Since a few of you have shown a bit of interest and given me some advice with the repair of my trackbike thought I'd try and keep everyone up to date with progress... So far I've machined a new footpeg at work since the one's I ordered were M12 ID instead of M8 The Harris sub frame is straightened and ready to be welded this weekend, also replace the clip-on that got all twisted The fairings I have body filled, fiberglassed and sanded down to 240 grit smooth, tomorrow I'll commence with 400 and 600 until they are ready for painting. Plan for next week is: Monday- Primer and fit subframe Tuesday- Topcoat Wednesday- Clear coat Thursday- Fit fairings, wheels, connect everything up etc. Friday- CADDERS!!! Will post some pics of the paint job if I remember/get time before cadwell. Cheers Guys YT
That's a decent job of a foot peg dude .You may need to have a look at making some goodies for us which in turn would fund a track day or two.
Yeah its marked up a bit both ends cos unfortunately it got chucked in with all the spare parts! Lol. I can do the odd bit but with materials and labour its cost a fair bit! Can see why gilles charge so much tbf even tho they will do it all CNC. If people are ever stuck tho I woulf love to try and help!
Tyke, your time table is short but I would hit the panels with clear straight after the base give the normal 15mins between coats to flash off then wait around 30-40 mins for final base coat to flash over n just hit it with the clear! Then try and leave the clear as long as you can before trying to fit the panels as it can still be a bit soft and easy to mark. That way it gives the panels all of wed into Thursday to harden up a bit.
Hi buddy, I didn't see your other thread about painting, but as said above it is best to hit the panels after the base coat flashes, esp if your using rattle cans, I do quite a bit of painting myself, and even when using 2k base and clear with an accelerator , the clearcoat will take a good few days until its hard. good luck with it all matey, and happy to help if you get stuck
So you guys reckon monday night do 2/3 layers of primer black, then tuesday night do all the clear and leave that night, wed night and thrusday night to dry??
yes fella, you want as long as possible for the clear to harden, as fitting the panels when they are soft can leave finger marks in it
The whole fairing set is now sanded 400 grit smooth. Starting with 600 tonite. When looking under certain light though you can still see some scratches/sanding marks from the rougher papers. Will a few coats of primer fill these? The plastics feel smooth to touch.
From my limited experience of spraying bodywork, I would say it is worth trying to get as many of the scratches out as possible, as they will show throw.
Can you feel it with your finger nail? Also try using the opposite hand that u normally use, ie if your right handed lightly rub your left hand fingers lightly over the surface n see if you can feel any high/low spots. If all feels good you should be good to prime, I would also recommend giving the primer a bit of a sand down before applying the base coat as that way you can help remove any of the high spots created when the primer fills any scratches left that should give the best results in the end. Good luck!
Woop woop! Gonna 600 it to death tonite and tomorl and then get her painted up. Then probably crash at cadwell and do it all again!! Hehe love it
Me being a bit thick when I first read that Thought you were going to do an engine swap tonight for a 600 lump
I'm gonna follow robs advise I think and just buy a 600 gsxr and transfer all my bling bits across instead...
So sanding is done! Wet&Dry 600 tonight with a mate and I'm glad its over.. Hopefully painting this weekend/start of next week so fingers crossed. In response to what you asked about the scratches shiny- they are tiny, can't feel them and filler won't touch them so I think the primer should fill em up OK. Couldn't even get em to show up on the camera Now just waiting for this bloody subframe to get sorted and should be rockin and rollin!!
Not a fan of hand sanding myself YT that's why they invented air operated dual action sanders! If you can't feel the scratches by nail edge or by rubbing ur hand over the area they should be fine to prime. If you have sanded all the panels with 400 grit I would tend to just degrease and hit it with the plastic primer and then flatten that with the 600 to create a key for the paint! Just remember you don't have to remove all the paint back to the fibreglass or abs plastic, u really only need to flatten and fix any damage the rest of the panel just needs sanded in order to give the next coat a key to stick too.
If ive scuffed the paint up could i just go get some rattle tin top coat and lacquer and spray em up that way? How many tins of each woukd i need?
From my limited experience, I would go for a couple of primers and a couple of topcoat cans and just for good measure a couple of lacquer cans too.
Can't really help - think i used 2 or 3 large cans WHen buying paint to save some £'s don't select a car colour, if you go to Halfords look for 'Domestic Appliance Gloss White' you will see its loads less
Haha I am desperate to see this washing machine white of yours on the bike al... You got any pics of the beasty?
You can't good old Appliance Gloss White!! That is what my previous race bike was done in. Go for the larger cans in this as it works out cheaper still.
