Does anyone have a list of useful torque wrench settings? I'm putting my wheels and brakes back. I'll see what I can find but maybe this could be turned into a sticky for other members??? Just a thought anyway. Thanks guys
These are the torque settings for the 2004 - 2007 Blade: Front axle bolt 78 Nm Front axle clamp bolts 22 Nm Front brake caliper mounting bolts 45 Nm Front brake pad retaining pins 16 Nm Front brake caliper body joining bolts 23 Nm Brake hose banjo bolts 34 Nm Rear axle nut 113 Nm
the honda blade manual tells you every setting have a look in yours, unless you have a kawasaki that manual tells me nothing
I have a 2016 non abs fireblade can I use the same 34 Nm torque setting for the caliper banjo hose bolts also to the master cylinder ? Cheers Ad
It's specified in the 2011 manual (at 16.2) as 34 NM same as the caliper banjo mounts. I used these settings on my 2011 after installing HEL lines. They're the same bolt with the same washer and both going into similar alloy. Cheers!
Might as well use this thread for my question since it's mildly related to calipers and front wheel.... I've got a new front tyre to be fitted by a local tyre fitter. Looking at the manual for the correct front wheel removal/re-fit procedure and it says to remove the brake calipers before taking out the pinch bolts? Is that strictly necessary?
Gee Hitch, I think you'll have the tyre fitted before you get a definitive answer on this. I'm no help either, except to say that I've never removed calipers to extract the front wheel. Honda might recommend it solely as a precaution to save possible damage to brake pads?
Agree, it's not something I've ever done before. Wondered if there something special to be wary of, hence the manual stating to remove the calipers - I don't plan to unless someone tells me about that essential thing I should be wary of!
Just to wake up an old thread. As an owner of a 2012 blade and now a 2018 blade. I've found it impossible to remove the front wheel without removing the calipers, even then it is a tight squeeze to get them off the discs without clouting the rims.
Anyone have the settings for the engine case left side, resealing and gasket job I'm doing tomorrow for an oil leak on the stator cable etc Cheers Rob
when i replaced my stator did them at 10nm, same as the torque specified for GB racing covers, no leaks, no shears!
Breaking the old seal is a PITA, just take it slow and use plastic pry tools to avoid damage. Clean the mating surfaces to the nth degree, I use a bit of brake cleaner as the final step, also just to note the cover should be completely smeared in sealer but the crankside should be only be smeared at 2 points, can supply a diagram if required.
