Having convinced myself that my exhaust valve isnt working correctly, I have acquired a rather spanking Akrapovic can to replace the stock exhaust... I have a few questions! Having removed the exhaust valve servo, I can get at the pulley for the valve on the exhaust, and it turns nice and freely through 90 degrees, and springs back... so it seems there's actually nothing wrong with the valve itself... sound like a fair conclusion?!? Following on, am I right in thinking that when I turn the ignition, the servo motor should turn through 90 degrees, and back again... is that right? Well, it isnt... it merely twitches. Finally, removing the servo motor leaves a bloody great hole in the undertray... I fear crap from the road will merrily spray up there into the battery compartment... is there anything I can neatly fill it with, or have I no choice but to refit the servo motor to plug the hole? Oh, and one more... once I've removed the standard exhaust and its shielding, I have been told to line the underside of the undertray with heat-resistant lining/tape... is that right? If so, what sort of product? Sorry for all the questions, first time I've replaced an exhaust on an underseat-equipped bike.
Can't help with the whole servo, cable, turny thing, but just ditch the heat shield and you don't need no reflective tape. While you're on the weight loss diet, ditch the PAIR system and do the flapper mod, saves another little bit of weight. All you need to do is buy blanking plates for the head.
Cheers fella... but I have to wonder why would Honda have fitted heat protection if it aint needed? Makes me think it would be prudent to put some kind of heat protection back on ?!?!? And to be honest, its not really a weight-saving exercise, although the 2.5kg of high-up weight lost is nice side effect It all came about coz when I had the bike serviced the mechanic mentioned that he didnt think the exhaust valve was opening/closing correctly. I then dug into the service history and Taz confirmed that before the bike had its run-in service, the owner bought it to them TWICE to have the exhaust valve fixed under warranty... so I thought thats a great excuse to fit a nice shiny Akra!!! Progress update... I have removed all that needs to be removed, and am now noting down all the bits & bobs I need to have ready to fit the Akra. The end of the Cat, that now needs to join onto my Akra link-pipe, has some form of silver ring round it... see pic: I think I need to scrape this off as the link pipe needs to overlap by about 25mm, and thers's only 8mm of pipe showing... can anyone confirm? Then, how do I ensure a perfect seal between the Cat and the new link pipe? For info, this is the mating end of the new link pipe: Cheers all!!!
Measure the outside diameter of the linkpipe and the inside diameter of the silencer. If they are nearly the same, you don't need a gasket( which is what the silver thingy is). If the gap is too big, you need a gasket or an adaptor piece. I can make you an adaptor! If the valve is normally open, that's all you need. I have just removed the contents of the cat with a drill and chisel to make the exhaust more free flowing. You can do this if you have a Power Comander.
Cheers Megawatt... new link pipe fits VERY snuggly over the end of the Cat pipe, so no gasket needed... will scrape it off then. Regarding my earlier question about the hole left in the undertray... ignore it, me being thick... the hole is actually plugged by the "casing" which houses the locking mechanism for the pillion seat. Would still like to know if my exhaust servo is faulty though... I know it makes no odds now, but just for curiosity sakes... should it turn when I switch on the ignition?!?
Cheers Viper... so to test it I'd have to plug it in and rev to see if it opens... cant be arsed with that, its all largely academic anyway, unless I need to refit the OE exhaust when I come to sell. Anyone got any other opinions about using heat-proof tape on the undertray? I'm sure someone from this forum told me I should... and offered to point me in the direction of a good product... gonna have to use that godforsaken search tool now
To be honest Dave, that is what I am hoping to avoid. The heatshield protrudes beyond the lights, and you have to fit that silly little black plastic trim at then end... which in turn looks silly coz the plastic that's supposed to join to it has been removed with the old number plate hanger.
I can see that you still have the valve in position! Would anybody like a bypass tube instead? ie a tube without a valve inside, ie less resistance to flow? Can also remove the contents of the cat if you have one?
yeah i know but im hoping once its sprayed black it wont be too noticeable,and that is the minimalistic look viper!!
Viper... I like that..... although, do you ever melt your boots on that exposed pipe? You'd have to be careful not to wear baggy trousers...... do you use bicycle clips to be safe?!?! I found what I was after... a member called "ray" who suggested a sticky-back heatshield material and a handy template in this post...... I've PM'd him for more details.
The heat shielding isn't really needed (ie, the plastics will not melt). It might come in handy to prevent cooking your arse and/or passenger though I removed mine when fitting a Ti exhaust and it was fine.
heatshield is pointless just more weight to lug round ditch it never had a problem without mine, if you sticking bits of yourself in the gap your riding pretty funny . servo is pointless too now you've got the akra so don't worry about it. By the way did anybody see the full Leo Vince system on ebay was'nt a bad deal at 499 i thought.
