No pics today but removed the upper fairing and fairing stay, loosened off all the fork bolts and managed to snap a bolt in the clip-on due to steel in alloy!! Thankfully I have a spare pair of clip-ons here so swapped it over for the spare. Dropped out the forks and refitted my overhauled ones. Not finished just yet as I need to refinish the front brake disk centres before refitting the front wheel.
Got the discs cleaned up and the wheel fitted and torqued everything up. Had a spare fairing brace in better nick than the one fitted so swapped it out. Also had a spare set of footrests which were covered in paint which at least stopped the parts rusting like the original bolts and springs. Spent a few hours cleaning off the paint and polishing the alloy. Don't ever let anyone tell you that you can't polish a turd....you can. I need to strip the rear brake assy down and fit my spare Street Triple master cylinder and plastic reservoir then I can start refitting the trim parts, exhaust and fairings. I also have my NT650 Deauville rear disc and new old stock +1 rear sprocket to fit, then it'll be MOT time once I get my recovered seat back. This is how she stands.
Haha, yeah it is, a 1973. It's not propped up though, it's bolted to a roll over frame. Been there almost 5 years now. It'll get done once the bikes have their own space. Not ruining the paintwork on the bikes with grinding and welding sparks! Been there, done that!
Ah ok, a roll over frame is somewhat more professional than the above mentioned stepladder method . Yea haha, bikes with rough textured paintwork are never a good thing. All the best with the project.
Today I got the freshly powder coated spare clutch cover and NOS genuine Honda gasket fitted with a little RTV. I fitted the rear caliper (could do with painting the P-Clips) and mounted the Street Triple master cylinder with a couple of 6mm nuts and bolts as the centres were out as the original was 6mm not 8mm, still need a length of brake hose from the reservoir pot. Also fitted the Motad cans and trim pieces but need to slacken the cans off and move them a little to allow the powder coated exhaust covers to fit correctly. Also fitted a pair of snail horns (high and low tones) in the nose cone. Bike starts on the button now which is a bonus but I'm still going to convert to stick coils when I have a spare hour. Once the rear caliper is plumbed up and bled it'll be time to refit the fairings. Wahay!
Its like tuning in to a bike version of "Wheeler Dealers"......carry on the good work ! love reading / watching these builds.....
Removed the LH exhaust to see why it was blowing and found a small hole when it had rotted through and a piece where the chain had worn through the pipe. Cleaned up and welded them before refitting with a new graphite gasket. Cut a piece out and cut a piece of steel to fit. Fitted a spare centre stand which was in better nick than the one fitted, plumbed the rear brake and bled it all through, refitted the gear lever and started remounting the fairings following replacing the M4 fixings in the fairing inners and making 3 x alloy brace pieces for the fairing centre Vee piece. Still need to cut and polish the RH fairing and re-bleed the front calipers.
Just got my seat back today from Digger in Newport for just £70!! Still to re-bleed the front calipers and swap out the rear disc and sprocket for the new stuff & check the lights as my brake lights aren't working then it's MOT time.
Cheers all. Pretty much there now. Brake lights working now, the rear switch was permanently on. I have been finishing putting it back together. Look at the fecking length of that screen!!:lol: I have a standard length light tint one on the way.
Great work Exup, nothing better than seeing a barn find or field find in your case, back from the dead and a new lease of life. See what you mean about the screen, Eddie the Eagle would have given his left arm to have a slope that long to practice off. Now the hard bit, finding time to ride it, only done a shameful 300miles on the NC30 this summer so far.
Well, I only started doing a bit this evening following a day out with the family and it just seems like it's been one step forward and two back. Anyone ever have days like that? Following changing the chain out for a new item at the start of the project, I then removed the swingarm etc for paint and even though I tried to cover the chain it still ended up full of sh!te, so I decided to wash and scrub the chain with Motul chain cleaner followed by a good coating of Motul C1 chain wax. So far, so good. I then removed the rear wheel and took off the rear disc to fit my used but very good NTV650 disc. No problems thus far and re-torqued. Then I removed my rear sprocket and got out my new old stock 87-88 FH/FJ SC21 sprocket which is a 43 tooth not the 42 of the FK onward, so it's effectively a +1 sprocket so it should make a little difference to the acceleration.........until I tried to fit it! Honda in their infinite wisdom not only went for a different final drive ratio, they also saw fit to increase the stud size from 10mm to 12mm!!!! Cue 20 mins with a pillar drill and followed by a quick tidy up with a countersink bit. Re-fitted and torqued the sprocket then made a start refitting the wheel only for the pads to continually drop down when trying to refit the caliper / torque arm mount only to manage to pop off the friction material!!! So whilst the bike is back together and back on it's wheels I now need new rear pads, so I'll also get a new rear brake pin, springs at the same time. Only one pic tonight.
I had a spare half hour earlier following my internet orders arriving so made an effort to fit the 2012-15 fireblade coil sticks. I purchased 4 x Ford PCV rubber grommits from Burton Power Products at just over a tenner for 4 inc delivery. PCV valve grommet - Ford X/Flow OHV Kent, SOHC Pinto, Cologne V4/V6, Essex V4/V6 & DOHC 8v They are a perfect fit on the CBR sticks and are a tight fit in the head so will deffo be water and oil tight. I purchased 2 x pairs of 2 way Tyco AMP econoseal water proof electrical connectors and cut off the coil connections. These are marked with the terminal number so it's quite a straightforward job. I never had the proper crimper so used a pliers after tinning the wires with solder then after fitting the waterproof seals, heated up the crimp after and dabbed the solder to ensure a perfect connection. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131093571629?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT Then fitted the coils and attached the loom, Tried the bike and it runs sweet enough. It seemed to settle down to a smooth idle and came off the choke sooner than it used to but that may be my imagination. Should make the bike more reliable and give a stronger spark.
