I had the abs fail on me on my fathers bmw, it near sent me into the middle of a roundabout. I swore never again,im glad now that when I went with the blade I got the non ABS even when everyone told me im mad as the ABS is so much better. working or not I dont think I'll be confident with it.
Reviving an old thread i know, but i reported this to honda back in july last year, they bled the brakes and they worked well for about 30 miles then all of a sudden the fault is back. I have spoken to Honda again today and reported it again and have been told they will get back to me today with a solution. Not very happy with this, a 12k bike should not have this many problems with its brakes! Pete
I am interested in this, I have read many threads here and in the US, it seems some bikes are very problematic, but also that the dealers have very little knowledge other than bleed the brakes, often compounding the issue by going into part change after part change, really just the blind leading the blind. I have had the brake lever go soft when feathering the front brake in traffic, never all the way back to the grip though, I can see how would dent any ones confidence in the system. From my reading of threads I have seen some common issues Bleeding the brakes does not solve anything, unless you already have air in the system. Ultimately changing the front modulator to a 2012 part would appear to fix the issue Keeping the calipers, guides, pins, pistons clean is important. Also very low pad levels are an issue. Now for many on here, they are probably used mostly in good conditions, so crudding up of the calipers is not an issue, for all year riders like myself it is a major problem. Recently after 9 months of faultless operation (2010 bike, bought last year), the ABS light started flashing immediately after the light went out from starting, powering off the ignition cleared it until the next start and same issue. I totally cleaned the calipers (only done 6 weeks before, but they were in a bad state with the recent weather), other than removing the pistons, red rubber grease on the lube the dust seals, (which I have always had issues with sticking in the winter), and my front pads had 1 to 2 mm pad surface left, so replaced them, cleaned the rear caliper and removed and cleaned both ABS sensors. No problems in the last week, but still monitoring. Again this is based on reading many threads, and averaging out what appears common sense and actual fixes, but I cannot state any of what I have done will fix the issue on my bike or anyone elses, I was just not prepared to bung it to a dealer and open my wallet whilst they educated themselves on ABS problems.
Glad I found this thread. After owning my 2010 Abs Blade for 5-6 weeks, and only being able to put any miles on her in the last two, I have found that the brakes feel a little 'spongy' for the first 20mm or so of braking. I am not getting the lever back to the bar as some have reported, but it definitely doesn't feel quite right. The bike only has 1400 miles on now, and I brought it not for the Abs specifically, but because it was a very reasonable price Abs or none Abs. But I am now considering taking the Abs out of the equation by short cutting it, or even ripping it out completely if that's possible? Why would you do that to a £700 optional extra I hear you some of you scream.. Because as I said
Glad I found this thread. After owning my 2010 Abs Blade for 5-6 weeks, and only being able to put any miles on her in the last two, I have found that the brakes feel a little 'spongy' for the first 20mm or so of braking. I am not getting the lever back to the bar as some have reported, but it definitely doesn't feel quite right. The bike only has 1400 miles on now, and I brought it not for the Abs specifically, but because it was a very reasonable price Abs or none Abs. But I am now considering taking the Abs out of the equation by short cutting it, or even ripping it out completely if that's possible? Why would you do that to a £700 optional extra I hear you some of you scream.. Because as I said, being second hand it wasn't 'my' optional extra. I don't have 100% confidence in the system so I think something has to happen. I would much prefer to trust me manually operating the brakes.
Mine is a late 09 blade matey. I'm pestering Honda UK as this is the second time i've had this problem. If anyone else wants to report it ask to speak to Sarah Turner at Honda UK (0845 200 8000) thats who I am dealing with.
I have a similar aged Blade and lately the ABS light has flashed. This is easily reset by restarting and going for a short blast – not ideal This only happens at very low speeds ie when hard turning into my driveway. The dealer diagnosed ‘insufficient pressure at the pistons’, luckily I bought warranty with my bike so was covered for a full ABS bleed as well as a clean-up of the callipers. My main problem was slight corrosion at the pistons causing them to stick occasionally. Done about 300 miles and its been OK since (fingers crossed)
Well not too happy with Honda UK so far. Was told basically you have to take it to a dealer before we will help, if we do help at all as it is out of warranty! Thankfully John Banks Honda in Bury St Edmunds are much more helpful and have arranged to have my blade collected and to diagnose it on Thursday this week. Honda are apparantly not at liberty to discuss as to whether or not this problem has been reported before! I am certainly not happy with that response seeing how many people have experienced this problem, has anyone here reported the issue before direct to Honda? If so what responses did you get, i would be very much interested to hear what you have been told. I'll update with more information soon. Background info is that the bike looses all brake feel (Brake lever and Pedal go to the bar and towards the floor) all of a sudden when braking, hear a squelching noise from the right front side of the bike and have to pump the brakes a couple of times to get a brake lever bake (a poor spongey one however) The ABS light flashes until you turn the ignition off and then restart the bike. I will put a new thread up to try and get a list of people who have experienced CABS Failure/Faults if i need it to go forward. Cheers Pete
Remove the 10amp cabs fuse under the seat; the system will not activate with the ignition & you will have somewhat conventional brakes instead. The yellow warning light will remain lit of course. I fitted a toggle switch between the fuse & the cabs ecu; this means you can reset on the fly without stopping to turn the ignition off/on. You may also want to try giving the calipers & sensors a good clean in addition to a fluid change if its within your skillset.
It certainly isn't unfortunately.. How are you getting on with the bike now then Swiss T? Is the Abs permanently disabled now? I just called in at Honda and they said the problem will be nothing to do with the Abs, but maybe the fluid needing a change or maybe even an air trap in the system. Bit of a coincidence to me though that so many people have trouble with it.
The Dealer's/Honda do seem to want to protect their ABS system, any problems aways seem to contributed to consumables such as fluids, pads and deterioration of callipers etc. I've had the fortunate experience of a very supportive dealer. I've had previous ABS hondas (CB1000R and CB600F) covered nearly 80kMiles on those and never had a hitch with the ABS. The ABS on the Blade doesn't seem to be as reliable
Link to the other thread on this : http://1000rr.co.uk/general-1000rr-discussion/10058.htm Video Link to my C-ABS issue : C-ABSFailure_zps16cb37f4.mp4 Video by Peter19871 | Photobucket
