in the calliper s .So I decided to give the lever just a small squeeze to bring them out tortoise head style but of course one of them nearly popped out as some fluid escaped ,so I though that's it game over anyhow I quickly but it all back and tried it and it felt ok or no different but to be on the safe side I went over to a mates house and give them some gip on the way and he bled them the old way of lever in open the nut ect and they seemed ok and since then I have done a couple of Wales runs and a bit of arseing about and have had no issues .
Thanks dude It did seem like the end of the world but all in slow motion .Whilst on the subject I am sure I have read on here that someone was cleaning the pistons and popped them out cleaned them and popped them back in .Is this how a mechanic would do it or does all the fluid piss out and then everything needs bleeding .I don't think I will mess again but just like The Firebloke i am curious .
I use two slides of metal or two very worn pads between the pistons, Pump the brake lightly until about 2-3mm of Clean piston shows below the usual scum line. Clean with non abrasive claner and say a toothbrush Then use a large flat head screwdriver between the Metal slips to lever the pistons back into position. Have removed pistons completely on a first generation R1 as they were really badly corroded but this isnt Something you want to do as its not too good for the Seals.
Sorry; that was a test. I keep getting logged out & loosing my post. I think the long term maintenance issues will become a very hot topic soon as bikes are due fluid changes (every 2-years) & the rubber lines get past their best. I have had problems with cabs & currently have the bike on the ramp for a service; I have also spent some time learning what I can about the cabs system. I have already fitted a bar mounted switch which allows me to turn the cabs off/on at will; Its just a toggle switch fitted between the cabs fuse & the cabs ecu. When I turn it off, I have normal (ish) brakes. This doesn't put the cabs into fault mode, it just powers down/up as with the ignition. I'm going to replace the fluid tonight. I will simply put the new liquid through without letting the resovoirs run empty & with the ignition on; two refills per caliper is about the going rate. The rear is not mechanically linked, just electronically, so that will be done in the same way. If this doesn't work, I have the Honda method (all 20 or so pages). Its interesting stuff. If all else fails, its very easy to convert these brakes to a standard setup.
I would love to see those 20 pages of Honda method! I have just retrieved my bike from Doble Motorcycles after they have bled/sorted the system Honda style, they say you have to drop the exhaust as part of the abs is behind the headers!? teh brakes do seem pretty good now and in the 60 mile journey back in shitty conditions no abs faults or problems. I do have a question for you ABS owners though? Since it has been sorted I can hear a ticking style noise from the front when I brake hard-ish (you got to test them havnt you?) not for long but happens every time. Is this normal or is something wrong as it never did this before? thanx
not sure if this is the same thing but see ABS bleed procedures in this link. http://www.expandingknowledge.com/J...ABS/Maintenance/Combined_ABS_Air_Bleeding.pdf Bled the MC and callipers with a vacuum pump no problem but the ABS side looks like a PITA!
No! dont say no ticking, I didnt think it did it before, I just tried to do it with my lid off and it sounds more like a switching ticking if that make sense, not for long few ticks at most! Cant believe that something is wrong, the guys at Dobles seemed really knowledgable and real helpful. not sure what to do, think ill try them over the next few days and see. any other comments from abs owners are real welcome....please say yours ticks, lol
are you hearing a really fast ticking/clicking sound from the front caliper? pretty quiet but still audible? if so all my blades RR6 RR10 & RR12 have all made this noise... the latter 2 are C-ABS
