Hi guys Could someone please tell me the standard front sprocket size on an 08-11 blade? I wanna go down a tooth on the front. Also if anyone knows.. how much will the speedo be out afterwards? Will I require a speedo healer?? Thankkkkkkssss
She will be wheelie good Yes you would need a healer,don't know how far out though.I went the other way +2 on rear so (correct me if I'm wrong) no messing around with the chain..
Lol ^ I dont know the gearing that well for your year, but say it's around 15, then you read 7.5% under by losing one tooth, so you will need a speedo healer. I have a -1 RR5 front still sat in a drawer for a year, a daren't fit it, partly as the bike is quick enough with +2 rear and partly because I dont want to feel that im missing out on the feeling of all that extra power if i put the old one back on. Have you gone up on the back yet?
No not yet I thought just going -1 on the front? could I go +2 on the rear and not need a speedo healer? Please explain
Nahh it amounts to the same thing, i reckon +4 on the back would be almost the same as -1 on the front. Changing the back is easier IMO and tightens up the chain, changing the front means the rear wheel will be at its furthest adjustment to the back.
So I go for this JT Front Sprocket 15T Honda CBR1000RR 08-09 | eBay or this JT Alloy Race Rear Sprocket for Honda CBR600 F CBR600RR CBR1000RR SP1 SP2 45T 45 | eBay currently bidding on a speedo healer... so if i change the rear i will tighten the chain moving the wheel forward, does it end up fouling the swingarm? if i go front sprocket will it be almost at full adjustment back??
no t really,-1 front is equal to about +2.75 on the rear (3 for arguments sake). as for the chain bit,why will the rear tighten up the chain? you have chain adjusters to do just that.the only real thing it effects is wheel base,but on a road bike it wont make any noticable difference but will be no near the back of the arm unless you have an over long chain,or stretched. it's far easier to go -1 on the front than putting any on the rear (time wise at least) and is always my 1st gear change,then i'll fine tune it by altering the rear,be it +1,2,4 or 4.i have run -1 +5 on the rear and it gives unbelievable acceleration out of the corners,but is quite flighty and you lose a lot of top end speed.
dont know about the UK but i have a 2011 australian blade and it had a 16 tooth - i went down to a 15 tooth and the speedo indicated approx 3-4 km faster than i was doing which equates to approx 2 mph great when your pressing the speed limit and go past a speed camera - it keeps you safe - but when your fanging around mountain roads, who cares what the speedo says, its all about full throttle, not geeky numbers.
Not sure if this is any good to anyone? Gear Ratio Chart- Superior Sprockets' instructions for deturmining sprocket tooth count.
Dropping the gearing -1F +1R should leave you about bang on Speedo wise on a 2012 model. My standard geared Bike over reads by some margin according to my Sat Nav (Speedo indicating 90 is 81 on Sat Nav) So above gearing should be about right with no Speedo Healer at all
thats the thing people dont realise,a standard speedo over reads anywhere upto 10% so i wouldn't bother with a healer anyway.
Doesn't changing gearing like that make speedo read faster than your going though? Wouldn't that then make it show 20% faster than your going?
it will over read more yes but not another 10%.well not unless you change your gearing a lot,but tbh what does it matter,your in a 30,do 30 and you'll be safe from the feds and thier clever little grey boxes,or just keep up with the traffic ahead. thats just me though,some people may want/need to have a "real"mph showing.
Sorry yea 20% was just an example as a reply to the above post that advised it would correct the 10% it was already out
I once did that Tyke but found going into a corner and adding a bit of gas the bike used to lurch forward ie the power at slow speeds was on off so I changed back " may be ok for others though"
if your opening the throttle so fast that it lurches,you need to be smoother opening it,either that r you have a big flat spot in your power curve
