Well guys I've been harping on about Silkolene Pro4 10w30 Energy for a couple of years now! Saying it was the best thing since sliced bread! Well I thot I would try something different so a stuck some Putolene 10w30 semi in back in March and run it for a few hundred miles and it was actually quite good and after trying Castrol Power 1 previously which I thot it was total shite! I done an oil change at the weekend with Silkolene back in and it's by far the best oil I've ever used!!.. Bar none!!.. End of. Immediately the bike is smoother, livelier and the gears almost change themselves! It's like a quickshifter in a bottle! And it is like it unleashes extra power Fab! Fab! Fab! Castrol made the bike vibey,gear change was notchy and just made the feel it rough! Putolene was cheap and cheerful £20 of eBay for 4 litres it was smooth enough and the gear change was ok but something was missing like it dulled the performance a tad I wouldn't say it made I sluggish but get my drift but it is better than Castrol I.M.O! Well there concludes my findings Join me next time to see if Scotch mist is better than air for you tyres And how to stop other forum members blowing smoke up your arse! Till next time!!...
have you tried Motul - 300V 10W-40 4T Factory Line? 100% Synthetic double ester oil 4-stroke competition lubricant Developed for the leading factory teams Lower friction for increased power Exceptional film strength Perfect for oil wet clutches
Hey Simon you forgot to say "This isn't just any engine oil with it's double ester lubrication perfect for those who have wet clutches" in a seductive M&S voice No I've not tried it
Always used castrol power racing in my old blade and new . But my race bike I couldn't find neutral thought or was engine out thought leave it until send of season my local bike garage who sponsors me gives me Silkolene comp 4 thought night aswell use it . No problems with neutral since so well happy . He actually said Fuchs/Silkolene said there is no difference between pro and comp just the price ? I might try it in the blade next service but never had a problem with castrol
this one then? not cheap is it... Want to change mine this month so open to suggestions. Dont want to spend more than £30 ideally.. Used Catrol before but fancy a change as gear change is clungy SILKOLENE PRO 4 ENERGY 10W-30 FULLY SYNTHETIC MOTORCYCLE ENGINE OIL 4L | eBay
Yeah that's the one I get this one free Look at this on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=181178009870 Silkolene Comp 4 20W-50 XP 4-Stroke Motorcycle 20W50 Engine Oil 4T 4 Litres 4L
Yeah that's the one mate! It is a bit pricey but I suppose you get what you pay for! I mean for the price of night on the lash or a meal out which you poo & wee out next mornin it's actually good value and small price to pay to have your baby purr like a kitten
I've use comp in my wee bike CB1 and it's excellent and I use original Pro4 in my CBR6 excellent again with instant difference in gear change in both bikes! When I bought my Blade it had just been serviced and had 10w40 pro4 just put in it which felt great then I put Power 1 in it gear change when notchy and felt more vibration through the whole bike! My first thought was that must be the bike loosening up but next service I put Pro4 10w30 Energy in and hey presto the Blade felt new again she felt smoother,faster and gear change transformed
I used pro4 myself and then Power 1 you def can tell gearbox is more clunky.... A oil change is on the cards back to silkolene....
Hello guys, just wanna jump in here... I've always used castrol power 1.... I'm due an oil change so gonna try pro 4, I'll keep you's informed
I'm the same Andrew, I've always thought it was great until I've read a few posts, I'm gonna give pro4 a go since I've noticed the gear changes are very notchy
There are two sorts I've seen, energy as posted and a none energy slightly cheaper? Worth spending the extra for energy?
I'll try and remember this thread for the next time I change my own oil. Bearing (lol) in mind, next time will be the first time.
They're very similar but the energy is supposed improve mpg and performance slightly it has a low drag formulation! I'm sort of (in for a penny in for a pound) so I tend to buy top spec one but saying that mate it's a personal thing but if it's only a fiver or so difference then I'd go for the best
...from the fat little booklet (Honda Owner's Manual) page 101 (I know, how funny!): Do not use API SH or higher oils displaying a circular API "energy conserving" service label on the container. They may affect lubrication and clutch performance. I guess, in simple terms; oils promising improved mpg may contain additives which may kill your clutch; friction plates cannot handle some additives well, so the same stuff which reduces friction between moving parts of the engine may reduce friction of the clutch plates; the extra slip with every clutch operation may cause premature wear and failure. (I became a victim of my good intentions with Slick 50 many years ago). Besides, Silkolene PRO 4 and COMP 4 clearly ARE DIFFERENT- from Fuchs' web site and brochure, the specs are: COMP 4: Specified section 'RIDE' - API SL ; JASO MA2 PRO 4: Specified section 'OFF-ROAD' - API SG, SH, SJ & SL ; CCMC G4 ; JASO MA2 Albeit- there is the PRO R oil, which Fuchs say about in their brochure: Specially researched friction modifier chemistry relies upon electrostatic adhesion to attack friction at crucial points in valve and power train systems - two sources of hidden power which give that vital edge in acceleration and full throttle output. I guess, those who have the money to race don't need to care much whether they have to renew their clutch every year As my Blade clearly is a road bike not an off-road bike (and hopefully this will be true for a loooong time ) and I want my clutch to stay tuned for a few years- COMP 4 will be my choice for the next change.
I've just purchased the none energy version today.. Will let you know how I find it Going from the semi castrol power 1
Put Silkolene COMP4 10W30 in yesterday- not ridden it yet, but noticed that first gear went in with half the CLONK it usually makes when cold- promising! As I only bought the bike some 3 months ago I don't know what oil she had in- all I can say- MAN, it was thin like water as it came out and no different after it had cooled down (pouring it in a canister for disposal at the local recycling centre)! i guess it must have lost much of its viscosity (as we know oils usually change their viscosity towards thinner as the longer molecule chains get broken down by heat and mechanically) and the difference in viscosity was obvious. Glad I changed it Will take her for a good ride tomorrow, we'll see.
