Hi, I need some help. Just fitted a PC3 to my 2006 blade, European model Akrapovic end can O2 Eliminator map installed. If the bike is left for a few hours it takes 4 long cranks to get it running. New fully charged Yuasa battery fitted. Lights on the PC3 do the boot up night rider thing during each attempted start. Cleaned contacts of cutout switch, paralleled in the old battery still no joy. It's a pain because I have to wait hours between starts to see if the problem is still there. Any help would be much appreciated . Thanks.
Good info from another forum, might try to copy the zero map for 0% throttle at low revs. Anyone know the max revs the starter can turn the engine at?
I tried twisting the throttle but didn't help. What setup / map do you have? After it starts once, it can be switched off, then will start first time with no problems. I need to have a look on my old Laptop to compare my map against the zero map at low revs / 0% throttle.
Flapper, pair mod,standard aircleaners, leo SBK ( no exup valve ) and co resistor. If I remember ok I use the map for a termignoni end can but not sure, the map is on a small notebook, I will have a look tomorrow I tried different maps from the PC site till I found one that was running great. The start problem occured on all maps I tried. All maps have a zero at 0% TP so that cant be the problem. I always have to twist the throttle a bit at a cold start, when she is warmed up it starts ok but after an hour or so i need to twist it again. searched hours on the net and found mor blade owners with this problem but still I didn't found the solution.
I'm looking at the zero map now as you said zero change at 0% revs just like the map I have installed. Might try adding some fuel below 1250 revs when I get the chance. Thanks again for your input
My bike showed 2 % throttle position when closed that would have given me +5 at 1500 revs, before I reset the throttle position.
What effect does the 02 eliminator have during a cold start if its effectively a zero map at 0% throttle?
No effect, the O2 sensor is only there to check the AFR, if running way too rich or poor it signals the ECU and the FI will go into an emergency loop and the FI warning light will be on. My O2 sensor is still there so there was no need to fit the eliminator but when I did I didn't know obove. The eliminator is only needed when you fit an exhaust with no sensor to prevent the FI warning light will be on. The fuel injection on bikes is simple, its a closed loop system, the ECU sends signals to the injectors but will not adjust during riding. Compared to cars who have a broadband O2 sensor that sends information about the AFR to the ECU and is adjusting the fuel when running rich or poor. This can be done on bikes also but its a big investment, can be done with a PC5, autotune and a broadband O2 sensor.
Thanks again, great info. I'm going to try and add fuel little by little from 500 to 1250 revs. It's going to take a long time as I will have to wait for hours between starts to see if things have improved.
Started on the second attempt with +2 @ 500 to 1250 revs 0% throttle. Changed it to +3 and will give it a try before going to work. Might need more fuel above idle as revs got to around 2000 before it died. But don't want to mess with the map above idle. Will also need to make sure it starts when fully warm. Could turn up my idle once I get the chance to run it up to temp before adding any more fuel? Out in a freezing garage right now waiting on the battery getting back to full charge. Could do with my bed.
Back to 3 attempts to fire it up. Called Dynojet uk. Have been told to check ground connection, also mentioned the "digital ground at the TPS. Check TPS connections are clean and that the TPS digital ground could be run back to the battery.
I too had to twist the throttle 2mm to start my 2006 fireblade....now I don't, it starts 1st time when I ONLY push the starter everytime . HOW (& it's not snake oil) is an additive I put in the oil. Put the engine on 2000revs...add additive (best done just after an oil change, or close as possible) and the revs rise a little without any further movement from the throttle. I don't know how, I'm not a mechanic, I don't work for the company or connected in any way. But it frees up the engine so slightly more torque & possibly HP, & starts 1st time. Same in my car and Hornet 900. Better fuel economy in all 3. It's called ACTIV8. Maybe on YouTube or other. Can't recommend it enough.
I can get it to start first time now by holding the throttle open a little before cranking. I need to get a feel for where to hold it as I got the evil eye from an elderly gentleman in the garage when the revs bounced to 8k on start. Lol. I might look further into the "fuel start" option for the PC3. Not sure about oil additives I'm sure the main manufactures put a lot into research and development and put in all the additives required at production.
Took my blade out yesterday. It was standing since christmas. Started almost immediatley but again I had to give a bit throtlle. Also with warm starts. Bike is running smooth with the PC 3 but the starting thing is a bit annoying. Probably its something simple but I still didn't figured it out yet
Just been out, not a great feeling wondering if it's going to start first time in front of a load of bikers. Noticed it has very poor pick up around 2500 revs when warm (100'C). That's my next mission, Flapper then PAIR to see if it helps. Want a custom map but have read that the pair system messes with the AFR sensor when on the Dyno. I don't want more power just want smooooth delivery. Bike felt great, slowly learning not to ride it like a 600.
Pair mod can be done simple, just put a marble in the hose close to were its connected to the airbox. You notice it right away, no more popping when deaccelerating. Some guys like it but i didn't so I put the marble in. Also the flapper mod I just disconnected the vacuumhose and put a small rubber stop where the hose came from. I like to do the mods the easiest way because there ia a good change we get MOT for bikes in Holland so undoing the mods must be easy !! LOL, so I'm not the only one who needed to get used to the 1000 coming from a 600, cost me 3 speedingtickets the first month. I checked the map in my PC3 and its the 16-022-547 on the dynojet site.
As I say, I went to a bike show in the NEC Birmingham UK. A small electronic wheel spun through a little bath of oil. Cut a long story short we bent the lever-bar on top of this wheel with over twice the force needed to stop the wheel without the additive. It lasts 5 oil changes then 1/2 dose of 100ml. I live in Wembley UK (beside the famous Ace Cafe), I'm a London bus driver by trade. All the staff there know me - Irish Mart (photo taken at the Ace)
