Gentlepersons 2011 HRC owner, done pipe, started moding.... Now hooked ASV levers, Gilles rearsets, Gilles chain adjusters blah blah! Carbon wrap results awaiting... Please help. I know you people can advise quicker than I can google CBR1000rr Currently on std C&S and want to go gold chain with poss Renthal rear sprocket, but I want to change gearing to lose revs in top and safe revs & ear-drums whilst clocking some miles (sorry if you've been asked mega times) Could you please suggest a comfortable gearing Fr & Rr? (not bothered about individual gear mph results etc) Looking to spend on quality gold chain & anodised sprockets. Confused on number of teeth, number of chain links & quality supplier/s. Appreciate your comments. Time saved spent on seeing where next to mod / spend more £ n ride more smiles Thanks
Tsubaski x-ring gold chain, and renthal sprockets get my vote all day long. As for gearing. It depends if you want better acceleration or not. Either way it costs much the same when replacing for new.
Thanks Colin - really after more mph per noise, if that relates? Gear down? Oops - for those who are wondering: the 2011 HRC is the good looking fast one! (Doh. Mit've done it now!...)
Easiest way to down gear is to go 1 tooth down on the front. It's also the cheapest. This will give you more punch out of the corners, but will lose you some top speed. Downside to down gearing though is that you will get less MPG (not that that matters too much).
Think I'm getting this.. So down on the front sprocket. DID X-ring chain. Gold That mean need to go up on rear? Compensate chain links? Sod the mpg, clock says I've lost 7 mpg since changing tailpipe & disconnecting pipe diode thingy! Sod top speed. Banned at 96 mph right? Knod at oncoming riders if road all clear behind. Keep adding fuel, ignoring mpg. Gain mph per revs n less eardrum failure = more happy miles Live fast, die long. Go oblongue?!
1 down on front wont effect your chain length,you could go up approx 3 on rear before you need more links. but,let me understand you,you want to go faster but at lower revs?,as in not screaming it up high in the rev range,then you want to add teeth at front,or take away at the rear. lower front/higher rear=quicker acceleration,less top end,quicker through the rev range. and for reference (roughly) going -1 on the front is equal to +3 on the rear. higher front/lower rear=higher speeds in each gear,slower acceleration,slower through the rev range feels more torquey than pull your arms off.
Faster top speed equals bigger front and/or smaller rear, more MPG , and speedo healer. Faster acceleration equals smaller front and/or larger rear, lower MPG, more prone to wheelies and floating front wheel, and speedo healer. 3 up at rear approx equals 1 down on front. .Too small at front equals more chain wear and possible swingarm slipper damage. Too big on rear equals longer chain, possible chainguard interference.
? Nobody lengthens the gearing on these bikes (except for top speed attempts maybe), it's already too tall IMO.
OP - you can experiment with theoretical changes here:- Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator
Thanks for the great advice as always guys. As I need to change the front sprocket (new chain) I'm going to try the following: +1 on the front & -2 on rear rear. Gold DID X-ring chain with Renthal sprockets. I'm hoping this will be noticeable and stop me searching for that extra gear that's not there. Don't get me wrong, I love the 'stock' blade but with a planned trip coming up I thought I try lose some revs and noise (am I making sense or are you thinking 'pratt - go buy a GS?!) O' No - speedo healer?.... Would this be an expensive bit of electronic gizmo I must now buy for changing gearing from stock?
Sorry JM1, page not refreshed before I responded & missed your posts So, am I the only one searching for additional gears? I consider myself a capable fast-sh rider and enjoy the front end popping, adding acceleration would see me banned in no time at all as the evil in me could not resist temptation, however, for long mileage trips am I wrong to add to the gear? I'm good at taking critism! Thanks
Yes Slick , a hard anodised Renthal 44 tooth. With a 15T front, my RRW will skim the front wheel in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Clocked 155mph genuine as well, with about 115BHP.
You've main my mind up, gonna use this combo. I was always a little concerned about the longevity of alloy sprockets, but for me 25k is about 2 years worth. Stupid question, if you do run a alloy rear sprocket should the front follow suit?
Not at all mate its just a bit unusual, but theres no reason not to try it out. Easy to resolve if you dont like it
No mate. Always hard steel on the front. The front sprocket gets most of the abuse. Had 25K outta the last DID chain. This rear sprocket has done 10K and still in good nick. Think alloy rear is better for the chain as well. Go for it. I use Muc Off dry PTFE lube on my chain. Every 200 miles.
Ok I've taken the plunge, completely gone the opposite to how I initially intended when started this thread and gone for: 15/44 Renthal sprockets with Renthal RR4 chain - 520 conversion Megawatt swayed me regarding the acceleration, sodding the mpg, speedo reading & rev noise whilst touring; I've always got the standard kit to revert back to.... Just one thing please before I fit. If I cut my chain to suit 15/44 & not find it comfortable, would it be too late regarding chain length if I wanted to try 16/44? It would be an expensive experiment considering I've gone 520 too. Thanks
