Thanks Martin, its very close now TBH, when the front end is back on im just missing the tail being painted and a chain! Oh and the exhaust work of course..
Well my HESD bypass arrived today and now I have no errors displayed at all so ready to rock at full power hehe Just trying to decide if I buy a Power commander as im spent out now.. would have to go on the credit card which I want to avoid or run without one for a few months... Really like the idea of the auto tune which would mean getting the PC5, does anyone have one and is it worth getting? If not would probably get a second hand PC3 as wouldn't want the PC quick shifter would get the HM one later also..
I do and it's great, this is how it works in short:- Autotune is a great product but the name is a little misleading, people often assume that you install it, switch on and it maps your bike, well it does but not quite as simple as that. You will need an understanding of PCs and the PCV software, if your useless with these you will have a hard time. AT works by adding another fuel table to the PCV this table is the one that it creates based on what's being read from the sensor, the other is the base table (map) normally found in the PCV, AT has a target table too, this table is set with target AFR values that AT will try and keep too, in other words if your base map runs a little rich AT will look at its target AFR and then trim that value back to match its goal and store the result in the AT table, when AT is active (you can add a switch to turn it on and off) it will use the values stored in the AT table to fuel the bike it does this within a percentage of error, this is another value (default is 20%) that is there to protect the bike from damage in case the sensor was to fail, if it failed it could try and lean the bike 100% and damage the engine but the safety margin is in place to prevent this. One you understand this you can load a base map, run the bike and then hook up and view the Autotune table, you will see that if the base map is out all your trims will be maxed out, for example -20s and +20s for example, IF this is the case you would know your base map needs correction, at this point you have the option to accept the values, this then updates the base map, then you can ZERO the AT table and go ride again, next time you view the AT table you should see the values come down to within the percentage of error, remember it will not make changes greater than the percentage of error, you could change it to a higher value but not recommended! Once the AT table remains within the percentage of error the bike is mapped. However, take into account that AT will only map where it's been, so if you have not run the bike at full throttle it will not map it, this means if you wish to map top gear flat out and you only have access to a public road you have a problem! Also you could argue the AT is too late I.e it's mapped AFTER the bike has passed that zone, in other words your race off the line the bike gets mapped, it's not until you rerun that race you take advantage of the new values, so the bike will always benefit from a custom base map, this way with the AT switch you can run a HARD MAP as I call it and AT when you like, this way you can check up now and then to see if your base map has drifted out enough to warrant going back to dyno to map the bike for best power, as I say best AFR rarely makes best power, a leaner bike produces better peak power, however lean bikes are often peaky on the throttle and hard to ride fast as they are simply hard to deal with, a smooth bike is a fast bike, easy to ride and can be rode hard through turns etc without an unpredictable throttle. Hope that helps people understand AT.
Thanks Arthur that's what I thought, found some good vids on the dynojet you tube channel today and was reading (watching) but great to have a real world opinion
looking good mate. Hopefully you can get the de cat fitted to the headers without a problem or the bike running dodgy.
It's a great but of kit, I could tell you much more about how it works and the pros and cons but it's a long subject, thing to take into account is 13.2:1 (best air and fuel for the engine) AFR does not always make best power so a base map is always a good idea, if the dyno opp was good enough he could setup the target AFR table for best power then AT would map for best power rather than best AFR for the engine, that's not an easy task but is possible, saying that AT is still a great system and does give you an insight to how the engine is running and the click of a button, with a custom map the dyno opp will try and get a smooth chart trimming the AFR to level out the power curve, he will also lean off the engine to give good power, keeping it rich enough to look after the engine, he will create a table that is a compromise of all worlds and give a nice power delivery, that's why no matter what I'd always recommend a custom map even with AT.
Ok thanks Arthur very helpful Yes this is why im thinking of the PC skippy as without it I think its not going to be quite right...
well decision made, just won a PC3 on ebay for £118 that will get me up and running with some tuning options if I need too and then later PC5 and auto tune
has anyone added an external USB connector? I would love a little USB socket on the underside of the tail I can plug in to to adjust the PC3 anyone seen anything like it to buy?
