Martin, I am wondering if you might be advantaged by removing the cylinder head and checking combustion chambers in case any soot/ash/crap did manage to seep through the throttle openings/intake tubes. I think you would be annoyed that upon starting you then heard some strange rattles in the top end. Further, as it will be a track bike, a good port and polish would be beneficial at the same time.
To be honest, I did think about it. However engine work is something I am not capable, nor equipped to do. I also carefully looked over the intake ports before plugging them with rags and they were all clean. Now you've got me thinking...
Asessing the crash damage after the wash. As i mentioned, the carbon kevlar cover held up really well. The bike has a samco knockoff silicone hose kit installed. Wondering if I should keep those or replace with origial rubber ones. What is the benefit of silicone hoses anyways?
Taking off the thermostat and taping the coolant passage. Taped with aluminum tape(very sticky and good seal), but since it was really thin, reinforced with electrical tape on top. Starter off. Shock rebuild by ktech. Front end off.
Most of the damaged bits that will go in the trash - wiring, airbox, clutch and throttle cables, bunch of sensors, carbon engine covers (one was ground down, the othe burnt), broken subframe and tray. Throttle and clutch side perches, broken right clipon. Wheel... no comment.
Thanks. I've been around cars and bikes for years as a hobby. If i wasnt confident i could rebuild it i would have never started. Not sure if i mentioned before, i did a similar teardown and rebuild of my old 900 blade. And i've been tracking this bike a lot last few years... streetfightered. Its been long overdue for a more modern track bike, but just couldnt justify spending a lot on a fun toy. This project fit the bill so...
He lowsided in a fast lefthander. The bike slid off the track, grabbed in the grass, flipped in the air and landed on the rear wheel and tail which took most of the damage.
It was at this point I realized how corrosive the extinguisher powder really is. Basically, after the crash the bike was never washed and was stored in a cold and humid garage during winter. Just FYI, winters in Bulgaria are pretty cold, wet and we do get a lot of snow. The extinguisher powder in combination with condensation corroded everything so badly, there was no way to leave it like that. Had they washed the bike and at least partly disassembled it, it would have been much better. I did expect some flaking paint and could live with a few spots here and there (possibly touch them up) considering it will be a track only bike, but no way with this level of corrosion. All the white spots you see in the photos are oxidation where the extinguisher powder had accumulated and stuck to the metal. Oh well, dropping the engine obviously.
As I was saying The plan is this: 1. Degrease the engine, wire wheel / sand all the oxidized spots of the engine block, cases, head and oil pan. Clean and degrease again, mask everything and paint the engine block with high temp paint. 2. Take off the engine covers (clutch, generator and valve), prep them and powder coat. 3. Strip down the frame with paint stripper, wire wheel the oxidized spots, mask all bolt holes, machined surfaces etc. and powder coat black. 4. Clean all fasteners, bolts, etc. to see what is in good condition and reusable and what is rusted and going into the trash. 5. Swingarm is quite OK, just minor scratches and rock chips, so a good clean and re-grease of the pivot bearings will do.
Good progress. The oxidation is not unlike battery acid 'burns', so therefore, as you realise, is only superficial - yet unsightly. It will restore fine. I am so inspired by this thread that I'm going outside to do some work on my C90!
If you recall in one of the previous posts I mentioned that the throttle body assembly along with the injectors were fine on the inside. My original plan was to clean and reuse them. I started looking for ways to take them apart for cleaning and if there are any factory pre-set adjustment screws I should not touch, etc. Upon closer inspection I started to doubt if they were salvageable...
Just as I was getting a bit concerned what to do.... this happened Brand new, complete throttle body, TPS, servo, fuel and vacuum lines, both injector rails, harness, airbox, air temp sensor and even a brand new filter - the whole assembly. For a 2016 SP bike... Checked every single part number and aside from a couple of screws and the air temp sensor EVERYTHING is identical all the way back to 2008. Makes me wonder what has Honda been doing for 8 years... fairing updates?
And in the meantime I found a donor bike (2011 ABS) from a local breaker in mint condition. The bike was lowsided on the left and unfortunately hit something and tore off the left engine cover, destroying the engine. I went there with a bunch of tools and stripped pretty much everything I needed: - Complete wiring harness - although for ABS, that system is completely separate and the harness works just fine. - Starter solenoid relay - Regulator/Rectifier - Subframe - ECU, immobilizer antenna, starter key switch, matching fuel cap and rear seat lock - Clutch cable - Every single bolt and bracket I could strip of the bike (as mine are all badly rusted) - Speed sensor - Knock sensor - Various hoses - Engine mount bolts and spindles - Valve cover (as mine seems badly pitted and I got it for really cheap as a package deal) - Exhaust flap servo motor (my bike has Leo Vince pipe, but I figured I may plug the servo to avoid any error codes) - Intake boots - HESD I am sure I am missing something, but you get the picture
Now you've got everything in a million pieces...what are you using to reassemble, the official Workshop manual? or is it just knowledge that you have gained from past work on bike(s) ?
Both really. I've been working on bikes for a long time so have a pretty good idea what goes where. I do have the shop manual printed out, so it helps with harness routing and bolt specs, etc. Although TBH with the wire harness being in a plastic shell, it is pretty self explanatory how it lays out. If you want to do it as close to factory as possible though the manual definitely helps. Finally, the online parts fiche schematics help a lot with proper placement of various brackets and choosing the proper bolts (length and head).
You could always consider the positive side that after the 06-07 model, Honda had actually nailed the throttle/injection process so had no need to modify. Further, many techs might have been re-deployed to admin to denounce public outcry over later models' ABS failures. I see your donor bike is ABS, but happy you won't be including the system! Looks to be going well for you, although I wonder if you're spending more time posting on here than actually working on the bike!!
I guess you could look at it that way. Also nowadays focus seems to have shifted towards development of auxiliary electronic systems like drive by wire, ABS, traction and wheelie control and electronic suspension, rather than mechanical performance. TBH, I am still a fan of the older bikes, without all the electronics taking most control off your hands. Its probably because I cannot afford one of the latest 2017+ models
