Air Duct Flapper Mod

Discussion in 'Mods, Upgrades, Accessories and Products' started by Burnsy, Aug 5, 2017.

  1. Burnsy

    Burnsy Active Member

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    Guys, hearing of people removing air flappers in the air intakes...

    just wondering... is it worth it? is it easy? Is there an idiots guide anywhere i can follow?

    cheers,

    Scotty.
     
  2. roboticus

    roboticus Active Member

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    Bump. Wouldn't mind knowing myself:cool:
     
  3. Tonic

    Tonic Active Member

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    Isn't that mod just on a VFR?
     
  4. Shutty

    Shutty Well-Known Member

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    My 08 came with it done, i was way too curious so i connected it all back together and it ran smoother and less snatchy. I left back standard
     
  5. roboticus

    roboticus Active Member

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    It'll prob need tuning to get best of it. I'm guessing
     
  6. Burnsy

    Burnsy Active Member

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    Im not sure how hard it is to so but as soon as i source myself a racefit exhaust then ive got all the parts to get the bike set up properly. Was gonna do the mod beforehand to try get the best results. If anyone has done it a guide would be greatly appreciated lol
     
  7. grip-wolrd

    grip-wolrd Active Member

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    • Like Like x 1
  8. Burnsy

    Burnsy Active Member

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    excellent mate cheers for the link, even a man of my limited capabilities should manage this :D
     
  9. si1000repsol

    si1000repsol Well-Known Member

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    It's recommended as part of the HRC manual on converting to a race bike. Also when you put your bike on a dyno to get a map for a power commander, they give false readings so are blocked. Like Roboticus said, mapping will certainly get the best of them being removed.
     
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  10. hessel

    hessel Member

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    this tutorial does not apply for the 08+ blades.
    the difference with the blades versus an rc51 (sp1 or 2) is that in case of the rc51 the valve by default sits in the open position and applying vacuum causes it to close therefore disconnecting the line will cause it to stay open.
    with the blade by default it is closed and the vacuum makes it go open.
    disconnecting it on a blade causses it to remain closed and never open again...big difference...:)
    if u want to keep the valve open all the time u need to remove the thing from the airducts or replace the airducts with aftermarket ones (without flappervalves)
    much more work and cost for very little gain (from what i read)...i certainly aint gonna bother unless i was converting it to a full track bike...
     
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  11. lardytkd

    lardytkd Active Member

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  12. Dave dunlop

    Dave dunlop Elite Member

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    Yeh mines completely removed, 2014 bike... wiring solenoids flaps springs and vacuum pipe plugged. You will need to plug the holes that the solenoids sit in. I used some big grommets I had knocking around to plug the holes. It's a ball ache of a job with complete fairing removal to do the job properly. I did mine in conjunction Sprint filter replacement and ABS removal so the bike was pretty much stripped down to the bare bones anyway.
     
  13. TheRamJam

    TheRamJam Well-Known Member

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    I've dumped the solenoid near the coils and blocked the pipe up that runs to the air box. However I still have the vacuum chamber and all the other sh1te attached. I've still to fit my HM Plus QS so when I get around to that i'll rip the remaining stuff out. Just not sure what to use to block up the big gaping holes in the air scoops once everything is gone..
     
  14. Dave dunlop

    Dave dunlop Elite Member

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    I think the grommets are around 16-18 mm of the top of my head. Remember them being a snug fit. You could potentially just use some duct tape just making sure it's well stuck and plenty big enough so it's not sucked up in the tube:D
     
  15. Odium-fr

    Odium-fr Active Member

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    Done this mod last year too.
    Removed everything too on my 2010, solenoids, pipes, springs, flaps, plastic box in the headlight... No real difference noticed after that... I've got a full exhaust so i didn't heard any difference in the sound, but i think these stuffs are just there to reduce noise emission at low rpm, like the exhaust valve! Not really to increase torque !

    And yes you have to cover the holes in the airduct then ! I choose to cut some rubber discs and glued them with silicon, so it is completely waterproof ;)
     

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