Gear lever adjustment

Probably a dumb question but I can't work it out I want to lower the gear lever when ever I go down through the box I have to lift my foot of the foot peg to change down there doesn't seem to be much adjustment I could adjust it slightly on the rod but any more than about 2-3 mm and it would be in first gear Or do I have to go down the rearset route to do it properly

 

The adjustment of the rod will only affect the position of the lever, it won't put it into gear

 

Cant you adjust it on the gear leaver drop it down a few teeth?

 

Dont alter the setting on the splines, you reduce the effective length of the knuckle.

 

I was going to try what leeroy said move the lever on the spline but your saying not to do it is that right

 

Thats right, mr Honda puts a mark on the spline for a reason, adjust the lever on the rod

 

yep... Adjusting it means more effort required to change gear and more stress on output shaft which already flexes ...

 

you need a smaller rod.. Go maybe 5mm shorter . Altering the spline is fine providing you keep it as near to Parrel as you can with the gear lever

Ideally they want to sit about 3 o clock

 

You can move it round by one spline, I've done it on a couple of bikes, it makes a noticeable difference, more than that then it can cause problems. But try to get your adjustment on the rod. (I assume were talking about the bottom lever and not the top lever which connects to the gearbox shaft).

I had to shorten the rod when I fitted my Gilles rear sets otherwise the small 'top' lever would have been at about 1 or 2 o'clock 'or' my gear lever would have been way too low. I had to get the lever position correct first then shorten the rod to get the top lever at about 3 o'clock You might get the drift from the pictures.

 

From that pic you should be able to put the lever in the correct position on the spline and lengthen the rod to achieve the same set up

 

The lever (top) is in the correct position on the spline. The fulcrum/leverage points are close to the original (see original set up picture). As I'm sure you know it's not the exact position of the lever but where the rod acts upon the lever. I don't get your 'lengthen the rod' thing? Poss' I misunderstand you?

First job was to get the correct footrest/gear lever positions. The position of those are as near the original (which I was happy with) as I could get, in fact I traced and measured the original positions to within 2mm (anal). I'd have liked the footrest a touch lower but that's its lowest position so that's that. The gear lever is then positioned to give a not too high/low position which is where it is.

After that I had to get as near the optimal/original leverage position on the top lever which meant I had to 'shorten' the (two piece) lever to achieve this. I'd have got closer but the rod can't be shortened any more than it is.

 

Sorry guys i never knew dropping it 2-3 teeth would cause stress or even damage i have always done this on my motocross bike when i changed my boots and never had any problems but i guess you learn something new every day

 

It wouldn't necessarily cause stress and damage. Depends on the particular layout of the bike/gearbox and where the levers/rods (if there is a rod) are positioned and how far you rotate any lever from standard.

Rotating a lever a spline (maybe two) away from standard isn't necessarily a big deal. Got a pic' of any bike you've done this on ?

 

If you have done it on an mx bike it wont make any difference, they dont have a linkage so wont suffer from the variable leverage rates.
Mike, it just looks like you could rotate the top lever on the spline anti clock by one tooth so the split lines up with the dot, by so doing you would need to lengthen the rod to achieve the same gear lever position

 

I see what you mean now mate but this wouldn't make any difference, in fact it would be (slightly) less efficient. The rod would be acting upon the lever at a less effective angle. It would also reduce (very slightly, but still enough to change the gear) the amount of lever travel given by the rod.

Unless I read you wrong you're obsessing a bit too much on having the lever joint exactly on the dot when the main thing is to have the rod acting upon the lever at as close to a right angle as poss' regardless of the position of the lever, which it is.

 

I was trying to agree but am on a tablet with sausage fingers...doh

Managed to undo it though

 

You wouldn't get much sense out of me now anyway, the beers in the fridge have been calling me and I've succumbed.

I love Leffe.