Has anybody on here have a Brembo Master cylinder like this fitted? I've just fitted one to the track bike and would appreciate some input. Does adjusting it from 18 to 20 ratio make a big difference?
Yes it does, Brembo say 18 for track and 20 for the road, most just run 18 all the time, 20 feels more "woody" idea is you don't grab too much brake in an emergency when using a more wooden feel.
Gary does that clutch lever go through the throttle cables ok? Would it not have been better to put the cables above the master cyl,
us guys here on mainland europe call that the brake lever, our clutch is on the left here, is the throttle also on the left side in England? I have just replaced my 19X18 IRC M/C with one of these, I've had a RCS for years, but preferred my IRC as the feeling was a lot better, but after leaking 3 times in 1 year I binned it and bought another RCS( sold the other one)... on the lever there is a little rubber pad(next to the italian flag), use a flat screwdriver to giggle it out and the push the lever forward and use a screwdriver to turn the screw in the hole behind the rubber pad. when you turn it the color changes on the cylinder that goes into the M/C, when on "RED" your on 19X18 this is the best setting on the RCS IMO..... shout if you don't get what I mean ;-)
Brembo now has the new MCS system, as fitted to the 1199SL, this is a 16mm ver for the new M50 caliper but I have no doubt it will be in a 19mm if not already, been out for a little while now.
I have the RCS fitted and would agree with the above that the red setting is best. I found the 20 setting too progressive whereas I prefer an instant bite
19x18 requires less effort and 11% longer pull distance than the 19x20 MC. It will give more feel (better modulation) than the 19x20. 19x20 requires the most lever force but the shortest pull. More like a trigger or wooden feel, harder to modulate. This is what often seems odd as 20 is better for fade often a problem on track as the lever does not travel so far, 18 is better to modulate and gives more feel but is more prone to fade as more lever travel I.e the lever comes back to the bar.
I saw the really expensive billet brembo M/C a few weeks ago, something like 650€, some guy I know ordered one and it was in when I was collecting some stuff and my dealer showed me, looks the dogs b*ll*cks, but I wouldn't spend that much on one, and then put it on a aprilia
Good write ups in this thread. Arthur youre a genius all round Ive a 19x20 and to be honest I just grab it and hold on tight
together with this CarpiMoto - Brembo P4 32/36 Radial CNC Billet Monobloc Endurance Caliper 108mm mount and of coarse the left side as well CarpiMoto - Brembo P4 32/36 Radial CNC Billet Monobloc Endurance Caliper 108mm mount and I think you ahve some stopping power there
Not wanting to hijack the thread but I've recently fitted braided brake lines and they don't seem to have made any difference to the solidity of my brake lever. I can still pretty much pull the lever to the bar if I pull hard enough. Do you think there could be a problem with my MC?
More like contaminated or old fluid? Is it new, was it sealed? Or maybe still some air in the system best move would be buy some new branded fluid and drain it down, remove the callipers and be sure the pistons are back and all fluid is drained off, then start again. Some times cracking off the banjos and creep some fluid from them to remove any trapped air.
got to be with Arthur on this one, braided lines won't give you a harder lever on the M/C, it's down to air in the system. A oem M/C should get as firm as a brembo, or close to. I would love a set up like that on my bike Arthur, but don't think the missus would ;-)
It was Castrol Motorcycle DOT4. It was brand new, sealed and I even let it sit over night without the bottle being agitated to make sure that there weren't any bubbles in the fluid. When I pump up pressure on the MC and then crack open the bleed nipple on the caliper with a clear plastic tube on the nipple I'm getting clear fluid coming through with no bubbles.
It could very well be your master cylinder, OE ones are a bit of a lottery, some bikes come with decent ones & others are poor even when new. Aftermarket ones such as our Accossatos are hand made and individually inspected. Having said that your problems may be caused by other factors such as pads or the condition of your calipers. Before you go spending money on the expensive bits make sure your calipers are clean and working 100% and the pads are in good order. Oh and if you want billet cnc loveliness Accossato PRS Evo Adjustable Master Cylinder
