Nick do you know those rear peg hooks are not meant to be fitted to an abs model? There is an abs specific version of the hooks that stick out away from the larger plastic housing on the under tray. I fitted one of these volt meters to top of dash, I originally got a small multi colour led model but it wasn't very easy to get a good reading as to charge rate unless either overcharging or battery almost flat. I decided to fit the meter as a precausion to know if the following happens again! Long story short, had charging system issues turned out to be the regulator (very common suzuki fault) I wanted a fast way to check the charging system was functioning correctly at a glance. The meters waterproof and is powered from a multi fused relay in the tail that's ign fed, another feed from the relay goes to a waterproof cig socket again in the tail which gave me power to iphone housed in an ultimate addons case fitted to headstock nut. This means that when I kill the ign and both cig socket and the volt meters power connection is cut so cant run battery flat. I don't think I would fancy gettin caught out in the rain with your cig socket in its current location nick (think it would pop fuse quick) The bracket looks good an all but I would rather opt for my current setup off all connections being sum watt protected from the elements inside the tail section! On another note I found I had to purchase the larger output USB cig charger for ipad(2.1amp) as the standard iPhone version(1amp) couldn't keep up with the power demands on the iPhone with tomtom gps all running.
Dave my Suzuki's regulator gave out and the only evidence of any problem was a slight change in brightness on both my dash and the headlight as the voltage spiked above normal. If a charging system fails and stops charging the battery the only damage and symptom would normally be the battery going flat during riding but if the charging system is overcharging it can lead to blown fuses/ECU's, burnt out stator coil and in some cases actually setting the bike on fire! Not trying to scare anyone or anything but just giving my experience and thoughts.
Nick that gear indicator is on this thread, unsure if price is good or bad but have a look mate http://1000rr.co.uk/parts-accessories-clothing/11060.htm
Could well be wrong, but arn't vehicle fuses rated at 32v? Therefore to blow a fuse or even melt wiring by high voltage I reckon the battery would fry first through over charging and you'd be extremely unlucky to not notice something's a miss either through dash lights etc getting brighter, smell and in worst cases heat. Saying that, understand how the device would provide an early indication of deterioration over time and appeal to some.
Cheers Martin, thanks for the tip. Am on the case and am in contact with the seller, (RichC) to buy it. Nick.
. I didn't know that mate. Looks like I really fooked-up there then. The ones I've fitted are the ones that the Polish bloke, 'IomTT' sells on this forum. The left hand side was 'ok' but I had to 'modify' the right side to fit. I found the whole process of removing the pillion rests a real 'long-winded' struggle and tho I could probably do it a second time with my eyes closed I can't say I look forward to it. Do you have a link to the brackets you mention? Nick.
Dave, The way I understand it, the regulator is designed to short out some of the voltage coming from each of the 3 coils installed in the stator on the bikes. Once the voltage from a coil gets to around the 14v mark the regulator shorts the excess voltage to the chassis this is why the regulators get very hot even when working normally. The problem comes when the regulator goes faulty and keeps shorting a coil to earth all the time or not shorting at correct voltage gives over charging problem. The wiring that melts tends to be the wiring for the regulator and coils sometimes the wire for coils them selves melt inside the engine casing too. There have been many reports of fires on the Suzuki gsxr line and in 08 they even put out a recall in order to replace sub par regulators on them due to them catching fire. So basically it depends on how the regulators actually malfunction which dictates what sort of issue it creates the best and cheapest is if the charging system fails completely and not supplying any voltage to the battery causing it to just go flat, if it over charges the system or only part of the 3 coils charging system fail it can lead to all sorts of things that can go wrong as said before from a simple fuse to a written off bike at other end of the scale. I am not saying everyone should do what I have done but the volt meter cost me a fiver and the relay was already fitted for the cig socket so I thought why not. Hopefully I don't get another issue with my charging system but like i said this is on a Suzuki rather than a Honda but they do use same technology for charging system.
WOW! Those are niiiiiice. But, $135.00 + $35.00 + £££s to HMCA! Sato Racing "The Original Street Hooks" Honda CBR1000RR ABS 2009 12 Race Hooks | eBay Duz n e body in uk import, i wonder?
+1 As said, some sort of voltage indicator will give you adavnce warning and you then have the option to do something about it before any damage is done. There are a few Honda's that are know for regulator failures, they are easy to fit and take up no room so why not. Hopfully the nay sayers will not be stranded somewhere with a fried altenator one day.......
Mate, I really don't wont to get into a pissing contest with anyone around electronic knowledge, the main reason why I didn't reply. There could be multiple root causes for the mixed outcomes listed throughout the thread, therefore one example isn't necessarily the answer to all root causes. Other than batteries frying through over charging, wires melting, stator coils frying are more likely caused by lower resistance, eg a short, which leads to increased current and in this case a lower DC voltage. If Suziki mount a regulator/rectifier that relys on heat dissipation to operate effeciently behind a hot rad, no wonder they fail, cause a short and melt themselves and the associated wiring. I fully understand how a regulator works, covered it in amoungst other things in my four year electronic apprenticeship and colleague courses with the mod. My point was purely that you don't need a voltmeter to know something's not right as there's various other signs, if it floats ya boat to fit one, great. I'd personally fit a ammeter connected to the right place if it was damage I was worried about
Spot on. Just trying to explain that low dc voltage readings can be the symptom of something that can cause as much damage as high.
Plenty of 'clearance' on full R/H lock even with this thing (Which, as you can see is A LOT larger than my mate Sinwaves dick) plugged in. Full R/H lock....
Ah, ya C, that's where a USB outlets reduced length is King! Avin' a little one that's potent is always better than a large prehistoric US one!
Mmmmmmm, they are niiiiiice but at 110 beer tokens a 'pop' SW me old mate, I'm soooo over it. BTW, I've got really small handz mate.
