Folks, I'm hoping someone on here can help answer a question. I recently bought a set of 2nd-hand wheels from the forum, and I've yet to put them onto the bike. I'm looking to have tyres put on them soon, but I was wondering if I'd have to have discs on them for when the tyre-fitter balances them? The advantage to not needing discs on for balancing is that I can have them into the tyre-fitter getting tyres on without taking my current wheels/discs off my bike and therefore use the bike in the meantime. I know that the rear wheel should be balanced without the sprocket carrier in place (although someone please correct me if I'm wrong!) so no concerns there. But the disc thing I wasn't so sure. I guess lots of people buy new discs and fit them and probably don't get the wheels re-balanced afterwards, but I thought I'd check nonetheless. Any help greatly appreciated, as always!
I've never bothered balancing with discs as I've always done it straight after fitting the tyres with the discs off, although there's no harm in fitting the discs to balance the wheels as they have to be fitted at some point before you refit the wheel anyway.
Preferably with discs fitted up and complete, same with the rear with sprocket carrier etc to get it bang on....
Dave, that's interesting. I would have thought the same, but I'm sure I read on here somewhere that rear wheel balancing should be done without the sprocket carrier on. That said, I'm not sure why - it makes sense to get everything that rotates balanced as an assembly.
thats beacuse the sprocket carrier just roll on the spindle on it own bearing, with the only bit of connection through rubber cusion which is not consider as one piece with the wheel.
Most people leave it off! It doesn't make a big difference but you are incorrect, it's still part of the rotating mass and if you read most service manuals it's states static wheel balancing to be carried out with carrier and sprocket installed! by balancing the rim,tire,rotor and sprocket you get the most accurate balance.If you were to this then change the rotor,you would throw the balance off.It's the same as balancing just the tire then bolting everything else on.When you balance the whole assembly you can't change anything without throwing out the balance.Even mounting the sprocket 180 degrees from where it was during balance will affect the end result.
That make sense, the place I used to work at have the snap on balancer and I was told not put the sprocket carrier onto it and it will mess with the machine's reading. Completely forgot you can do the old fashion way
The difference is minimal as the weight difference is close to the central mass on rotation, some people do some people don't..... as a rule we balance with, and the machine is set up so it clamps both wheels with carrier installed, or use a different clamp if it's a bare wheel.
I do mine the old fashioned way with a static balancer, but with sprocket carrier removed and they have always been fine. My VFR1200 rear wheel is going to be a challenge though as there are no bearings to put the spindle through
If you do balance with the sprocket you will have to mark sprocket to wheel position, other wise if you refit the sprocket at 180 degrees out in the cush drive this will affect the balance
https://www.thoughtco.com/the-what-why-and-how-of-wheel-balancing-3234378 http://www.levintirecenter.com/the-difference-between-a-wheel-alignment-and-a-wheel-balance.html The only problem you could get with the 55er tyre is, that your ABS (if you got one) won’t work like it should work. The ABS Light will come on from time to time and the system disabled itself. The Honda C-ABS does not have a calibration option like the Aprilia and the Yamaha R1 got. Also, there will be a problem with the rear original hugger if you want to carry a passenger on your bike.
