I'm getting my Japanese/Thai spec blade converted to Euro spec this weekend. I'm fitting a Bazzaz Z-Fi and having it set up on a dyno on the 27th of this month. Just wondering what kind of Horsepower (at the back wheel) I should expect for a Euro spec bike? (Bike has a Yoshi R77 slip on and the Bazzaz Z-Fi. Standard apart from that).
160+ but depends on many things. temp, humidity etc... and Dyno to dyno have different loses. mine made 165BHP Approx at the back wheel. I'm happy with that. It's running a Bazzaz, K&N filter and R77 exhaust Other's will make more and some a little less. As The bike has 180-185 at the crank a loss of around 20BHP is expected.
I'm at dynojet Preston now mine has just made 173.4 Leo Vince and pipercross filter 02 sensor removed pc5 as said I ain't too concerned about peak more fuelling
oh and whats the difference between A thai/Japanese spec bike? also,if it's ona dyno over there,you'd expect to see a lower figure as it will be so much warmer+humid there (not sure if the humidity matters or not?)
is it? I've never heard that before.so you saying my 214bhp blade with a filter and can isn't accurate?
Thanks guys. I'll be happy with 160 HP (or more). At least then I know the mods have worked and I'm well above the Thai/Japanese spec. The dyno is in an air con room so the temperature wont matter much, not sure if the humidity makes any difference or not. As for the Japanese spec bikes here, they are limited to 180KM/h (by ECU), they have much smaller velocity stacks and the left side ram air tube is blocked on both ends. I picked up a new Euro ECU with 4 blank code keys and the velocity stacks for about 600 pounds. Many blade owners here just cheat the ECU and beat the 180km/h limiter but they are still down about 30+ HP from the Euro spec. For what I'm paying for the ECU and the conversion I'm getting a lot of extra horses for my money. I'll put some pics up on Sunday showing the conversion to Euro spec. Interesting to see the Jap and Euro velocity stacks side by side and the way Honda Japan block the airbox off.
Don't see the point of them doing that and it's normal figures for a blade really they not saying it's 180-190 .... As said as long as fuelling is Bob on im happy I won't use all those horses anyway ha ha
I was actually telling s lie he said last blade he done was 173 he wasn't on about mine ha ha but still impressed it's 171 baffle out and 1 bhp down baffle in but said really similar power in and out all through range
If the company is selling the results, do Dyno's have to be calibrated like a weighing machine or petrol pump? Mike.
not in the same way no,they are monitered by customs/weights+measures etc. they aren't selling the numbers,they are tuning your bike to run correctly,the number read out is a by product essentially
Had mine mapped last week at Pete's Dyno (OTC in Widnes). 171bhp at wheel with K&N air filter, O2 eliminator, full Akrapovic race exhaust, standard engine. So it looks like having the full headers doesn't really change much to a 'Slip-on' exhaust?
The Colder the weather the better for a good Dyno read out especially if the big fan feeding the front of the Bike is sucking directly from outside. As said good fueling and a smooth curve are what's important not outright figures. The same Bikes Power Run done on a Hot August afternoon will be a good few BHP down on what it would achieve right now all things being equal.
Mine was 165 and that was with a full yoshi. Went well wen riding tho. Mhp said factory heads are really just as good as upgraded ones
