Ok I want to get more out go my RR5, I've recently seen the panigale 899 and I'm smitten, however I need another £6k and not quite ready to part with that cash. So I need my RR5 to tell me it is worthy & I don't need a Ducati. Being a newbie to mods and upgrades I have heard and read most of the possible upgrades but don't really know what I get as a result of the changes So my sprockets are 15/42. Which is the -1 +2 reccommended. Flapper mod as been removed. I want to improve mid range power between 4k rpm's and don't know where to go next. Is it bst carbon wheels? Is it slip on race can? Is it a full system exhaust system with a power commander? Is it a quick shifter? After market spark plugs and k&n filters. I feel I tend to opt for one higher gear through corners so I get a more balanced throttle control. Where do I go from here ?
I had an RR5 and got some awesome power out of it (166 bhp at the rear wheel and 88b/ft). I stuck with the standard header pipes, fitted a Quill GP1 can, did the airbox flapper mod, fitted a K&N filter, a power commander and then crucial thing was a full dyno session. It was a properly good bike and the mid range was superb on it. Carbon wheels will be superb and probably make a massive difference, but they ain't cheap. A quick shifter is great fun and makes a massive difference when racing, but on the road is more of a luxury and not really going to make a huge impact. Still epic though!
Filters, power commander and map will give more power, perhaps a full system to help Carbon wheels will help quicken the steering and help acceleration
Yes thinking carbon wheels will be too expensive. So a k&n filter sounds good. As a stand alone what will achieve, is it purely for a smoother delivery of power? Which power commander is recommended? Is it easy to fit? I will have a look at the quill gp1 can
The K&N filter basically allows for a smoother air flow and also feeds more air in. You can use either a power commander 3 or 5. They both essentially do the same job, but the 5 is smaller and has a few extra features, which you really don't need. All you need one for is to ensure that the fuel and air mix are correct once the modifications are done. You can fit one yourself, probably takes about an hour and a bit of patience. I would still go for a dyno session to programme the power commander once you have got the power commander and filter fitted. I am not sure if Quill are still going, as I had heard that they had stopped, but just checked and their website seems to be all up and running. The GP1 can was LOUD, as in properly loud. Sounded amazing, but even with the baffle in it was something else. Without it, it was immense!!
My requirements from a can is something that sounds deep and grunts but not exceed 99-102db as I want to a few track days this year. Plus don't want it loud. So, correct me if I am wrong, the k&n filter will change the air/fuel mix and to mange this and improve the power banding a pc3 or 5 is needed. At this point will the bike be rideable to get it to a place to get the dyno done? If I then get a can another Dino session would be needed. I've seen talk of maps here, is this what the Dyno session does. ?
I put k&n's in and didn't notice a big difference to be honest and I have read a few places that on outlet model they have a very good free flowing filters as stock so I would say put that money else where if it was me
Yes, essentially any change to the way the air enters through the filter will ideally need to be changed via a power commander. Similarly, an exhaust will make a difference too. the bike will be more than rideable without a power commander with any of the mods done, but it will ensure that the fuel air mix is correct once changes are made. Dynojet produce certain maps for say a CBR1000rr5 with a ******* air filter and ******** exhaust, which you can then download, however, they are not exact and hence a dyno session will smooth it out properly and ensure you have the correct mix at all areas of the rev range. As Martin says, a K&N filter isn't necessarily the best and sometimes the stock filter is just as good. I run a stock filter in my race bike and it produces the same result as a K&N filter. As for exhausts, the world is your oyster, but for a great service and custom built can that complies with all noise regs, have a look at MHP exhausts. Mark Hill is a top bloke who can perform miracles with steel and titanium.
The RR6/7 came with a 42 rear sprocket from factory... but many add another 2 to that, and go 44... would it be worth going all the way to 44 on your bike? Would probably need a speedo healer though! As others have said, the air filters in the RR4/5/6/7 are free-flowing enough, the only reason to get a K&N is that they last longer. A decent aftermarket exhaust should make a nice difference, not least because it allows you to junk the H-VIX (exhaust valve). Also being much lighter (and given the exhaust is so high up) the weight difference is noticeable too. On my RR7 I fitted an Akrapovic end can and link pipe... although the bike sounded much better, it was lumpy around the 4-6k mark... getting back on the throttle on a roundabout was a total lottery! I've since fitted a PC5 and using the stock maps (1 for baffle in, 1 for baffle out) it is MUCH better and smoother. Another oft-overlooked mod is the Gilles Shift Support... depending on how lead-footed you are, it can make a massive difference to the positivity of the gear change... could make your bike feel brand new again!
Yes a 44 tooth might be worth doing, do I need to replace the chain? Is the there a light weight 530 chain? I will search the forum on exhaust and PCV. Getting it properly mapped seems to be the key here. What is a bazaz unit? Like the Pcv but better ??
Bazzaz is as you say like a PCV but better. It can offer traction control interface and their own quick shifters. Stick with a PCV. Don't bother with a different chain. You would have to go to a 520 chain to get lighter, but then you end up replacing them more often. Go for a decent chain and sprocket kit instead. A dyno session is pretty much essential though, as it keeps your engine happy. which is a good thing.
If anyone can give myself a few pointers for mods for my RR9 it would be awfie appreciated, chain and sprockets are ordered, qs being ordered, got leo vince on, what else does anyone suggest? sorry if am jumpin the thread Daz
am a noob where modding the bikes is concerned, ask me for modding my subaru, now that's a different thing all together, but still a blade modding beginner
Power is nothing without control dude... Suspension set up professionally, should only be around £60 and will transform it ! If you haven't already, get some braided lines and quality pads on her... And then if you want more mid range and horses, you could aways stick a RR6/7 motor in or at least the head !
