Hello all, I'm a newish rider, passed DAS just under 2 years ago. I bought an '09 Fireblade from a friend at work last year and think it's fantastic on track (less so on the road). There are a couple of things I don't like about it though:- 1) The exhaust gets very hot against my heel after 30-40 minutes of riding. 2) There seems to be a lot of travel on the brake lever before it does anything. It's firm once the free travel is taken up though so I don't think it's a bleeding problem. I understand the 'cat is in the can. As the 'cat is likely to be contributing to the heat in the can I've bought a spare standard can and it's my intention to cut it out and weld it back up. I thought about buying an aftermarket exhaust without a 'cat but I generally prefer the look of the standard exhaust (except for the Taylormade but I'm worried this will be too loud for trackdays). Am I correct in assuming that I will need a remap after doing this? What are the best options for reducing the free travel in the lever? Thanks in advance Gary
The feel of the brakes is fine once the free travel has been taken up so I don't think the pads are causing me any issues. Should also have said in my first post that the bike already has braided HEL lines on the front (2 line setup) and short brake levers. I like everything except the excessive initial travel. Edit: Just been looking on Ebay. There seem be umpteen of these for sale for about £210, listed with various bikes in the title but presumably all the same? All the ones I've looked at seem to have a table with the following info:- Material Forged Aluminium Ø Piston mm 19 Lever Ratio 18-20 Lever Type Long Lever Single/double disc Double Surface protection Hard anodized Weight (gr) 350 Brake light micro-switch Yes Ø Handlebar fixing (mm) 22,2 Are these available with a short lever too?
Give it a go, let us know how you get on. As for the heat, it sounds like you just need to move your right foot a little forward.
I'm not sure what you're suggesting to adjust. I thought the only adjustment on levers was to the reach, which just changes the distance the lever starts from the bar. Are you saying that it's possible to adjust the dead travel? I thought that was set by the drillings/ports within the master cylinder. Edit: I suppose I could disassemble the master cylinder and machine a shim to limit the return of the piston. That would remove the dead travel in the lever. I don't really fancy doing that though as I've enough projects on already and it would be nice to just buy something off the shelf that fixes my problem for once
Is the bike ABS or non-ABS and how recent were the front brakes bled? If it was done recently, it could be potentially be the master cylinder playing up. If that's the case, you're better off just replacing it/upgrading it. As for the exhaust heat, are you running the OEM or aftermarket?
I have a 2011 with dual HEL lines and have no probs at all. Like others have said, I think it's a basic bleed problem and not a Master Cylinder flaw. Can't understand how you're getting a hot foot unless you're riding barefooted or, as @Iain says - move your foot forward a tad.
It's a 'non-ABS' model. I will admit I haven't bled it recently, however, the lever firms up as soon as the free travel is taken up and it's not remotely spongy. For that reason I'd ruled out air in the system. Would someone with a standard master cylinder mind measuring the travel at the lever tip when they pull the front brake? That would answer if there is an issue with mine or if it's normal. I've only ever ridden 3 bikes (the instructor's CBF600, a CB600F and this fireblade) so don't have much to compare against. I don't remember the other bikes having so much free travel though. As far as the exhaust is concerned it is the original system. Where I'm comfy (natural position) it starts to cook my heel after a while. No, I'm not riding barefoot. I know I could move my foot forward but then I'd be in a less comfortable position. I'd rather be in a comfortable position and reduce the heat in the can (hence modifying a standard can).
On my 2011 with standard Master Cylinder and standard size levers the free travel is 20mm before bite. With the lever adjustment you could allow a few mm either way. Hope this helps.
I think they look fantastic and that would of course get rid of the hot bits near my right foot. I understand they're quite loud though and I don't want to have any concern about noise testing at track days.
The additional travel may be caused by the piston retracting to the calipers. This could be caused by a slightly warped disc, corroded pistons, dirty seals etc. A common symptom is shite braking on first application but once primed performance is returned Check/service your calipers clean bobbins on discs to see if there is any improvement An RCS will reduce the travel at the lever but not the piston. I had an RCS and stainless steel pistons which made braking epic!
I've just been and measured mine and the travel before bite is 26mm at the tip of a short lever. That suggests it is more than it should be as it'd presumably be near 30mm with standard levers fitted. I'll give them a good bleed tomorrow. If I can get it down below 20mm I'd be perfectly happy with that. Thanks again for taking the time to measure yours.
In road terms, that would probably equate to a couple of metres, or more, of lost stopping distance. I'm quite confident a proper bleed with fix it.
the reach adjuster (on the standard lever) does change the travel before the brake bites. I use it on my bike because of this. taylormade (in my eyes) is the best looking silencer which retaind the integrated look of the OEM one (which I like) but I have read of fueling issues as it does not support the O2 sensor or the exhaust valve and it can be too loud. I am puzzled by the exhaust heat on the heel. Mine is barely noticeable even running during hot (ours anyway!) summers day although my bum gets spit roasted! Have you checked to make sure all is in place, like the SS top cover on the silencer and the small black heat shield near the footpeg?
