Fri & Saturday Quick write up of a weeks trip last year as know a few are looking to go to similar area In June 2012 the Queens Jubilee weekend gave a chance for a week in the Alps using just 3 days holiday - plan was to get over Channel using the tunnel Friday evening and head into France for an hour Friday Route Manchester, UK to Cambrai, France - Google Maps Friday afternoon traffic was bad due to 'holiday traffic' with M25 gridlocked almost all way from M1 to Dartford crossing - once over that even motorway to tunnel was heavy but we got on a shuttle at about 19:00 Waiting for shuttle: - 315 miles to tunnel from Manchester This got us to France for 20:30 - we then had a ride of just about 90 miles to Cambrai and a first night in the Ibis - few holiday beers to unwind and all is good - Calais is a nightmare to stay at due to all the refugees who live in the area trying to get over water - def worth getting away Route to Ibis Saturday route Rue de Noyon, Cambrai, France to Thonon-les-Bains, France - Google Maps Saturday was dry and bright so navigated via D roads down to S.Dizier, Dole, Gray then only Poligny where temperature had really risen compared to UK. Roads had been good with few hold ups but progress on D roads is always slower Made small mistake not to combine fuel / toilet / drink stops into one which slowed progress a bit. At Poligny it was either motorway towards Geneva then onto campsite on lake shore, or head over Jura mountains to skirt Geneva and on - on the map the Jura option looks great, but time was ticking on and its quite challenging roads. Looking down to Lake Geneva from Jura mountains Once into Geneva big problem - no Swiss motorway pass = big risk to use them and not worth buying for 10km so took road through Geneva by lake shore Saturday evening = traffic nightmare, took ages but finally past that to campsite. This was my first bike trip with tent and should have made sure we got to campsite earlier - bit of problem finding it but it was a great spot - good food / bar on site.
Sunday Sunday route (think this is 95% correct, was a while ago) http://goo.gl/maps/hfd1f Sunday started a bit damp but soon on road after good breakfast and headed up onto 'Route Des Grand Alps' which was to take us down to Monacco. Called in at a few ski resorts and all was good but route not quite as well signed as it should be - started to head to Chamonix but weather was bad so no point so headed to Bourg St Maurice for next night. Hit a load of rain but stopped for coffee in decent little mountain town to warm up - few navigational errors (no sat nav just map) but got into Bourg via some high passes in good spirts and rain stopped to put tents up. Spoke with a group of 4 UK bikers who rather than take 4 small tents each they brought 1 large tent with lounge and even had a fan heater, chairs etc. - good set up but well organised group. Bourg St.Mourice - good town to have as a base Trip filth Standard hugger too small really Parked up for breakfast I'm lovin' it - poshest McDonalds I've been in (in terms of building materials) Many routes - but one I wanted to take was closed (Col D' Iserain) More to follow
Monday Monday route http://goo.gl/maps/TnmLd Monday started dry then hit rain again going up first pass - mate had a bit of a sense of humour failure but assured him 'once over this pass it will be fine' - few photos at top then down to main road where as is so typical we hit a tarmac machine as the pass was for the TOur De fRance - but the weather changed like a switch and next moment we are in a bight sunshine having a coffee sat outside. Another pass over to main road to head south - but this pass was lovely - not nadgery and slow but good flowing one: Views were stunning Looked at map and I suggested we went up Alpe D'uze pass for lunch - same idea about 3,000 Dutch cyclists also had so it was busy, but weirdly good fun - have video just not edited it yet... From then it should have been an easy run down to Castellane to use as base for 3 nights to make it less hectic - however huge land side shut road so 2.5 hours waiting for it to be cleared enough to use old tunnel to get round debris - sat nav on phone said 90 miles so thought that's fine - however it was set to 'airplane' mode = as crow flies! While waiting I nipped to the top of the Col Du Galibier - amazing views and really warm still but you can tell its high up = knackered! This is the debris Tunnel they had to open Worse places to sit and wait for a road to open But roads were great, weather great but took ages longer than expected (common theme here...) Latched onto local lad on R1 for part of Route Grand Alps towards Castellane which was cracking - great progress. Road was first rate, I got second wind and really enjoyed it. Found campsite on spec near town centre and had just enough time to pitch tents and get food. More to follow
Tuesday Tuesday route http://goo.gl/maps/QQ8jU Next day bikes needed a clean after the sludge of road closure previous day - found cracking route / pass down towards Barcelonette then went up the highest pass in Europe - La Bonnette Heading up to La Bonnette View from top Heading down from pass then dropped down towards Nice as Monacco was target for a coffee in the harbour. Blasting down road I spied a Porsche which got past my mate, thought 'I'm not having that pass me' so 'made progress' and had a good blat with car, both making swift progress. Stopped at lights and driver dropped window for a chat - turns out it was Mark Renshaw, profesional cyclist training for Tour De France - we then left him behind in traffic. Heat was massive so need to cool down in a McDonalds - can see why so few southern European bikers wear full leathers - its too dam hot! Blasted into Monacco which I'd never been to - its hectic but also good fun on a bike blasting through tunnels - again have video just done nothing with it. If you need to ask how much to fill your boat, you can't afford it....
Wednesday Wednesday Route http://goo.gl/maps/msdM0 Next day was more chilled out - lazy start and did 'Gorge Verdun' or French Grand Canyon then back in good time to Castellane to climb up to the Church which overlooks town - amazing views. Rock in town with Church just visible Gorge Verdun (from far side) Castellane from Church - really good sized town as a base - not too large to feel unsafe, large supermarket just outside of town if needed, good number of bars / restaurants / etc. Then it was time to head North and pick up Route Napoleon - made it to Dole through huge storm but ended up dry so camped but should have got ibis or similar as rain returned and not great towards end of holiday. Last proper bike day was up via horrendous wind storm up to Ypres for 'last post' - got there for hotel in good time but Friday late afternoon traffic is as bad in Belgium / France as the UK i.e. huge queue.
Thursday Heading home up the Route Napoleon http://goo.gl/maps/aM1nq Roads up to Grenoble really good, deservedly good reputation as perfect biking route From Grenoble bit of Motorway to cover ground towards Geneva, then D road for last couple of hours to Dole - hit bad weather and although it had dried off when we got to DOle should have booked into Ibis we passed on way in. Rained heavily that night, got soaked in town and raining when packing up - no fun. Friday Friday Route http://goo.gl/maps/ap0Kp After soaking night before and riding north stopped for a good break at services -and dried stuff out! Rain soaked car park (by another McDonalds - for cheap fair coffee, free wifi, toilets and somewhere to cool off / dry up its good) Blade looking all moody Ypres is well worth seeing if you have not been - very moving and good way to end trip. Menin Gate About to perform last post Next morning it was mid morning ferry which is much better as it gives you chance for a break even if it is slower - then home in Manchester for mid afternoon. You can almost hear Vera lyn start to sing
Post 7 Costs of trip by taking tent were def. cheaper - it took a while to get into routine with using tents etc. and road closure did not help when I hoped to get to Castellane in good time. Weather wise down South it was scorching, but Alps cold and wet and 1 main pass I've tried to do twice now was still closed, although it opened the end of week while away. The motorail service to / from Nice makes so much sense - there were loads of things I missed and having more time there without the long, tedious and expensive trek down / back through France would help if you are short on time, but many services weekly. On the way down on the Saturday 2 hours of motorway from Cambrai, then D road to Poligny, followed by Motorway past Geneva towards Thonon avoiding Swiss motorways would have been a huge help. You can't change the weather in the mountains and it changes so fast - you just have to hope you pass from rain to sun if you get stuck. The South side of the Alps as you expect is so much warmer than North side it appeared. No idea on full costs of trip, petrol a hefty chunk, campsite fees are around 5 - 7.50 Euro a night - food can be kept cheap by places like MdDonalds, supermarkets for bottles of water, snacks etc. but you are on holiday so enjoy a decent meal - lots of offers of 2 course meal for 10 euro, 3 for 15 type thing but its beer that really racks up spends, but it tastes so much better after a ride out! Maps for final 2 days Thursday Friday Any questions let me know via PM or post below - for a weeks tour its got some really good routes, gives a good base in Castellane - yes I'd change a few things, do things differently but would I do it again ? Like a shot I would, Would I take tent etc. - Yes, now I've got the equipment you will always find somewhere to sleep, and there is the option of a hotel if weather bad / things go wrong. Would I use Blade? If I am honest yes, but I also think a VFR800 would be perfect tool for that type of trip - plenty fast enough, more relaxed seating position. Other bike is Kawasaki Z1000SX - but don't like rack on ABS bike but bet 2nd hand bikes will be good value in a year or so (if not already) If the Col D'Iserain had been open and road not closed by landslide would have been different Monday, but I like the fact the trip changes - that, if anything is a trip I may do in July - Just wish the Alps were that bit closer to home.
Nice write-up Al and awesome pics. Would love to see some pics of Gorge du Verdun as I've heard loads about it but never been there.
Will edit the posts above and add in pics - got loads (as per normal) - also route maps will help folk
Excellent write up & pics, don't know if I could do the camping side of your trip, more of a hotel person but hats off to the 2 of you.
Great write up. Really helpful to see it all laid out like that. I have a route planned similar to this one so now I`m even more excited, looks awesome! Would you advise leathers or textiles mate? Cheers ;-)
Great pics Al. I stayed in that same square in Ypres last year, touring Belgium, France, Germany and Luxembourg with mates. Lovely place! Hotel'd it just round the corner from Man of Gate. I actually have the same pic as one of yours of that cathedral with the bars to the right hand side. Where they serve Homo beer (Chuckle!) Doing it again this year but hope to get to the Alps this time.
Cheers all, will try and add routes this evening. Wonder if we need a 'trip report' section to move these and others to ad they def help folk plan / give then ideas of what areas to see. Re textiles if they are vented then great otherwise you will boil. Ky leathers are vented but was still too hot.
Just added maps and route links to all the first posts so that is this trip report done and dusted with - if I ever edit the video will post something up, but not holding much hope given I've done little / nothing wtih it in 9 months!
Lol - you're not wrong! I've got a good few hours of footage of Drift HD video of the Gorge du Verdon, Castellane, the RN down to Cannes, along the front to Frejus and back through the forests to Lac de Sainte-Croix and Moustiers from a trip in 2011 but just haven't got round to editing it down to something snappy and watchable. I got as far as uploading a single unedited vid of the first thing I took, although the fairings are too thin to mount a camera as the wobble is too intrusive: https://vimeo.com/29281319 Just seeing that blue sky takes me back to riding in the heat with the empty roads and the lure of a cold pint waiting at the end of it. Heaven!
Great TR, Al, and a good advertisement for the joys of riding through France. Cracking photos, as well. Every time I've been past that church in Castellane I thought how good it would be to get a shot from up there so glad you did as can now picture the view! I noticed you even got the burger van in at the Chunnel entrance, too! The hot dogs are excellent for taking onto the train to scoff while under the sea.
Amen on the burger van. Mine's a fried egg, onion and bacon. Top scoff. Though my one didn't make it to the tunnel.
