Rough Gearbox?

Discussion in 'Mods, Upgrades, Accessories and Products' started by sinewave, Mar 12, 2014.

  1. sinewave

    sinewave God Like

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    Well it seems I can't buy 10W-30 in Motul 300V so I guess it has to be Castrol Power 1 Racing then.
     
  2. Skippy79

    Skippy79 Active Member

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    I would get it somewhere else and wouldn't spend another penny there...

    hhhmmm lets see if I get this right..... fully synthetic heats up quicker, so it's thinner??? I always thought that 10W30 thinner was than 10W40, no matter whether it was semi or full synthetic.....

    I've always used full synthetic oil on my blades, 07, 09 and now 13....

    ask them for a K&N oil filter and see them flip out :D :D
     
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  3. Mad Matt

    Mad Matt Absolutely Bonkers Mad...

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    I know there more or less the same thing but which out of the two would you go for if given the choice because i can get either??

    Oh and btw, sorry Jay for taking over your thread:)
     
  4. Givover

    Givover God Like

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    Silkolene would be my choice its just like red wine and the bike lapped it up . I got it from a bike shop on Manchester road Warrington its not cheap but neither is a Blade engine .;)
     
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  5. Bloy182

    Bloy182 Active Member

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    I only say it seems thinner because at work i use the same funnel for filling up. When i use semi the oil takes longer to go down, so appears thicker. Stupid example and means absolutely nothing to do with how better or worse it is for the engine.

    Most manufactures are turning to 10w30, instead of 10w40, i believe its to do with keeping emissions down. what ever you hear or read you never know if its actually true. Most important thing is changing it a regular intervals, fully, semi, 10w30 or 10w40 you cant go wrong.
     
  6. mekanix

    mekanix Active Member

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    I use silkolene, engine loves it
     
  7. Givover

    Givover God Like

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    [​IMG][/URL][/IMG] Also don't worry about the Sport 4 its very very good stuff and I have just changed my oil on the 750 with this same stuff .its not had its first proper service yet so this is the stuff for the moment .Oil of course is very expensive but I don't mind changing every 2k miles as if you scoff an Indian meal with your wife its about the same price but gone down the tube ''so to say'' so good oil is well worth it.
     
  8. sps170373

    sps170373 Moderator
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    If the blade is meant to use semi synthetic why does the sticker on my frame recommend castrol power 1 racing which is fully synthetic! And that's what's been put in on every service so far by honda dealers! Me thinks they were talking out of their rusty sheriffs badge
     
  9. Bloy182

    Bloy182 Active Member

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    Maybe they had shit load of semi they wanted to get rid of lol
     
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  10. sps170373

    sps170373 Moderator
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  11. arthurbikemad

    arthurbikemad A very helpful Gent

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    Oil is a massive subject and hard to sum up in a few lines, the chart for viscosity shown in the Honda manual is based on many factors, ambient temperature being one of them, if the environment is very hot then 10-40 falls into that section more so than 10-30, if the range is suitable for 10-30 then your engine benefits from an oil that circulates in a way it can offer the best lubrication and lowest amount of drag for example it can offer, I say this as viscosity is based on flow rates at a given temperature so thus if a semi 10-30 was to flow faster or slower than a fully 10-30 the viscosity figures would be a waist of time! As I say and I can not stress enough oil is a long subject and to fully understand it would take pages of text, when manufactures produce an engine they often approach an oil manufacture like Castrol and set out the requirements and much more for them to develop an oil for that application some say it's just a scam for say Castrol to make money but more like they were commissioned for the job. If Honda had an oil refinery and lab etc then I am sure they would make there own ;)
    Not telling people how to suck eggs but just trying to put into a few lines some basic facts, another point is fully v semi, for a start a motorcycle oil is formulated for a wet clutch, if it were car oil then it can often contain additives that aid lubrication, those additives can indeed contaminate a wet clutch and cause it to slip, fully synth oil formulated for motorcycles will NOT cause clutch slip! Fully synth oil is the best lubrication for your motorcycle, high performance engines found in superbikes often need an oil that can withstand extremely high revs, temps, stresses and other factors found in an engine, this is where fully synth offers the best lubrication chemistry can offer. well that's my short ten pence worth....lol

    Oh, p.s one of my other bikes is supposed to have big problems on fully, it's another that is said by the manufactures to run fully synth but owners claim it causes clutch slip (rolls eyes) however I don't have a problem ;) anyway, I am NOT an expert with oil, I know a little but the real guys who fully understand it are proper hard core!

    I don't have a problem with any top brand oils, and semi is fine for the blade, however me, I choose to run a FS in mine, it's a hard one to justify, in simple terms I run the best oil money can buy and what's more if the manufacture recommends it then that's what I use :)
     
    #31 arthurbikemad, Mar 14, 2014
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2014
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  12. Mad Matt

    Mad Matt Absolutely Bonkers Mad...

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    Very interesting, ive never given oil much thought in the past, coming from Yamaha's i would just use Yamalube and not give it a seconds thought. I will without question use fully synthetic...
     
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  13. arthurbikemad

    arthurbikemad A very helpful Gent

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    Like I say mate it's highly complex, a simple subject like oil is a case of how deep does the rabbit hole go!

    As for SWs question about the gearbox, that's a good question, I could say a chap I know who builds some of the best engines around told me once if he could build a gearbox to be a slick as it is at 30k miles he would be a happy man! So why is SWs box so clunky? could be clutch drag caused by oil type etc, guess that's why we are on the oil subject....
    Some good suggestions already listed, chain tension, oil type, linkage setup, shift support?, rider ergonomics, rearset configuration etc etc
     
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  14. MrB

    MrB God Like

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    Beggars belief
     
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  15. arthurbikemad

    arthurbikemad A very helpful Gent

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    #35 arthurbikemad, Mar 14, 2014
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2014
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  16. Troys7012

    Troys7012 Active Member

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    Perhaps the clutch plates are just a bit sticky if the bikes been off the road for a few months or the cable req adjusting.
     
  17. Skippy79

    Skippy79 Active Member

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    chain tension is usually on the down shit when you feel the rear bouncing around, most people think the suspension isn't right, but 75% of the time is that the chain is too tight... for a trackbike you can afford a little more slack than on a road bike..

    If money wasn't a probkel I would be using motul 300V, but so see 80€ going down the drain every 5 track days is a little too much to my liking :D
     
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  18. arthurbikemad

    arthurbikemad A very helpful Gent

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    An age old argument, what's better, regular change of a cheap oil V long term use of expensive oil..
     
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  19. Skippy79

    Skippy79 Active Member

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    regular change of expensive oil ;)
     
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  20. Barstewardsquad

    Barstewardsquad God Like

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    So Shell say that semi-synth is a mix of mineral oil and fully synth.

    There are two main types of base oil: mineral and fully synthetic. Engine oils labelled as “part-” or “semi-synthetic” or “synthetic technology” contain a mixture of these two types.

    Best we don't put semi-synth in then if Hunts are right about fully synth messing things up ;)
     

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