Dipped headlight, note that it can be dimmed or made brighter using the programming instructions which is basically using the full beam switch. Side view other side Normal full beam. When I fit properly its important you can see the LED if you want to program it brighter or dimmer or if you want to switch unit off thereby making it back to standard, all done using the full beam switch. I am changing wiring to all black wires so any viewed wiring doesn't stand out.
Programming of the “Doppellicht” Module V3.0x Turn over into programming mode: 1. Ignition ON ** 2. Press the flashlight button within 3 seconds for a moment 3. The integrated LED will flash 6 times to announce the programming-mode 4. The high beam will show up for 1 second and after that it went off **some models don’t have a light switch. The light will start automatically together with starting the engine. For those models, please start the engine and wait for the low beam to come up. After that the time period for the setup will start. Decrease brightness: 1. Press the flashlight button 1 time -(equal to a mice click) 2. The integrated LED will flash 1 time 3. Now hold the flashlight button pressed – the brightness will decrease Increase brightness: 1. Press the flashlight button 2 times -(equal to a mice double click) 2. The integrated LED will flash 2 times 3. Now hold the flashlight button pressed – the brightness will increase Save the selected brightness: 1. Press the flashlight button 3 times -(equal to a mice triple click) 2. The end of the programming mode and also the saving of the actual brightness will be shown by 6 times flashing of the high beam and the integrated LED The high beam can be adjusted from 0V to Batteriepower Voltage. The time it will need to go from 0% to 100% brightness takes around 2 minutes! It is intended this way to allow fine tuning oft he brightness. The normal high beam will work like normal, no matter of the dimmed brightness. To turn the Module offline / online please proceed as follow: 1. Ignition OFF 2. Keep flashlight button pressed 3. Ignition ON ** 4. Release flashlight button 5. After 2 seconds the high beam light will go OFF or ON, this depends on the status it has before ** some models don’t have a light switch. The light will start automatically together with starting the engine. For those models, please start the engine and wait for the low beam to come up. After that the time period for the setup will start. The actual value of the brightness will be saved. To reactivate the dimmed high beam light, just proceed this steps again. A onetime saved value will not get lost, even if you remove the module from power. Also not if you put the module 2 years on a rack in your garage ;-) It will only be changed if you do the programming again. The Module is designed for a normal high beam lamp of max. 12V / 60Watts.
I need to do this Do you have a link and a wiring diagram I could follow as I am a complete novice when it come to electrics
http://www.jn-elektronik.de/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Programming-and-wiring-of-Doppellicht-V3.0.pdf I am not using relay at moment but thats up to individuals. I also linked the original earth wires that go to the bulbs and on to the unit (masse ). I am going to link the full beam relay supply to the dipped beam connection so the wiring is thus uprated to feed two lights on dipped beam (Abblendlicht). The wiring on mine is black/white stripe is dipped beam and Black is ground (earth) to left-hand light. Black/Blue stripe is full beam Black is ground, this is the wiring to the bulbs and I simply cut into these to do the job. 2006 Blade.
Cheers for that mate, it looks good, I was expecting to see a noticeable difference in the two lights, but it's well within a good tolerance, will def' get this unit. Bit puzzled by the 'programming mode', I was under the impression that this was a simple unit that was wired in to the existing setup and simply switched on the left side headlight (with reduced voltage) along with the normal dipped right side light and that was that. It's obviously more than that, am I right in saying that it's unit that can be fitted to various bikes to give a few lighting options. I assume you've fitted it somewhere near/within the headlight units.
Not finally fitted yet but as close to the headlights as possible for me, some suggest under tank cover. I just want to make sure I can see LED if needed. Basically when the module sees a voltage, ie dipped headlight (ignition on) then you have 3 seconds or so to operate full beam to get it into programming mode, then you can select for dimming or brightening or module off/on. Simple when you get your head round it really, it comes with around 40% applied to full beam side which is as my pics show. HTH
I'm getting confused now. Why do you want to see the LED? Are you talking just about setting it up? You don't have to go through some programming mode every time you start the f***** up do you? I assume you connect it up pretty near where you'd like to fix it up, set it up, then fix it in place and that's that. I took the tank cover off the other day (rr7) there ain't much room under there.
Its if you want to turn off for mot and suchlike or just brighten /dim a little. Not essential but I am a little anal like that. It takes around 2 minutes to cycle from full brightness to off so its very adjustable. Nothing wrong with fit and forget though.
Gotcha. I like add-ons to be super neat too. I was rooting about near the headlights looking for a place to site a sat-nav, prob' has to be just below or to the left of the dash/clock. The light unit looks pretty small, it could sit on the central metal spine under the dash, fixed with super velcro ?
The void under the spine in front of speedo is a good place to hide it, just enough room or there is the forward area between the lights is ok too. Easy for me as I can do it with the lights on a table in front of me as the nosecone is off
Yeah the void is good but a bugger for future access, near the bank angle sensor also good but still a bugger without removing the nose. That said MOT is only once a year. Where did you order the unit, I've just tried the link to purchase the unit but it's not working.
[email protected] I sent Jens an email direct as the address above, cost me 56 euro including a Paypal surcharge. Came within 4 days too, nice guy to deal with.
I have used crimped connectors but if extending any wiring I would solder and use shrink wrap. The module itself will be put in a clear bag or similar and mounted with connector downhill so to avoid any chance of water ingress. HTH.
Just worked out a easy way without the need to cut any existing wiring. Found on ebay H7 bulb adaptors. Unplug connector from light fixings and plug adaptors in one end male to female and vice versa. The only thing you would cut into and modifty would be the adaptors. Only posting this as if you ever wanted to revert back just unplug adaptors and back to standard.
Was gonna do that but its not an H7 connection on a RR6, there is an adapter on the bulb which is required to clamp the bulb into headlight. Anyhow you can turn the module off and you're back to standard. The pins are wider apart.
I'm getting more confused by the minute My understanding is that the l/h/side unit (as sat on the bike) is a high beam H7 bulb with a H7 fitment connector in the reflector, hence why you can't just put a H4 in there and hence why 'iang27' came up with his solution of cutting down a H4 bulb to a H7 shape and then tapping a feed from the r/h/side bulb to the l/h/side bulb. The 'doppelicht' unit as I see it takes a feed from the r/h/side bulb (as sat on the bike) and feeds it at a lower voltage to the left hand 'high beam' bulb therefore giving you twin lights and when high beam is required it switches off that feed and switches on the normal feed to the /l/h/side high beam bulb, correct? So where does this adaptor come in? 'iang27' doesn't mention this adaptor? Need more pics Frosty mate, maybe you've got it all wired up now? cheers.
