The technician who MOT'd my blade commented that he thought the exhaust valve was seized. He went on to say it would cost many hundreds of pounds to fix (new valve, and potentially new servo) and that if it were his bike, he wouldn't worry about it. I'm a bit puzzled by this, coz I thought that a warning light should come on if it were seized... is that right? I understand that the valve does little more than tone down the noise at low RPM, so is he right that its not worth fixing?
Not sure about the performance? But your right the flap opens on +4000rpm, which i am lead to understand is purelyvfor noise abatement? Have you tried to disconnect the servo cable? You would only get a warning light if when the cable is disconnected and the servo had not been reset to its normal working position. Try disconnecting it, and have a fiddle with the flap to see if it can be dropped down. Nothing to lose trying?
You say that, but I am prone to the occasional almighty cock-up!!! So, not necessarily true that a knackered valve will light up a warning then... thats a relief of sorts. Will have a little look on the weekend, but to be honest, a new exhaust is on the horizon, so not going to waste too much time on it.
Lol Arthur, I just went into the garage for a smoke, thought I'd take a closer look, I've got my flap permanently open, Bats sorted it out for me. I was just having another "fiddle with my Flap " and I'm like sticking a screwdriver in it, and I said to Gill, well, you learn something new the flap itself is magnetic, how good is that. I was just about to come rushing in to post my "news" and earn serious cudos on this thread, when Gill stuck the screwdriver to my tool box, and with a hint of sarcasm she said, oooo look, your tool box is magnetic too. Always wondered what the black tip on the end of the screwdriver was. I blame it on the night shifts. It's my morning. Never good on a morning
Lol, oh the old sticky screwdriver gag.... You need one of these mate WERA TOOLS SCREWDRIVER MAGENTISER & DE-MAGNETISER TOOL | eBay And I'd rather not know what you stick in your flap....lol
Your "technician" / mechanic is bullshitting you mate. The valve just needs exercising and probably a de-coke. Ideally cut it out of the exhaust system and replace it with a length of tube!!!
know the feeling, thats why I am happy enough not to work in the engineering trade anymore...no more long late night shifts.
Just slightly related.... I disconnected the exhaust flapper on my 2010 to make it a little louder below 4K; which it does. I didn't notice any change to the fueling etc. After about 5 months I reconnected it (just fiddling really) & discovered it was siezed in the open position. After much poking & squirting with WD40 it freed up & seemed to work fine. On the next ride, the fueling didn't feel right; the bike was lurching out of corners. Some more fiddling & I noted the valve wasn't opening when it should (4K); it did eventually open but at higher revs (hence the lurching); it was sticking. In the end I just disconnected it again & the bike runs fine. It does seem however that making them immobile for a time cause them to sieze.
Would have thought that the valve opens and closes everytime you switch the ignition on, but I don't know for sure. It is in a very hostile environment, high temperature , noxious gases and bits of carbon are bound to cause some problems eventually. Best to make sure you rev the bike regularly and make sure it moves at least once a week or preferably jam the bastard thing wide open and disconnect the cables!!!
I have heard conflicting reports about whether it gets opened/closed when you switch on the ignition... would be great to know for sure...... Arthur?!?!
It does a cleaning cycle as far as I remember BUT I would have to check so hate to say I'm not 100% sure tbh...not much help.
Bloody hell that was quick Do you just sit around all day waiting to be called into action, like some sort of motorcycling batman?!? If I had mentioned your name 3 times, would you have materialised beside me, spanners at the ready?!?
Decatted a Gixxer 600 K8 two weeks ago. Cut the SET valve and cat off with an angle grinder, welded a connector to the 4 into 1, made a linkpipe and connected it to a Yoshimura silencer. Runs and sounds lovely now, WITHOUT A POWER COMMANDER. No hesitation or surge when the SET valve opens, just constant increase in power and speed.
