Specifically the clutch pivot points, I'd like to know what you guys use to keep the upper and lower clutch pivot points lubed. Does the clutch line need to be lubricated also? If so, would you mind telling me how? Also interested to know what other points on the bike you would lubricate as part of a service? Bike is an '08 if it makes any difference...
get one of these to lube the inner chain. clutch throttle cable lube tool lubrication lubricator motorcycle bike | eBay Lube wise I like to use dry lube like finish line Teflon.
Cheers Slick, much appreciated. Would you use that same lube on the pivot for the clutch lever and down on the side of the clutch casing?
I used to use a bit of light machine oil on the line itself. Nowadays I take it to the dealer and have coffee at work while someone else sweats over it... :O I think nowdays hey just replace the cable itself every 2nd service or so as it's generally stretched a lot by then. In my case that's about 6-8 months, so not a lot of time for it to need a great deal of TLC besides tightening. H
Thanks for the advice guys, I've ordered a new clutch line for peace of mind since I'm on about 16k now and it's not far from end of the adjustment. Only 20 notes. Nice idea there travelling kiwi. Slick, sorry to keep firing these questions at you but just had a look on eBay and there's a Finish Line teflon lube and a teflon grease. Not sure which of these you're using? finish line teflon | eBay
Dry teflon lube mate, I've had a bottle for years. Goes on like water so coverage is very good and dries leaving a 'dry residue'. No mess and doesn't attract dirt.
I use 3-IN-ONE Pro High Performance Lubricant Spray with PTFE and one of the cheap cable oilers listed above as part of my winter service before going under the cover till springtime(is there such a season anymore)! You can feel the cable getting easier after the lube is applied and rebuilt. I use the same lube on all the lubricating points as specified in the manual too.
Thanks very much for the help guys! I now have a new clutch cable and a can of lubricant on it's way to me. Much appreciated.
The clutch and brake lever pivots points often dry out some get corroded easily, clean the throat of the assembly with paraffin and grease the brass bush. Same applies to gear change and rear brake pedals. Cables remove kinks check for fraying clean and lube. I use a hose over the cable paraffin inserted and let gravity remove the gunge that done old fork oil inserted till it seeps out at the bottom. TWISTGRIP. Remove the drum and remove the paint from the clip-on don't know why Honda paint it as rubs off and latches onto the plastic drum restricting a smooth operation. Clean the inside of the drum and you'd be surprised the amount of gunge that's latched on. All those task completed be prepared to take 15 minutes off the M25 JSB!!!!!!!!!!!!
My Tyre fitter made a point of stating how the Japs in particular don't bother lubing the wheel spindles. He was telling me how he gets some bikes in and he can tell on the first tap if the spindles partialy siezed where upon he aborts the tyre replacement and refers the client and bike to their dealer or mechanic. 9 times outa 10 he states the client returns having had new bearings fitted as the spindle has damaged them on forced removal. Just at this point he removed my front spindle on my 5 week old Bike with 425 miles on it and low and behold the spindle was dry as a bone! The rear spindle was exactly the same! I left a happy bunny with new tyres and greased up spindles!
Yeh that's the case with every bike i've had, my shafts are always dry so I always make a routine of applying lube to them when I get fresh rubber.
There are many shortcomings with the Japs your post SW is one of many that I came across with a new bike. Rear engine bolt loose, injectors not fully butted on to the cylinder head. This only came to light when the front wheel bearing got corroded after only 2k miles when the bike was given a thorough check. These bikes are completed at factory in 2hours from start to finish any wonder.!! TIP FOR DIY . When replacing wheel bearings remove the rubber seal and check for grease have come across bearings that had little or no grease resulting in the owner wrecking the bearing, wheel spindle and the wheel within 2 days of use.
