Bleeding of the hidden front c-abs power unit

Discussion in 'Maintenance' started by barry107, Jul 28, 2013.

  1. Swiss T

    Swiss T Active Member

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    Excellent. Let us know if it has the info when it arrives.

    :)
     
  2. honda.ima

    honda.ima Active Member

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    Just bought one as well, as I intend keeping the bike better look after it right.

    Easy order replied within 5 minutes to say it was shiped will see how long it takes to arrive.
     
  3. Slick

    Slick Elite Member

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    Dang with hindsight shoulda organised a group buy!
    Lets hope its what we expect
     
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  4. samd1985

    samd1985 Active Member

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    Just this evening carried out my third C-ABS bleed this evening, although this time I bled the front power unit as well. So, tank off, seat off, fairings off, radiator removed... Just got to put it all back together tomorrow after flushing the coolant and a deep clean behind all those 'hidden' areas! Weirdly, I find it enjoyable?!

    For those that have already bled the system: the amount of air I got out of every bleed nipple; from the master cylinder to rear calliper was very surprising! I only bled the system (admittedly minus the front power unit) about 2000 miles ago at the end of June, and already I've begun to feel a slight reduction in braking power - as if its become too intrusive.

    Here's a few pics of the bike stripped down:

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1375478348.829472.jpg

    Draining the coolant:
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1375478362.491475.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1375478433.026468.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1375478446.381653.jpg


    I love tinkering!

    Sam
     
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  5. barry107

    barry107 Active Member

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    Well down Sam,
    I found the hardest bit was taking off the bodywork, the rest of it was a doodle.
     
  6. sinewave

    sinewave God Like

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    If U get good at it Sam ya wanna start a Mobile Service to us busy ABS owners!

    :)
     
  7. samd1985

    samd1985 Active Member

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    I know what you mean, its very time consuming ensuring you don't snap any tabs. Thankfully my Honda dealer gave me a copy of the instructions and kindly had their technician give me a how-to tutorial as he removed mine previously.

    Over night I tied the lever hard to the bar to help any residual air bubbles rise to the m/c bleed nipple. For the first time ever the lever still was rock solid in the morning! Usually it loses tension and sits comfortably against the bar. I got a few small bubbles out of the m/c bleed nipple, and some very minor ones at the left front calliper. Well worth doing that after the full system bleed I think.


    The brakes feel immense now!! Immense! I've been out on my favourite local roads and testing them out this evening. Minimal lever travel (I've even had to set the lever to 3 on the adjustment dial; normally at 2), brilliant stopping power and none of those overly intrusive situations from the C-ABS under extreme braking that I've had in the past :) Well chuffed!

    Love these brakes, despite the tinkering required to keep them in top condition. Good job I enjoy it!

    Sam
     
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  8. samd1985

    samd1985 Active Member

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    It seems there could be a market for it... Just need to do it a little quicker first to make it pay, haha! I can see why Honda quote near on 5 hours to do it!
     
  9. barry107

    barry107 Active Member

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    Top man Sam
     
  10. Wolfmancol

    Wolfmancol Active Member

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    Can i say thanks again for the help! I have sucessfully bled my entire C-ABS system from every thing shown on this thread and the other thread about bleeding C-ABS system. Lots of good info put forward by lots of people too. The main area that i found lots of air in system was the rear ABS unit. I have road tested my bike making sure everything gets really hot i had the temp up to 108 degrees for a while too and brakes feel spot on. Also i looked at the front power unit behind the exhaust manifold and after some thought i loosend off coolant radiator being careful not to have it resting against any brackets so not to damage it, i then removed bolts from power unit heat shield and managed to move the shield enough to get a spanner onto the bleed nipple between exhaust downpipes 3 and 4. The tricky bit was getting the brake bleed pipe on to the nipple. From the left side of bike i used some long nose mole grips just gripping just enough not to block clear bleed pipe onto bleed nipple through gap between engine and exhaust manifold. Then during bleed process when it was the power unit's turn i slackend off bleed nipple nearly 1/4 turn with left hand and started pumping brake lever with right while watching the pipe for air bubbles then held in brake lever and nipped up bleed nipple with left hand again, it would have been easier with a helper but i managed on my own. I know its a bit of struggling but it saved releasing all the exhaust and having to bleed cooling system as well. It worked for me and maybe not work or suit everyone. The whole system was bled well within 2 1/2 hours taking into account the bits i did. I recon by removing left fairing only the front power unit could be bled without even removing the radiator/exhaust or loosening the heat shield as you can see bleed nipple from left side if fairing removed so if you could get an 8mm crowfoot wrench on a long 1/4 drive extension and using long nose pliers or mole grips like i did to put pipe on bleed nipple it could be done in 2 hours. Sorry i was that carried away with getting my bike sorted i didn't get any pictures. Also could i add that i have seen the Genuine Honda methods for bleeding the brakes and the ones on the link on this thread are the same ones with Honda paragraph headers missing so they are spot on. Hope all this helps.
     
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  11. barry107

    barry107 Active Member

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    Took the bike down to Croydon today, through loads of traffic so the bike got nice and hot. The brakes were faultless, no matter how I braked, I had no isssues whatsoever :D

    I'll give the bike another good run out later in the week too see if she still behaves herself again :rolleyes:
     
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  12. thezipsteruk

    thezipsteruk Elite Member

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    can someone confirm that Barry got out of Croydon alive??
    I get worried...
    I was born and raised there so im not being recist..its called a realist lol
     
  13. barry107

    barry107 Active Member

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    thezipsteruk,
    No need to worry, only moved away from downtown Mitcham 3 years ago. Not even people from Croydon would visit Mitcham :D

    Was in Croydon to rehearse a full military funeral for a fallen comrade in arms :(
     
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  14. sinewave

    sinewave God Like

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    I can confirm the VERY in depth C-ABS Bleeding procedure is in the manual in full.
     
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  15. thezipsteruk

    thezipsteruk Elite Member

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    brilliant stuff!
    come on Sine get your digital camera out a photos of every page lol
     
  16. thezipsteruk

    thezipsteruk Elite Member

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    DOWNLOADED Copies!!?? :D
    dont suppose you could 'accidentally' post the dowmload link on here or in a PM could you?? :rolleyes:
     
  17. sinewave

    sinewave God Like

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    Get ya wallets out ya Tightwads, there only £35!


    A pdf on a Pewter is not that useful when actuall working on a Bike in ya Garage, Paper is King! :D
     
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  18. thezipsteruk

    thezipsteruk Elite Member

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    lol! you are so correct about the paper being king.
    But If i blew £35 on another manual, Id have to pay for a divorce too which would be way more bother than the pdf too lol
    On top of that but when you work for Prontaprint with Hi volume B+W copiers and spiral binding equipment...PDF is waaayyyy safer & cheaper.
     
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  19. Slick

    Slick Elite Member

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    Yes, its about 2 inches thick!.
    Well worth the money!
     
  20. honda.ima

    honda.ima Active Member

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    DSC_0159.jpg DSC_0160.jpg

    Just got my manual from the USA it's big and heavy for sure.
     

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