Hi, I would like to remove stupid ABS system from my Honda, but completely. So I am in search for advice's, photos or videos how to remove it without to much problems. I saw some guys did it, but for me was not enough explained so if you can do it here again with much more details so everybody else can do it. Please put the list of things which have to be modified or changed to still have bike working nice but without ABS. Thanks in advance
I've just completed a full removal, pumps/wiring/ecu the full works! It's a completely stand alone system so you shouldn't have any issues, your need to make a new fixing point for the battery strap! And your better off completely sucking all the fluid out before you start.
If your removing the complete loom, there's 2 wires your need from the main loom that connect to the starter solenoid and go off to a connector block under the tank, I stripped mine out and then made a little sub-loom. You will still have your ABS light that will stay on even with the system completely removed! I've now fixed this by isolating the main feed in the clocks... Once you get going it's really not that bad, Your also need to remove all bodywork and rear subframe....
I had no issues with mine but wanted to upgrade brakes and remove a shed load of weight so it was a no brainer! I've no regrets what so ever and now running a brake system that's top notch! And without any issues or brake bleeding costs! If you were in the UK I would be more than happy to remove for a days labour. Good luck
I think I am about 1800 km from you, but anyway thanks a lot for offering help The biggest problem I feel is that stiffness of brake lever is changing during driving and that pisses me off a lot Do you maybe know how much weights whole ABS system?
I'm considering removing mine at some point too, confident enough to do it but under the impression the abs light is extinguished when the ecu unit is removed, i take it this is not the case.
Correct, even with the system completely removed the light stays on, as it can't pick up any signal that the systems all working ok, it's like a default system and the only way is to isolate the feed in the clocks, or fit second hand set with no ABS light..
Yes still got the ABS.. I'll help if I can , only got a basic meter though. I need the bike daily so if I need to really get stuck in I might not be able to accommodate. Let me know what to do, if easy I'll give it a go
Yeh tried to work this one out myself without any joy, it must get its signal from someplace but without the circuit diagram and the whole system sat in front of you it's hard to work out. I'm sure someone can come up with a plausible answer and perhaps save any agro with dismantling the clocks! I'm also guessing the pin outs will be different with ABS clocks to non ABS?
The circuit board inside of the abs clocks are completely different with respect to the area of the abs led inclusion. There is only one new additional wire added to the clocks on an abs equipped bikes, the wire coming up from the abs ecu. Which was why originally I thought the abs ecu would fully control the operation of the abs led but this is not the case. Meaning the removal of the abs ecu would just mean the light would never get activated as the signal would never be able to be sent from the ecu to the dash. The abs led is fed directly off the power wire coming out of the fusebox, once this feed is inside the dash it branches off and lights up everything in the cluster and it does its self test thingy. At this point the abs led is constantly on until the bike moves above 4mph and the abs system verifies all is good in Honda c-abs land and it them does something with the wire going up to the dash in order to turn the abs led off. This is most likely done via a relay built into the dash and either the ecu feeds the relay with a positive voltage between probably 5v-12v or an earth feed in order to activate the solenoid and cut the normal flow of power to the abs led thereby turning it off, then if a fault occurs in the abs system the feed from the abs ecu is removed and the abs led defaults to allow normal flow of power again and turn the abs light on.
Gentlemen, would you still say the general consensus is to stick with non-ABS? I know this is not an option with new blades (and we all know the can of worms for and against etc).
