All I would say is don't go too over the top with lacquers and the like. Get something that is going to do the job and be durable rather than look all sparkly. Makes it much harder to match/replicate if the worst should happen and you drop the bike.
Yeah probably right rob, maybe ill just do matt primer in black and matt lacquer for some extra protection, ill make sure I get paint/lacquer that is specific to plastic, will post pics to show how it goes
Good stuff, keep us posted! it is very satisfying when it is all done and you can sit back and think "I did that". then 96 hours later thinking "what a f***ing waste of time that was" as you throw the remaining bits into the nearest bin.
Plastidip is another option. It's a matt rubber based paint that sprays on as a liquid and quickly dries to a rubber finish. I have used this on lots of small jobs including my cars grille that has been on for 3 years and 10's of thousands of miles, the front end is peppered with stone chips, but because the grille is rubber coated it has none. This is exactly what I plan to use when I drop my track bike as it doesn't need lacquer to protect against chips and you can peel it off to start again if the panel gets damaged. I don't know how well it protects against petrol spills, but Shouldn't cost too much to find out. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PLASTIDIP..._Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item27d5204851
As I quoted to you previously young tyke "you can't polish a turd" As all say it dont need to look mint, just acceptable! My track bike is known as "the fridge" as it's sprayed domestic appliance gloss white... Told its getting some new decals made for it
Hey, I repainted the nose cone on my SV just before trading it in but I used 2 pack paint raher than the rattle can method, I found these pics were still on my phone. The previous owner had dropped the bike before I got it and had someone respray it. The front was absolutly covered in stone chips along with a couple of places with the orange peel effect, I meant to redo the respray but never got round to it till it came time to get rid of it! Funny that init cars and stuff get more TLC for resale than during normal ownership! This was the nose before doing anything to it. close up of stonechips. whole nose got a seeing to with 400 and then 600 grit papers. next up was some coats of base coat. then 3 coats of chip resistant clear coat.
after about a week the clearcoat was wetsanded and polished up and the nose when back on. After everything was rebuilt (all parts removed I was keeping) took the bike for a quick test run before me an Colin traveled the 170 miles to pic up the gixer.
The use of primer will leave a slightly rough surface and it does not have any protective properties such as UV protection and can also discolour or get damaged by chemicals (even chems like mucoff cleaner). The rough coating will also mean muc and other road grime will get stuck in the hollows and make if very difficuilt to clean properly. You could always sand these so they are more flat but for any protection you will need to apply some sort of clearcoat/lacquer. Primer is also not water proof and will allow water to penetrate beneath it this is more o a problem with metal car panels than bike fairing tho. Hope some of what I posted can be deemed usefull.
Yeah your probs right al. got the dvd mate thanks for that my mum will go nuts when she sees the pics of me binning it!! Lol
YK, the matt black will turn shiny with the lacquer unless u use a matt finish lacquer (more expensive than std lacquer).
During Colin's SP1 build thread we used standard lacquer on the rotors (changed colour from black to gold) to add some protection from the sun but used the can at a further distance than recommended to give the appearance of a satin/matt finish and applied around six coats but kept them really thin as we didn't want the lacquer to build up and turn shiny. It did have the desired effect but not sure how well this method would work on bodywork when it comes to cleaning as dirt could gather in low hollows of the lacquer. Also matte finishes can't be polished in the same way normal paint finishes can if u do they will turn shiny. There are special products designed for matte finishes but not many and they tend to be expensive! Hope everything works out for you tho in your chosen method.
Yeah was planning to get matte lacquer but depends on price. could end up just doin normal gloss etc. aslong as its black im not too bothered!
Go satin matt black mate, best of both worlds then.It is a bit better for hard wearing and doesn't stain as matt black does.Autotek,Hycote or Simoniz are the best out there.I sell Autotek cos it covers very well..Petrol on these paints can stain it , just spray more paint over it.I reckon 4 cans of primer and 6 cans of black would do it. £60 roughly.
Painted a few sets of fairings last few months tried different methods but white primer then flat off then 2 pack flat again and lacquer seems the best finish . Tank was a bit of a mare ha ha
I am planning to go to AE motor colours in York. Proper autopaint shop, will be buying tubs or w/e of the paint to go with airbrush and compressor. How much will I need of the satin matt black and clear coat??
1ltr of paint will do the lot thats what I used.This makes 2ltrs of paint thinned down for your gun.Make sure it is solvent based cos water based needs a decent heater to bake it off.If you are using a gloss laquer then a gloss black would be easier for you,not sure how a matt laquer would come out like with a matt black or satin.A bit of time and patience it would look somewhat like this
YK please don't try and spray the whole bike with an airbrush u will be at it for hours! Spend £20 and buy a cheap spray gun something like New HVLP Blue Gravity Spray Gun Mini Jet Smart Repair / Spray Tan | eBay These are not as big as regular guns and get used for smart repairs a lot, and are easy to handle. It may be cheap n cheerful but it does what it's made for! I have this unit myself for spraying small items and used it on the nose cone pictured earlier!
I'm not totally sure what the lad who's helping me with it uses, I assume it will be something similar to what you've linked shiny, ill ask
