Hi guys Can anyone with an abs blade let me know if your abs ECU that's under and between the rider and pillion seat, is secured and does not move, or if there is a bit of play? I'm just paranoid that it should be secured to something as I recently took off the subframe and I don't know if I put the ECU back properly..I havnt touched it really but just wanted to be sure! Any help or advise would be great!from what I can see from the manual it just sort of sits there and attached only to the main loom. It's not attached to anything or bolted? Doug
Just been to the garage for you, There's an amount of play in the ECU, I found on mine there's a little bit of a rubber type tape on the top of it, this if fitted correctly, should match up with the lock of your pillion seat? No sign of any fixings, so I would suspect your ok?
Thanks for this! That's good no need to worry! Have you or anyone else had he problems with the abs that others have posted about on here? I've got a 2010 blade and I've always found the abs to be excellent?
Dougie, are you sure you are not a Honda UK troll, sent here to make out nothing ever goes wrong with an ABS Blade? Only joking matey, by law of averages someone had to strike lucky and get the one that works properly.
Haha! Well I'm sure these forums are here to make everyone paranoid that something is going to go wrong. I am indeed now paranoid lol! I mean I think I get a little of what folk are saying about the break lever coming into the bar but I just thought that was how the system work and it only happens at like 4 miles per our and if u release the brake a little and pull it in its fine? At full steam squeeze it and the bike stops on a dime. So what's all the chat about replacing ecus and stuff? Or do I just need to maintain the system and get a full bleed every so often like the thousands of other owners lol?
Dougie, If you are getting no issues matey, then carry on as normal. Have the brakes bled every 2 years by someone competent, and make sure its the full bleed procedure (around 5 hours) . You have found the low speed issue, that's a given on every ABS Blade, even though Honda like to deny it. You are lucky you have not experienced the high speed issue. On a 2010 Blade you will have the early ABS ECU, unless its been changed, where in certain circumstances the bike can by switched off and the ECU stays active and will flatten the battery in 30 mins, the later ECU fixes this, you cannot upgrade the early ECU just replace it at a cost of around £1200, if it happens beat up Honda for a goodwill change. I did, and if you throw a big enough paddy they cave in.
On a similar note, I would advise getting extended warranty. Mine is with warranty direct and I called them just now and it covers the entire abs breaking system should there be a fault. Pump, control unit,sensors ,master cylinder, pistons ,seals and servo unit. So I'll sleep ok lol
Kentblade - on what you have just said about me having the early ECU, while I have never had the battery drain issue, It looks like there are plenty of abs ecus on ebay for about £40 that are 2011 onwards. This may be a daft question but is it as simple as take the old one out and plug the new one in, or do you need to do some software modifications at a honda garage or something? Cheers
When you park the bike, if its ticking over and you manoeuvre it back and forth, as if getting into a gap/space, it can fool the ECU, and its stays live when the ignition is turned off. The first thing typically you will notice is lack of current when you attempt to start the bike.
Well i defo havnt had that - im not the original owner of the bike so maybe when all the issues came to light it was replaced? I wonder if there is a way of finding out the type of ecu it is? all i care about is, can i still rely on my brakes to stop me? or do i have to worry that they are going to malfunction spectacularly without this new ecu?
No problems with my ABS in 10k miles. Thing is people don't tend to post up saying "Hey my brakes work"
yep do this on an early ABS ECU and your asking for trouble Austin Powers - 3 point turn / maneuvering / parking Scene - YouTube I had this happen once or twice and come back to a flat battery, it's pretty much impossible to bump start afterwards. You tend to put in a few checks before you walk away from the bike, with the ignition off press the lever a few times, if you hear squelching the ABS is till active. With the kill switch off I turn the bike on again, if the abs light isn't on there's a problem. The only way to reset is to ride over 30 mph or so. As you have the newer ECU you shouldn't have these problem.
found an ecu I have found an abs ecu with model number 38600-MGP-D11 I believe this has come off a 2013 bike? Would this not be compatible with my 2010 bike? Anyone have any idea?
Just to throw another question into the mix, but what about the immobilizer system doesn't this work by when you turn the ignition on the ecu detects that a correctly programmed transponder key has been inserted and allowing the bike to start, so unless you do away/bypass the H.I.S.S any other ecu would be coded to the original bike it came from therefore a reprogram of the ecu would be needed ? I'm only assuming here so don't take it a gospel, but i am sure a phone call to Honda would answer your question more accurately
