removing preload assembly BPF

Discussion in 'Maintenance' started by Jez, Jan 27, 2017.

  1. Jez

    Jez Senior Member

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    I have stripped my forks but still have the preload assembly in the bottom of the forks, I am after ticn on the fork legs so have to remove bottom castings,I have unscrewed and taken out the preload adjuster but it still leaves the plastic assembly inside, Any good ideas,
     
  2. KPH

    KPH Active Member

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    Can't help but possiby the Sportsbiketrack gear CBR1000RR video where the guy installes a set of Ohlins cartridges may help ( HERE )
     
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  3. Jez

    Jez Senior Member

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    Hi KPH, That is exactly what I needed, thanks very much.
     
  4. Dave dunlop

    Dave dunlop Elite Member

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    Like the chaps ability to know exactly how much pressure to apply for the torque settings!:cool:
     
  5. Jez

    Jez Senior Member

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    Made a fork clamp but unlike the ohlins it has 2 two foot handles, warmed the forks and it was a non event, I have a newly acquired blow torch that has a 15kg bottle a large nozzle, I heated for about 40 secs and they just came out.They will be on there way for coating next week
     
  6. KPH

    KPH Active Member

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    Made me laugh..... " I was a car mechanic before and get my muscley arms calibrated every year." Mickey-takng aside, I really couldn't have done my road to race bike conversion without the videos so I'm thankful for those.

    Do you have photos of your set-up please: fork clamps etc ?. I'm considering getting a cartridge kit in the future and will try to do t myself.
     
    #6 KPH, Jan 29, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2017
  7. Jez

    Jez Senior Member

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    I am lucky I have a Bridgeport miller and harrison lathe etc. The fork tubes came out quite easy with heat, I still had the plastic preload assembly in so did not want to damage them with to much heat, I was expecting it to be much harder as it shows with the over engineering, If it wasn't for the forums it would make life such hard work. It seems suspension people like to keep their work secret, If you live near york I can remove bottom foot for you
     

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  8. PeterT

    PeterT Active Member

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    What Harrison you running?
    M300/M400/L5
    Just curious as I run a M300
     
  9. KPH

    KPH Active Member

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    Thanks - looks a fairly simple set-up. Thanks for the offer but i'm currently in Thailand - a bit far to come to York. There are small garage size machine shops over here that charge unbeleivably samll amounts for doing stuff on both manual and CNC machines.
     
  10. Jez

    Jez Senior Member

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    I also have the M300 they are one of the best all rounder, You cannot beat being able to machine up all the parts you need, I made all the tools to take the forks apart
     
  11. PeterT

    PeterT Active Member

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    Yes a great machine.
    Got a spare fixed steady?
     
  12. Dave dunlop

    Dave dunlop Elite Member

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    Jez have you decided if your going to DLC coat or Nitride coat? Going to get mine done once I get the Nix30 kit in, but also get the bottoms finished in satin Black rather than the cast gunmetal finish:D
     
  13. Jez

    Jez Senior Member

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    Hi, from the limited info I can get it looks like it will be tin, I think they mainly use dlc for motorcross for its hardness, stone chips etc, I will have to speak to the suspension people and see what they think. I am polishing mine up at the moment, I tried the cross hatch on the R1 they were not coated but did not notice any difference. I shall have a look for a spare fixed steady but don't think I have one
     

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