Pete1987; Could you (or anyone else) please post this article, or at least give the issue it's in? I'd love to read it and it would be great to show my dealer when they deny that there iss any problem at all. They always immediately dismiss anything "posted" on the internet as "trash" but can't disregard something published in an actual magazine.
Just as an update: I had the opportunity to go on a "test ride" at a Honda Canada sponsored event. Rode a Repsol 1000rr C-ABS as well as a 600rr C-ABS (both 2013). They both did the exact same "soggy lever" crap that my bike does (lever engagement point moving closer to grip with feathering in hot "stop & go" traffic - occasionally making braking close to impossible). The 1000 was a bit less than mine, and the 600 exactly the same. Perhaps a proper bleed will fix the problem as others have reported - I can't say. But I doubd it. A more likely conclusion is that this is simply how Honda's C-ABS brakes work - period! I likely won't be replacing my power modulator since this will require "opening" the system thereby introducing more air into the circuit. If Honda had stuck to a "conventional" ABS setup (like Kawi) there probably wouldn't have been a problem. Using this stupid "break by wire" system to make the ABS "unobtrusive" to "racers" was just plain stupid. Now, instead of being obtrusive only when the ABS kicks in (in life threatening situations), they are obtrusive ALL of the time - and completely undependable to boot! Besides, no true "racer" wants anything to do with ABS - whatever the type. Unfortunately, in Canada, the 1000rr only comes in the C-ABS variety - further proof that Honda has completely lost touch with it's market base and is no longer the premier manufaturer of high end sportsbikes that it once was. Too bad none of the many "unbiased" reviewers in the mags had noticed this glaring shortcoming. I trusted the reviews and was led to believe that C-ABS was perfection! Amnesia
Hi folks, I registered on 1000rr.cu.uk only to let you know that we have a very similar thread in the German Fireblade forum. The link is below. Of course the language is German, and you probably wont understand. However, I have started a list with model years, chassis numbers, history, etc. - just like you did in this thread. So far, I collected data from 17 users of the German forum. All share the problem you described here. I personally ride a 2009 ABS model and are one of them. ABS Leuchte blinkt immer nach dem Bremsen - SC59 - Fireblade-Forum ® Johannes
this will probably sound strange, but have any of you tried to stiffen up your ride, front and back. I had my suspension set up at a trackday, the suspension guys said the back was way too soft, the front was a little soft too. And (touch wood) it (the brake fade experience) hasn't happened since. Before this, I was able to reproduce it at will. the way I was able to reproduce this was to give it a quick burst of gas and slam on the brakes, it was easy to produce going at low speeds to high then braking. all it needs is a 2 second squirt of hard gas and slam on the brakes. id be really interested to know if its just me that can re-produce this or if everyone/some others can too.
Well, dropped my MY12 C-ABS off at the Dealers this morning for a Full ABS Bleed and the fitment of a full HEL kit. Said they could keep it a few days if needed so will keep you all informed how it goes.
Something I'm thinking of doing myself (Repsol Orange sleeves ) - do you mind telling me how much it's costing at the dealers?
Danke fuer den Hinweis. Ich hatte das bisher nur einmal, also einen Total-Ausfall oder wenn ich bei sehr geringer Geschwindigkeit die Hinterradbremse betaetigt hatte. Meine Garantie laeuft am 30.09. ab, deshalb werde ich vorher nochmal zum Haendler und den Fehlercode auslesen lassen, falls dass was bringt. Andernfalls gehe ich davon aus, das hier im Forum keine weiteren Biker sind die Deutsch lesen koennen, deshalb hast Du wohl keine weiteren Antworten bekommen. Gruss aus UK !
Nothing for the Bleed as it's a warranty claim. Expecting an Hours labour charge for the Hels though as that's an extra requested by me.
To let you all know I have passed this thread and others onto my boss this morning who is having a meeting with Honda today, doubt anything will come of it but it's worth a try.
MrB, do you know if the new smaller engined cbr abs models for 2014 have integrated the same abs systems used in the cbr600rr/cbr100rr?
Just a note on this - I recently took out (as a courtesy bike) a 2013 Honda NC700 and of course had to thoroughly test the bike out... The ABS system felt different to the Fireblade in that it kicked back, or pulsed, at both the lever and foot pedal when activated. Braking was excellent, and dare I say it better than the blade felt (just my opinion but it felt less intrusive in the dry). Perhaps there is a different system on some of the other bikes? Sam
Back in 2010-13 there were only two models the cbr600rr and the cbr1000rr in the Honda range that have the same (questionable reliability) abs system all other incarnations of abs equipped bikes use different abs systems. As above 2014 models are unknown as yet.
Maybe this bleeding System helps to improve - quality of bleeding - time needed The stahlbus® bleeder valve The Honda ABS System Is seperated into 3 areas by valves - brake lever - calliper - valve unit - power unit - the simulator Part inside the valve unit Each has to be bleeded well Not only the first one
Looks a good bito kit that Mr. Website moving diagrams are very good, however the Joker who made the embedded youtube vid was Gash! They sell em at DT Stahlbus Speed Bleeder Valve - Demon Tweeks
I have a question? How does that stalbus bleed valve work any better than the standard one way valve fitted to any decent bleed kit? So its got a nice fancy spring loaded ball that shuts off the flow back into the system when pressure drops low enuff. My cheap £5 sealey bleed kit has the same function but makes use of the silicon tube with a metal end stopper, pressure builds up tube gets pushed to the side allowing fluid n air to escape then when pressure drops the tube contracts back around the stopper which stops anything getting back into the system! Plus you would need to buy 3 of those valves in order to bleed one bike and only one bike as you can't use them to bleed another bike either as they need to be kept in the callipers at all times! Hmmm........think I will keep using the kit I have already got that I know works!
You're Alive... Unless your wife read the above of course... That could explain everything. Why is your bike unmoved in the car park for 2 days now? With a cracked front plastics above the left headlight? You rear end someone? H
