So today I had my bike suspension set up at weardale racing. Wow what a difference a few tweaks can make from a very clever man
Sounds alright to me. I mean, if you can't get to a church on a Sunday, a suspension tech has to be the next best thing! All relative though - smooth riding IS next to Godliness!
Would it be worth taking the 2018 SP I wonder. Despite all it's fancy electronics I still find the suspension back joltingly hard sometimes. I note the front fork preload is manually adjustable on these models
The fancy electronics are only as good as the initial set up, you should still get the preload front and rear set up for your weight, so yes get it done.
Good point @Gaffa22. It's easy to get carried away thinking that the electronics 'fix' everything, but obviously it will be more effective when set to correct parameters, or weight, as you suggest. I am guilty of such a flawed assumption. However, after learning more about these bikes and their suspension, I would not repeat a visit to a ride in-ride out centre that merely resets the sag and preload to what they BELIEVE to be optimum. That, to me, is the same as any of us just returning the bike to default settings. I am convinced that the only way to achieve optimum set up is by calibrating to a rider's actual kitted riding weight. So yes, @Kevin1 might gain some advantage by doing so. I would love to learn the result if he elects to pursue.
When I took mine to JHS racing they asked me my kitted weight and not my weight, after they did their magic the bike was transformed, turned quicker, held the line better, more grip etc Plus side of sorting your suspension will be that your tyres will last longer
Definitely. I know people who have haken BMWs and Ducatis etc with leccy suspension. With Pixie racing at the TT for a number of years, he knows how to set up a bike. He said you have to have a feel for the suspension before you set off down Bray Hill full throttle! Best thing for me was he took the time to set lever positions etc. Huge difference to riding especially the gear lever position. Not something I had previously considered.
Ah, but I had considered it. Raised mine a tad higher than normal so my toe isn't too low and therefore compromising aerodynamics along the bottom edge of the fairing.
The electric semi active suspension only adjusts rebound and compression, it can adjust the damping on the fly at 5 - 10 times per second depending on model. But to get the best out of it as suggested above, you need the sag setting done accurately with your proper weight which means wearing your exact riding kit. You may need to compromise between road and track riding, or better still have the bike set up for both and write down the preload settings so you can quickly adjust between the two, and the matching pr-programmable base damping settings.
He was showing me that when I move my foot to go from above the lever to below or vica versa, my knee came off the tank. Few adjustments and it was just an ankle/foot movement. I didn't think it would make much difference but noticed straight away how much more control you maintain on the bike. Tricks of the trade as they say!
