The screw for the baffle is underneath the rubber bung, it's in between the outer carbon sleeve and stainless inner.
I think the problem was mine was throwing fault codes and turning off the ABS. So Mr Honda said that the ENTIRE system needed to be bled, including the unit hidden behind the exhaust headers! So the exhaust apparently has to be dropped to gain access (sounds a nightmare tbh) Dont worry about me being stung as it was all under warranty and didnt cost a sausage. phew! definately the need for a youtube vid on CBR1000rr brakes (abs + standard)
You have to drill through yourself my baffle although the proper yoshi one would not go down the exhaust and I had to file a bit of one side down do it so once the baffle is in place you can't see the filed bit.The other thing to do is put a little drop of silicone sealant around the rubber bung as they do disappear .Ps I loosed the little bolt down between the inner and outer skin of the can and although you can shake it lose you have to take the can back off to hold it up .Bugger!
thanks Giv, i was hoping not to have to drill the bugger! I know what you mean about the yoshi baffle - v v tight... back to the workshop!
Yep - that's exactly what happened with mine. Had the bolt on the end of an allan key, trying to locate the hole to fix the baffle in for MOT and dink!! of it went between the outer and inner. It's still in there today. So I just use a bolt with nuts acting as spacers and I can tighten it from outside the can - only a temporary measure of course the baffle comes straight out after MOT.
I have changed the fluid on my abs (this week in fact). So long as you don't inroduce air by letting the resovoirs run empty or by just being rubbish with a spanner, its straight forward & takes about 30 mins with a spare pair of hands. I did the rear first, then the front calipers, then the MC. I didn't need to touch the modulator or pump & I didn't put the bike into "bleed mode", I just kept the ignition on throughout the process. A good guide is to run two resovoirs worth of fluid through each caliper. If changing lines of other parts I imagine it may be a little more problematic, but not rocket science. I'm also not aware of a part beind the headers; that would be just stupid because of the heat. The "bleed manual" doesn't mention removing the exhaust either. As an aside, whilst removing my fairings for the first time (which takes a little care & patience), I was amazed at the number of mullered fasteners & damaged tabs; this is a bike which has only be previously serviced by a main dealer! I'll continue to do my own thanks.
Why does the ignition need to be on? Bled the brakes the other week and a little worried coz i missed this bit out
Don't worry Slick; I'm sure yours will be ok. I left the ignition on just in case the actuators in the modulator & pump needed to be in an open position; just a theory pal based on the manual also specifying the ignition should be on - abs models only.
Kinnell! Ya can see why some dealers make a mess of this, due probably to being lazy twats and missing bits out!
