Hi folks, Looking for some advice. I'm looking to disconnect the flapper valve system in the ram air scoops on my RR8. 1. Is this worth doing (seems to be)? 2. Which is the best way to disconnect the system? Simply pulling the pipe off each side and plugging them up or unhooking the metal hook from the metal valve inside the air scoop that controls/lifts the plastic flap thing? Sorry not very technically described
08 Flapper mod : Honda CBR 1000RR Motorcycle Forums: 1000RR.net Previously posted by another member......... pics will help Loads of posts about flapper mod just search through forum
NOTE..The rogueracing link only relates to the 04-07 blade flap arrangement. The 08 onwards arrangement is quite a lot different.
UPDATE- Hi guys, Quick update. I have bypassed the flap valves in the air intakes on my 08 Blade. Simply disconnected the vacuum pipe at the T junction under the centre of the front fairing and blocked off the main feed pipe. 2 min job. The difference - much noticeable difference in smoothness in throttle response in lower/mid revs. No warning lights on dash. Well worth it.
Now Im even more confused! Thought he had found an easier way than screwing with the springs. Makes me wonder if it has any effect at all now? has anyone altered there 08-12...is it worth it and any repercussions? ta
I removed air ducts and split them , removed the flaps and springs and resealed the air ducks, so now I have a full ram air, Hard to tell if theres any differance really but at least I know the engine is gettin as much air as possibly all the time
I thought with the engine off the flaps were in the open position. Once the bike is running the valves close at certain low revs and reopen once the relevant higher revs reached. In removing the vacuum they cannot close therefore leaving them open all the time???? It seemed to be running full power, surely I'd notice at full acceleration on the track, it was accelerating as quick as its rival modern 1000 sport bikes. And at lower revs it was smoother throttle response. Didn't notice a power increase at higher revs but that not what I was looking for anyway. Can someone clarify
From reading the previous link- 08 Flapper mod : Honda CBR 1000RR Motorcycle Forums: 1000RR.net It would appear I have left the flaps closed permanently! Balls!! Oh well, there's me thinking I spotted an easy mod and was more than happy to share. I should've known better. The morale of the story 'never try'
On the 08 onwards, the intake flapper mod itself has no effect on performance mate. People might tell you it does, but try and find some actual evidence. Changing the actual tubes may be a different story.
Long flat head screwdriver and needle nose plyers makes short work of the springs. Even seen one fella pull the whole flap out without the need of spiltting The air ducts open.the flapper mod was done as originally the first gen 1000rr's Had a bit or a lumpy spot low in the revs and doing the mod removed this. Not sure if there is the same effect in the newer models.
Hi guys, reconnected the system in the meantime. Thanks for keeping me right boys. I'll leave the mods for now and stick with thrashing it on track. That'll do me
All that needs to be done is choke the vacuum supply AND disconnect the springs, leave the rest of the junk in place unless you're going to change the air tubes. In terms of outright performance there's probably no real great improvement. What I found, and I proved this to myself by reconnecting the flaps then disconnecting them again just to double check, is that the mod smoothes out the throttle response in the lower rev range especially the transition from nearly closed to back on the gas, before the mod it could be jerky, after the mod it's loads smoother. I also have the standard exhaust but with the exhaust flapper disconnected too. Maybe it's a combination of the flaps at each end because in completely standard trim the air tube flaps and the exhaust flap work around the same revs.
i pulled springs and flaps out without splitting the whole lot, i then removed everything from the front fairing. To cover the holes i cut the long 'coat hook' off the actuator and just put it back in place leaving it disconnected
I cant remember where I read about what I did , but you can buy hrc tubes which are meant to improve the ram air , no restrictions on the inside of the tubes, So in removing the flaps and springs, I also trimmed bits of plastic and sealed all gaps with silicone on the inside of the tubes, Which gives direct ram air with no turbulence of the air
