i have heard somewhere that you should not use it on ali calipers because they have found it corrodes the ali you should use graphite grease
Such rumours are perpetuated by people who 'hear' things without taking time to verify/substantiate the claim.
brought the subject of bolt replacement at every caliper off as per honda service manual. And nobody seemed to follow that. Tyre fitters don't either unless it is a honda dealer. I understand the explanation of hollow bolts streching but hey £50 is a lot of money! For the same cost you can get Ti bolts. I would not mount either dry because of the risk of metal to metal corrosion. loctite light duty is the one for me. Copper grease or similar would have been the obvious choice but introducing a 3rd metal into the equation may make matters worse. Just remember to reduce the tightening torque
tightening torque can be a subject not dissimilar to which tyre or oil to keep it brief the figure quoted in service manual are for dry threads (or cleaned up & degreased)) which create a certain friction on which the torque setting is based. Once you lube the thread then the thread friction is reduced and for the same torque you can turn the fastener tighter so you can over tighten which is not good for parts involved. loctite 221,222 and 243 are lubricating thread lockers and you need to torques fasteners to about 10~30% less (it depends on the thread diameter).Apparently, 270 is not lubricating so it needs the same torque setting as a dry bolt hope I didn't send you to sleep
Makes sense, however the torque figures quoted in the Honda service manual are for new replacement bolts that appear to arrive with thread lock already applied to the bolt. So I should imagine the white lab coat Honda boffins have already taken any toque slippage into account. Right? And our home tool box torque wrenches might already have 5% or more error in their measured toque, so I have to further hope Honda and all the other manufactures have taken this into account as well when they spec up all the parts :lol:
I was always told that torque figures were for dry, however I have seen several test videos that show lube/threadlock only affecting large bolts at high torques. Personally I still prefer to torque dry and rely on the fact that the engineers know what is required.
Copper grease can be used with steel bolts with a zinc coating that are going into aluminium, moly grease should be used for titanium and stainless bolts going into aluminium, ceramic grease is also good for stopping cross contamination of metals This is due to how the materials react with each other in their bare states I use titanium caliper bolts with loctite keeps them in place and stops them reacting to each other
interesting info for me as I have never seen them new in flesh. If the torque was different, the white coat buffing would include this with the parts. So like you, I would go for the handbook quoted torque. This may not be conflicing with what loctite told me: "Loctite 222 and 243 are lubricating thread locking grades, the torque setting should be the same as that selected for a lubricated fastener. Not some products such as Loctite 270 do not lubricate and the torque setting should be similar to a dry degreased theaded assembly" So I assume the ones on the bolts are non lubricating which fits Do you know the material the honda bolts are made of? From what I have concluded, for TI bolts in alu metal, I should use alu grease. The alu (oxide?) coating remaind behind long after the grease is gone to provide a barrier between the two metal to stop galling
