Changing oil 2008 1000rr??

Discussion in 'Maintenance' started by Johnathan, Jul 12, 2014.

  1. Johnathan

    Johnathan New Member

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    Hi lads. I was going to change my own oil and oil filter. What oil and oil type would you recommend / should i e using? And how much will i need? Easy job??? Any advice appreciated. Cheers!!!!
     
  2. scooby

    scooby Elite Member

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    takes about 3.5l with an oil+filter change.not 100% sure on spec but think it's 10w-40,but it will tell you in the manual/handbook (and the amount you need)
     
  3. Johnathan

    Johnathan New Member

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    Cheers mate. Thanks for your help. I cant find the manual :s but ill have a go with that. Thanks again!
     
  4. bonjo

    bonjo Active Member

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    do you have the owner's handbook? Just follow the oil change instructions.
    Be careful:the body panels loosening is fiddly.

    RR8 came with castrol 10w30 sticker on the engine, you can also consider 10w40. Now don't ask about synthetic or mineral. You can search any bike forum and find many discussions on this. I personally use full synthetic.

    I suggest allow the oil to fully drain (1~2 hrs). this is worth about 100ml oil.

    Put 2.85 lts in, run the engine and do the usual oil leak checks.
    Turn off the engine and have a long long coffee break. Check the oil level. I found the about 150 ml of oil takes you from min to max of the dip stick.

    Make sure you do not over fill the engine!

    good luck
     
  5. scooby

    scooby Elite Member

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    manual states 3l with filter change 10w-30
     
  6. sps170373

    sps170373 Moderator
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  7. HRCTrev09

    HRCTrev09 Well-Known Member

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    Hi mate I followed the manual to the letter the first time I changed the oil and its a real pain and unnecessary removing and refitting all the panels!!:eek:
    A Honda mechanic recommended this short cut, just remove the lower cowl (belly pan) remove right middle cowl fastener and use something (small polystyrene block or wad of blue roll) just to carefully wedge the fairing out from the engine to get access to the oil filter!
    warm the engine up a 4-5 mins max! Drain oil from sump and oil filter boss! I use Silkolene pro4 10w30 Energy & K&N oil filter! remember to part fill your new oil filter with oil before fitting and coat the filter seal with oil as well! then fit, torque up filter and sump bolt, refit lower cowl, fasten it all up!

    job done ;)
     
  8. scooby

    scooby Elite Member

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    why do you part fill your filter? never ever done that,or heard anyone else say it,and i've done quite a few oil in changes.....
     
  9. Souleh

    Souleh Active Member

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    I use 10w40 Rock Oil and a genuine honda filter

    Ive always done it, just the way I was taught. Thought it was to prevent an airpocket in there just but never questioned it.
     
  10. Scott

    Scott Active Member

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    That's what it does. Think Zx 10 aren't happy if their not filled in the filter
     
  11. Souleh

    Souleh Active Member

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    Was when I had my zx6 I was told to do it, the air bubble can upset the pressure and throw up a warning light
     
  12. HRCTrev09

    HRCTrev09 Well-Known Member

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    I just think it's good practice so the filter is primed for the first dry start!
    I know some say it's a waste of time and some say it's essential but it only takes seconds to do and it saves your oil pump having to saturated the filter on first start up!! As most of any damage/wear is done on start up I just like to help prevent that as much as possible it also help with initial oil pressure (i just think of pressure washer spitting and screaming until it all primed with water and ready to use) I know it ain't the same but having air in the system can't be good :eek: it's only 0.2 of a litre difference in the amount of oil needed when changing the filter as well but that's still a dry pocket on first start up!
    Anyhoo it certainly won't do any harm filling the filter but not filling it might do harm:eek: I know what I prefer to do ;)
     
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  13. TheRamJam

    TheRamJam Well-Known Member

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    Never used to pre fill the oil filter.

    Will do from now on though. Cheers dude!
     
  14. The.kickboxer

    The.kickboxer Active Member

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    This would be OK if the filter thread was vertical but as it is horizontal, the part fill can only be minimal, unless you want it all leaking out while you fit it. Therefore it's going to leave a large air pocket anyway.
     
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  15. Souleh

    Souleh Active Member

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    Nah it does rightly soak in and you dont loose that much, sure a little but rotating it also keeps it inside.
     
  16. HRCTrev09

    HRCTrev09 Well-Known Member

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    When filling the oil filter its only to saturated the fibre filter inside the canister it's just a small amount at a time till air bubbles stop not right to the top! But because it fits horizontal you might lose a touch a wee bit kitchen roll should see you alright ;)
     
  17. scooby

    scooby Elite Member

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    so let em get this right,you fill the filter to avoid an air pocket,yet you can only put a minimal amount in due to it fitting horizontal? doesn't make any sense to me,you still have air in the system?.lubing the seal i understand (and do) but of every change i've done,engine i've stripped,engine builder rebuilt,theres never been any mention of it.but,if it makes you happier,and believe it helps reduce engine wear....,then fair enough.
     
  18. TeZ

    TeZ New Member

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    I think the point is, why not.
     
  19. ninja

    ninja Active Member

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    I've always pre-filled my oil filters. I would have thought anyone who cares about their engine would do it.
     
  20. M3NTALIST

    M3NTALIST New Member

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    Quite a lot of cars recommend turning the engine over without it firing (I usually disconnect the crank sensor) until the oil light goes out. This allows oil to circulate to all parts, gets it up to pressure and gets rid of the air introduced from filter change at 100rpm rather than 900+rpm. Because my bike ticks over at 1,100 and chokes at 1,700 I use the same method, only it's that bit easier because bikes have a kill switch to allow slow turnover.

    I started doing this with subarus as recommended on forums because they noticed that a high percentage of engine failures where straight after a conventional engine oil change.

    It might help, it might not...............but it won't do any harm.

    Andy B
     

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