Plan to install my quickshifter this week after work... Do I need to remove the airbox ,etc to get to the coil pack wires or can I go in from behind the radiator? Service manual states to remove the side fairings ... but that's for spark plug removal. I don't want to remove the plugs or coils ... just get to the connectors
When I fitted one to an 08+ blade I left the fairings on but removed the tank and airbox. There is a rubber shroud, which if you pull back it exposed the top of the coils. The left and right plugs are partially covered by the frame rails and are a bit of a pig to get at, but take your time and it's all relatively straightforward.
Yes did mine this way too. Its also a good time to do the block-offs for the emissions if that hasn't been done yet.
But won't that stop the exhaust popping and crackling on the over run? Although IIRC it can help with stabilising the idle after fitment of aftermarket exhaust...
Near side plug was a bitch to get at on a 2012 as the connector points under the frame. Had to loosen the fairing so the air duct moved a bit.
I found it much easier to remove fairings and intake ducts, can be done without but if its a 12 removing the fairing is soooo much easier than an 08.
Just had a look at service manual... didn't realise how much shit is under that air cover lol ... Looks like a good couple hours work to get to the coil tops!
OMG... I'll be doing exactly the same this weekend ;-( Yes, couple of hours at least. Couple of cuts to the fingers. Couple hundred of curses... ;-)
It's not to bad once you get to removing the air box there are two pipes one at front middle one on right side to disconnect it's all quite simple just take your time and it will be ok it looks more daunting than it is Also an empty fuel tank helps I always removed it as you get much more space to work
Just had a look at service manual... didn't realise how much shit is under that air cover lol ... Looks like a good couple hours work to get to the coil tops Cheers... I work fast and am experienced so will be fine. Just time isn't on my hands at the moment ... the tank will be empty by the time I get home.
Oh well, maybe with the coils/plugs exposed, I'll change the latter at the same time. My mileage, 11k, is well below the spark plug replacement interval (16k), but I don't want to waste all those hours some time in October ;-)
I'll have to double-check the Haynes manual this evening. If you're right... the plugs might wait... another 4 years? ;-)
Ok, so I did this last night. Easy enough job, just time consuming and fiddly at the coil packs. I took some pictures so will explain the procedure as I'm sure it will help someone in future. You can go in from the top (under air box) or the bottom (behind the radiator) if you already have the fairings off. If not then go in from the top as it will save fairing panel removal. First remove the seat covers and riders seat (two bolts) and the tank cover (four bolts): Say hello to all the electrics ... Undo the blue, black, white and brown plugs. Undo the upper fuel injector plugs (grey) in the air box and also the IAT sensor plug (also grey) Remove the six screws holding the ECU tray to the airbox and carefully pull the tray back and over to rest on the frame, and remove the six upper airbox screws which gives you this: Shove some paper towel down the throttle bodies to stop dirt getting in and remove the two screws to remove the air filter, then remove the throttle body bellmouths (six screws): The air box will be loose now, but there is three breather hoses to disconnect, one on the front, one to the right side and one to the rear right side. You will see them if you wiggle the airbox out slowly. You will also need to carefully prise the air box away from the ram air tubes. Once the air box is out, peel back the rubber cover and you will be greeted with this: Now to put the QS sub loom into place... it is pretty straight forward, but getting to cylinders 1 and 4 requires a bit of faffing. I landed up bending the ram air tubes up slightly to give the required space, just be prepared for a few cuts and grazes Route the QS loom from right to left, that way the output plug can be sited just behind the side fairing on gearshift side (useful to get at in the event of problems with the QS - you can use the bypass plug easily then) ... Just a case of putting it all back together now. All straight forward although getting the airbox back in is a bit tricky with the ram air tubes, just be patient and work the rubber covers around them one side at a time. Worthwhile giving the air filter a quick clean out before it goes back in... this was mine despite having done 9k miles: Control box installed (just needs earth from battery, and plug you routed earlier. Sensor installed on rod: All done ready for road testing: Any questions ask
If you need a shorter rod mate, just do what I did with the old Gixer rod you have and cut it down by 10mm from either end or take 20mm from the bottom (I just noticed the top has the flats for the spanner). Never thought about it earlier! Doh!
