Engine coolant

Do you any if you guys have any recommendations ref a good coolant .
I used the ICE coolant in my last bikes but any advice would be great .

 

I used this stuff previously but not had the blade long enough to change it yet

 

I refilled with the silkolene stuff when I changed mine last year. Its kept the bike slightly cooler but there's nothing to say replacing it with any new stuff wouldn't have done the same.

 

I would just follow the Honda recommendation for your year model.
Coolant is heavy and radiators are a drag, so they go to a lot of trouble optimising these areas.
Additives and non-water coolants are a con and I'm surprised are still marketed.
Clean water with only just enough inhibitor to stop freezing and corrosion is all you need.

 

Thanks for al your replies guys - Thinking about it I used the ICE in my motocross bikes which rev high anyway, so as auag says i may just use the manual information for the fluid.

 

I think with some of the specialised coolant you need to completely rinse & get rid of traditional coolant in the system first. Unless your needs are special, the OEM product is what I would & have used.
If you go for non pre-mixed type, make sure you use de-mineralised or distilled water.
You ca nalso reduce the running temp by using a one step hight viscocity oil

 

This is the best of all !

http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/products/1

 

Just checking but you aren't serious that Evans' is useful, yes?

 

I use Silkolene Mag Cool in mine.

 

Yes I am! You never have to change your coolant again and it has a lifetime warranty!
Also, there is no pressure at all, because it is waterless.
The Wheeler Dealers and Jay Leno also showed it.
I use it since 2011 in all my motorcycles. Google it and you will find out yourself.

 

Is there any manufacturer of bikes or cars that fit 100% waterless coolants OEM?
Answer... no, none.
Why is that?
Why don't Porsche, Ferrari, Ducati or any premium brand where the marginal cost of coolant has no impact on list price use it?
Glycols have a lower specific heat capacity than water, they are useful additives to stop corrosion or freezing, but are poor heat transfer fluids.
Try Googling the independent tests of Evans, the ones that didn't go too well! You may be surprised.

 

VERY interesting differences of opinion here and the notation of glycol being a poor heat transfer fluid.

I chose to remain with OEM only because of the faffing around with flushing etc to do a proper changeover.

 

Would not use Evan's at all!






Plenty more on there as well, crazy!

 

This just adds another level of complication to riding my bike. Maybe once manufacturers use this kind of products as OEM and they become readily available in any supermarket, there is a case for it.
Until then, I would not like to be stranded if I have to top up the coolant for any reason

 

I think the main point from the video is that something that does not boil, doesn't alert you to a problem.

When your coolant boils, it creates pressure and then blows the pressure valve on the cap, releasing a shit load of steam, pointing to oh shit, something is wrong.

If it doesn't boil, then no pressure and temperatures go up and up until it does boil at 180 degrees, by then something major has gone wrong in your engine.

 

I use the manufacturer recommended coolant. Except in the track bike. That has to have engine ice, can't use traditional antifreeze.

 

<cynic mode on>A manufacturer not using a product that doesn't need to be replaced at x miles/years should not be viewed as a reason not to use it yourself.<cynic mode off>

I've been tempted to use the water free stuff before but never bothered as I couldn't be arsed with the prep work needed.

 

That is true, but is also not my point.
Manufacturers of high performance road vehicles pay very close attention to cooling systems, they are critical. These vehicles can cool easy at speed but struggle in town traffic, that's where the system is stressed, idling on a roasting day.
They don't use waterless because it has a lower heat transfer capacity per unit area of heat exchanger.
You like myself are free to contact Honda and ask them, I know what they'll say.
When building the SP version of the Blade they've changed all the big £ parts, brakes, wheels, suspension, for the very best available, and even blue printed the engine.
But they forgot to put £10 of glycol in the cooling system?

 

If your pump or thermostat broke, the first you would know about it, is a warped cylinder head, instead of a face of steam, I know which I would rather have