Calipers looking a little grubby, have been recommended to use Auto Finesse iron out contaminate, firstly is it ok for bikes ? and anyone used it ?
I've not used this particular product but use the Bilt Hamber equivalents Korrosol and Auto wheels. AF iron out is like BH Korrosol and for paintwork, its designed to make the rust particles easier to remove without affecting the wax layer so calipers should be OK. Auto wheels has added degreasers and is stronger, you just need to keep an eye on that the copper grease etc is not removed. It actually works really well just don't apply on a warm surface do not let dry and rinse well. It really stinks so do it outside
I hate to disagree Slick but I would hope there is no copper grease present, you should not use copper grease on modern alloy callipers, there are far better alternatives like Ceratec. if the op is going to remove the callipers then a good degreaser is fine if you then give the callipers a spray with GT85 and re grease the pads
Will brake cleaner not shift it? I tend to spray over mine fairly often so they never get too much of a build up but it's pretty potent stuff.
Yes I stand corrected, I haven't changed my greasing habits since my first mg metro!, will have a look at ceratec
Brake cleaner is fine if removing calipers so you can re apply some corrosion protection. If you use your bike in winter I would only use strong cleaners / degreasers if you are removing the calipers, then having cleaned the calipers and pistons spray with GT85 (this dries and leaves a PTFE coating) then apply Ceratec to the pads and pins. if really dont want to remove calipers, use a mild car shampoo rinse then ideally spray with Bilt Hamber Atom Mac as this can be sprayed onto discs and calipers Some may think i'm over cautious, but i have never had a sticky calliper or corroded pistons and i ride in all weathers
Being old I have also only used copper slip, I remember quite a few years ago they outlawed the old formula for some reason, a bit like creasote you now get the new version, I have been doing brakes for the last 40 years and cannot say I have seen any corrosion or issues with new copperslip. I have even stuck my meter in a pot of copperslip for conductivity tests and comes up negative. I could be converted if enough people say ceratec is much better
Me too, used it for forever for no reason other than this is what my dad told me to use on brakes when he showed me how to it, but we're talking Cortinas, Datsuns, Metros etc. I can ride up to 20K a year in all weathers and never had a problem with exception to corroded pistons (sorted by upgrading to Stainless steel), but always open to advice. For example I no longer copper slip on threads but instead use ACF50 corrosion block. After a bit of research there is quite a bit of debate/science and compelling arguments against the used of copperslip. Galvanic Corrosion, conductivity affecting ABS sensors etc. https://pagid.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Copper-grease.pdf https://mintex.com/copper-slip-vs-ceratec/?lang=en-gbr As part of an experiment just bought some specialist brake lube, Mintex Ceratec https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mintex-Cer...ds=ceratec&qid=1586498657&s=automotive&sr=1-4 Proslip Brake Grease https://www.amazon.co.uk/ProSlip-Ca...ds=ceratec&qid=1586498539&s=automotive&sr=1-4 Bought some ATE Plastilube too but cancelled that order after further research that it gummed up after a few months. https://www.amazon.co.uk/ATE-03990210022-Plastilube-Universal-Lubricant/dp/B003VXPY2M/ref=sr_1_2? dchild=1&keywords=plastilube&qid=1586498744&s=automotive&sr=1-2 Firstly I'm going to test each grease's performance against Fall out remover(Thioglycolic Acid), Wheel cleaner, and brake cleaner Then as part of a longer term test, service the calipers using the greases and insert new pads and inspect wear rate, surface temps and report back, though it is likely I wont be riding for the foreseeable!
Exactly Slick, Copperslip was designed for cast iron calipers, I first used it in 1977 then through my career as a motor mechanic. I had read the research on Galvanic corrosion so decided not to use it any more, so have been using Ceratec for several now along with ACF50
I use Fuchs pbc lube just looks like copperslip, it is non conductive and makers state for use in salt water environments, I also used the blowtorch on some and still not conductive. My body resistance is 1.7 meg ohms
Never had an issue with copper slip. Been using it for over 30 years and never had an issue. There is lots of dispute over the use of it. But I've never read it. I'll stick with what I know at least until the tin runs out.
