Not much to describe here - throttle body and cables installed. One slight concern is at what position to adjust the lower throttle cable position in the drum. The manual doesn't specify a correct position so I just used the manual pictures as a reference. I have a feeling I will have to get back in there when I connect the throttle tube on the handlebar.
Is that rubber mallet used for minor adjustment and calibration... This is so awesome, you'll have to video the point when she's comes alive (when you start her the first time).
The mallet is my negotiation tool Convincing stuff to fit when it doesn't want to. In this case the throttle bodies into the rubber intake boots.
Test fitting the airbox and routing the harness around the fuel/vacuum lines. Bottom row injectors, servo, TPS connected. Upper portion of the wiring laid out to see how it fits. Airbox is not bolted down yet.
Rearsets disassembled and thoroughly cleaned. Put back together These are no brand Chinese footrests but are actually pretty decent quality and quite sturdy. I will probably get a nicer set at some point and keep these as track spares, but for the moment I am more concerned with getting the bike running. Not to mention I am getting way over the planned budget.
Clutch perch bits cleaned and assembled. Rear brake caliper, support bracket and master - cleaned and assembled. Sliding pins polished and greased.
And finally rearsets and rear brake mounted on the bike. Not sure on the footpeg position yet, this will be adjusted once I take it to the track for testing. Also the rear brake is a bit soft, I am pretty sure some air from the reservoir must have gotten in the master/line/caliper as I was cleaning them. No biggie, it will be bled together with the front brakes.
Thanks, it does indeed. Funny thing is, take a look at the footpeg on my old 900 blade in the back. Both are ground at an angle like that and its not from crashing, but from dragging them on the track. They are the stock rearsets, just the actual footpegs are changed, still foldable and spring loaded. I was planning to get some aftermarket higher rearsets, but then I got a new bike altogether. This one will have a headlight put on and will remain my street legal bike. PS. Yes I know it looks miserable being used as a storage shelf, dirty and neglected. Will get it sorted soon enough.
You may have noticed the fuel tank laying on the ground in the back on some of the older photos. It was really dirty, a bit scratched and had some surface rust (on the outside). Inside is perfectly clean and shiny. Also it has a small dent on one side, but still perfectly usable, considering it is covered anyway.
The dent was pushed out a little bit with a wood rod though the fuel pump opening and a hammer. Couldn't do a very good job, as the internal vent tubes were in the way. The tank was thoroughly washed, rust spots sanded and spray painted with a can. It is a temporary solution to get the bike running. During the winter, I will send the tank to have the dent pulled out and painted properly, but it will do just fine for now. Fuel pump, keyless gas cap installed (I have the matching cap from the donor bike, but it will stay in the spare parts bin) and test fitted to the bike. I believe the race cap used to be black... I guess heat and anodizing don't go very well together.
Rizoma engine case slider installed. Kickstand bracket installed - I will not be putting the kickstand on, but still need the bracket to mount the shift lever. All hoses cleaned and prepped. I am forced to use one of the old silicone hoses, as the set I ordered was from a 2012 bike and one of the hoses for the radiator is a different shape.
Coolant hoses installed. It took some trial and error and lots of staring into the manual routing diagrams, but finally everything in place correctly. Crap, I was sure I will have to get under the airbox again. Just as expected I needed to adjust the position of the throttle cables so needed proper access to the throttle bodies. and back together. Hopefully for the last time. The problem was that during testing if everything is getting power, I also primed the fuel pump and lines. Removing the airbox, means disconnecting the top injector rail. Didn't really feel nice about spilling gas on the freshly painted engine without giving the high-heat temp a chance to bake properly (running the engine hot).
With the coolant hoses installed, its time to sort out the headers before mounting the radiator. The headers, although stainless steel were pretty rusted and neglected. Spent a few hours sanding, wire brushing and soaking in (don't laugh) Coke. This really works for dissolving the surface rust, without attacking the bare metal too much like regular rust converter. I did get them to a good enough state with most of the rust removed, just a few spots leftover in the really tight spaces. I won't bother making them perfect of polishing them for now. Sadly I forgot to take "after" pictures, you will see them on the bike.
Exhaust bracket cleaned, polished and new stainless bolt to replace the old rusty one. Rear sprocket carrier and bolts cleaned. Seal cleaned and re-greased.
There’s a lot on you tube of people using bleach on the headers and then polishing with a metal polish seems to work well for some. I’ve always used autosol works a treat but takes some effort to do the whole exhaust system!
Hmm, I've seen the Harpic videos... never occurred to me to try any other bleach product. May give it a go, thanks for the advice.
New tires ready to be fitted and also the oxygen sensor - stripped off the old burned insulation and wrapped in some heat resistant tape. Tires fitted along with a bunch of other parts ready to go on the bike. My original forks turned out a bit worn, in need of service and with a major internal problem which I will get to in a bit. Got a set of absolutely mint forks to put on the bike. The other set will be rebuilt and saved as spares or sold. In any case the k-tech revalved internals will be going into the set on the bike at some point.
