this has been the weekend from hell , anybody had any issues with pro bolt titanium front disc bolts ? after polishing and waxing my bike I thought I would change the front and back disk bolts , rear ones fitted spot on and torqued to 42 nm as manual , come to do the front what a fucking nightmare the manual says 20nm , so I did one it snapped inside the wheel (got it out ) checked both my torque wrenches on other standard bolts and they where fine , knocked it down to 15nm snapped again (got it out ) so knocked it down to 13nm another 1 snapped and been at it since last night and today and cant get it out trashed 3 drill bits and they have also scratched parts of my wheel to top it off , so any ideas may be helpful.
Keith, precisely why the only mods you need to do to a sports bike is end can and tank pad. I learned the hard way too. Hope you get it sorted.
yeh I always change the standard bolts as they start took a bit crappy , but never had this much shit and it looks like its going to cost me , had you done the same and what did u have to do ?
Not the same problem as yours but I used to over Mod my bikes and on reflection the bike started to look a bit like a Christmas tree. These days (and it is probably age related in my case), I prefer to leave them as they are. Jeez swallow me up please, but these days I hate noisy end cans lol. Now how do I get to Switzerland lol.
Wrt the fixing torque, are the torques you quote for the OEM steel bolts? Do ProBolt quote a torque for Ti? I would not accept they are to be the same, Ti has very different characteristics to steel. How did you remove the first failed parts? Is it now shy of the wheel surface? Warming the alloy part will release the stud somewhat but I'd ring ProBolt and ask their advice. You won't be the first this has happened to. Seriously though, and not helpful right now but I'd not waste my money trying to reduce tiny rotating part weight. Only the big stuff like rims, tyres, crankshafts etc. have enough rotational inertia to make a difference to a road bike. Ask ProBolt they know how to release Ti.
the first 2 bolts there was a bit showing at the top so I just tapped them round and then pliers but this last one is right inside I have tried to drill it but its not having any of it . I will do . cheers
I only change them as after a bit the standard bolts look crap , but the rear went on fine and torqued up to the standard 42nm , so I cant understand that .
No help now, I know, but that was actually my feeling also, although it still offers no answer to why the front snapped and the rear didn't. I don't mean to treat you like an idiot (@keithg1748 ) but I hope you know about these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/screw-extractor-set-5-pieces/1112v Hope you solve it quickly.
If ProBolt won't comment and you are back to drilling for an extractor, get the right gear before starting again. You need a very sharp drill and carbide tipped. It needs a high cutting pressure or it'll just polish the Ti. The drill should be just long enough to reach the work as a small drill will bend and snap with a high cutting pressure. Without seeing the job it's hard to advise but I'd not be avoiding taking the wheel to a machine shop with a radial drill that lets them ensure a fast centred hole without wrecking the alloy part. Take it steady and good luck.
ive taken it to genesis engines near me he said he will put a new thread in it , so should get it back this afternoon ,fingers crossed .
I did exactly the same thing about 18months ago, from memory are the disc bolts an M6 thread or there abouts? I snapped one off trying to torque it up. Managed to get it out quit easily. From then on I used a bit of thread lock and just nipped them. No issues at all after that.
all sorted now , had to be drill out and had to get new thread put in £30 but its all back together now , thank god , lol
maybe when I get the ti bolts that was snapped on fitting , just waiting to see what pro bolt say. fingers crossed .
