Total myth! Don't know where it started but the blade should be running FS, you can run SS if you like, take a look in Ope Oils section for more info rather than me rant my fingers to death on the subject, I hear this more and more drives me crazy...lol
Ha, well tbh mate no reason a fully should cause clutch slip, car oils have adatives that can cause a wet clutch in a bike to slip, any oil formulated for a bike should be fine with a wet clutch, cheap, fully, semi all should be fine with a wet clutch. I have had odd ball bikes that have mysteriously suffered from clutch slip from certain specs of oil, but normally changing oil to solve said problem is only masking the real reason why the clutch is failing imo. I will say that any quality semi or full in the blade is fine, and read the oilman thread for more info, I have even asked Honda directly a few weeks back, head office too, just so I have it in writing about grades of oil for the blade. NOT what some workshops have been telling customers.!
Haynes manual spec says 10/40 I only use it weeks ends when weather good, don't do a lot of miles if that makes any difference
I just read the oilman thread some good info there. What I got from it: 10w 40 offers the best protection for your engine but it's a thicker than the 30. The lower the oil grade the better the engine performs as its thinner allowing it to spin easyer. If you run a 10w 30 it should be fully syn to offer the best protection but on a 10w 40 you can get away with semi syn if you must.
From 2006 Honda started recommending a 10-30 I always put it down to the higher RPM of the new engine, I know many who run low grade 10-40 oils with no apparent problems, I say apparent as like I said in the oilman thread you would have to check things scientifically to see the real truths of oil. With out having an hour long convo on it I will just say I would not have a problem running a quality semi 10-40, if I were racing a newer bike Id use the best grade 10-30 fully in the newer bikes, pre that Id still use a 10-40 fully. The Honda spec covers a wide range of oils, all modern oils that fall into that spec are fine. Motul xx00 and 300v are one of the best oils money can buy imo.
i've always used 10-40.. except once where I tried the Castrol racing 10-30.. probably a mental thing, but felt the gears were notchier etc.. perhaps the cold weather up here in the North Pole suits the 40 better..
But if it's cold then you should be running a thinner oil? It's true that a thicker oil may well give less transmition noise, I am not so sure about the clunk, the clunk is just the gearbox taking up slack once the gear is engaged, the clutch drags when the pack is open so once 1st is selected the free play "slaps" forward until the slack is taken up and the clutch stops spinning while the pack is open, if anything a thinner oil should cause less drag and less of a slap.
yes totally agree but its probably just a mental thing.. thought id try the 30 once and was just paranoid I think
lol, well on those long and winding buitiful Scottish roads as you work your way through the box banging up into the limiter Id of said a 10-30 is more you
