I asked some advice from the guys at Opie about changing the viscosity from 10w30 to 10w40 from and got this response' A 10w-40 is fine, the reason Honda recommend a 10w-30 is for fuel economy (a marginal difference between the two grades), until recently they recommended a 10w-40 for all of their bikes. In many cases the bike engine did not change when they changed from a 10w-40 to 10w-30, so many bikes started to use oil' mine uses a small amount of oil so hopefully this will resolve it
These are my first impression for changing to Silkolene Pro 4 10W40. Note I have changed from Castrol Racing 10W30 with 6000-7000 hard miles on it. Engine vibes especially higher frequencies seem to be dampened. Engine braking seems to be reduced? but also smoother. First gear clunk still there but the 'lurch' is reduced Consumption of oil per 1000 miles TBC The bike feels generally newer and more ‘tight’ All these are IMO and are probably mostly just due to having new oil
Always used to use Castrol gps in my RR6 but have been using Rock guardian last 3 oil changes deffo does the job
I've gone for Motul 5100 in my RR3 again this year. Barely used any last year over 4000 miles and 5l with a filter currently less than £31 on a well known auction site.
It says Philips on my telly but he doesn't own it! I've fell for the castrol sticker as well. I'll be shifting to motul semi or silkolene. Bike is very buzzy and is causing problems , clunky. I'll let you know if there is instant result
In 80k I've used that many different oils depending on what was available and none appeared to make any difference!
That stuffs meant to be the daddy!! Ive still have a drum of rock oil that will do the rest of this season then maybe get a drum of 300V. Might need a mortgage tho lol
Thread revival! Had Silkolene Comp 4 10W40 in my blade but serviced it today and changed to Castrol Power 1 racing 10W30 and have noticed the gear changes are far smoother. Virtually no clunk into first. Very impressed!
Wow. Just read this whole thread and am baffled. I guess we in the states are different in a way that we send our oil off to be tested after normal use intervals. I have been sending my oil out for testing after 300 miles 600 1000 1500 3000 and so on. It's the only way to tell if the oil your using has not had a breakdown in viscosity, shear strength and also if your oil gets contaminated an is acidic. An overly rich running motor will contaminate your oil quicker than you can imagine. If you truely want to see how well your oil is doing no matter what brand you use you must have it tested so that you know from your riding habits at this many miles the oil will virtually stop protecting your engine. Amsoil full synthetic motorcycle oil is far above most synthetics when it comes to shear strength and longevity. The next equivalent oil that has been tested at different intervals is the Repsol 4T 10w-30 HMEOC which is what I run. It had the lowest viscosity breakdowns between oil testing intervals and I find it keeps my bike cooler than Amsoil does. But here is a good starting point for anyone questioning what oil to run. 1. If you track day your bike and ride hard most of the time your crazy not to run full synthetic. 2. If your just out riding casually and tooling around maybe getting in it once in awhile then run semi synthetic because it's cheaper. But understand synthetic oils keep your motor cleaner from sludge and other buildup over time that help performance. Most likely the oil you are running will not allow your engine to fail unless you never change it of course but synthetic oils leave less engine sludge and gunk buildup that conventional oils end up leaving behind and buildup in your motor, decreasing fuel economy and power output. People say oh I have ran it in all my bikes. Yea your motor didn't blow up over the life but you got crappy mileage and your engine produces less power because of sludge buildup left from running conventional oil. Just because your motor doesn't blow up with oil you run doesn't mean it's the best oil for total performance in many different areas. But your choice. 3. Most important. All riding conditions,bike setup etc will affect your oils Preformance. Sure good synthetic oil may last 5000 miles but if your running bike to rich the oil will turn acidic quick and that's bad. So TEST your oil people. Only costs about 20 -25 US dollars. But then you will know how your chosen oil is doing. For me I have tested most all Name brand professional full synthetic oils on the market at many different riding conditions. Repsol 4T 10w-30 full synthetic beat them all in my testing. Cheers
Got to agree with Als comments totally. On my 4th Blade now, never used anything over than semi syn, completed well over 200K miles, day in day out, cold/hot starts, road, track, tour, never missed a beat, never had a shim check, and it was the same on several CBR6s in the 90s and only the 10 plate needed top ups between services, and that equated to about 300mil in 4K. If it was that critical, I guess Honda would only spec fully syn, but they don't. Still its down to owners preference, and that's the beauty of choice.
same as mine! love this stuff, ordered a pciii, k&n air filter and an O2 eliminator and gonna get it mapped in october as the fuelling is glitchy at low speeds
8 pages reading to make a decision on bloody oil. Just bought anything for the car. Was running Motul 300 this year but at £17/litre to top up, I've gone for the 10/40 5100 to see if it burns any less. £32 for 5 litres I worked for a Jap car manufacturer as we moved from 10/40 to 10/30 and we started soon after with oil burning... Just saying
You do know the first number deals with cold effectiveness and the second deals with how hot the oil can go before losing desired effectiveness? For example the oil choices everyone including yourself are between 10/30 & 10/40 weight oils the 40 weight oil can handle hotter ambient temps for hotter climates such as southern mainland areas Europe. IIRC the 30 weight can handle ambient temps upto 30deg. Also the 10 part of the weight handles down to -20deg.