Hi there, So I ordered 1000rr wheels for my bike to replace, and I didn't realize there are differences in the wheels for the ABS and non-ABS model. Got a call from garage saying they can't fit the rear one, because it is not compatible with the ABS. I'm wondering if there is any work around on this that someone successfully done, or not? I got really good deal on those OEM wheels too, and they were the right color, so it would be nice if I could somehow work this out... Garage also told me that my front wheel has the worst damage, and I should be able to ride on my slightly bent rear wheel. It was not letting any air out, so maybe this is not that big of a deal for now. What are your thoughts? Also the seller says that if I send the wheels back to him he can drill the mounting holes in the wheel, as he's done it before. I don't know how safe this would be. Oh and this is the mounting holes that I'm talking about. The wheels I bought are missing the 4 smaller holes.
I've heard that those wheels can be drilled too. In the mean time your old wheel doesn't look too bad. Should bend back nicely with some heat and a large adjustable spanner, although it will damage the paint.
As an engineer I would imagine Honda designed the same wheel just with the holes for the abs ring drilled and tapped as the only difference to bring manufacturing costs down as opposed to two different sets of wheels - if there is “meat” on the wheel where the holes are required you won’t have an issue - any half decent machine shop will be able to sling the holes in - I’d expect 1-1.5 hours work - mostly to set up and confirm concentricity to the wheel prior to machining - if you get your seller to do it all good, if not shouldn’t be more than £100 all in. Regarding drawings, you shouldn’t need one, just take the wheel and the ring and bolts
On looking in more detail it appears they are different - I’ve highlighted the area that for me would be a concern. There doesn’t seem to be a raised section on the other wheel picture which leads me to believe you might not have enough material to get maximum engagement from the thread to the bolt.
Btw if anyone by some miracle is willing to swap their ABS rear wheel to my non-ABS one let me know The condition of this rear wheel is pretty much mint, as it was swapped out by original owner to put OZ wheels on. Here's a picture of the set: Or if anyone is selling them. Because I don't know how much faith I have in the whole drilling thing, I think it will only be on my mind that something might be wrong with the tolerances. I'm getting to the point where I might buy original wheel from the Honda site, which is like 850 euros for the wheel. Was searching all day on Ebay and there is pretty much nothing in terms of the ABS versions of these wheels.
Yeah I can't really find anything. The 2013+ both OEM wheels go for more than 1200 euros from what I saw. Also I found the tolerances in the manual, and someone who is willing to do the drilling locally. I guess the best way to make this work is get it drilled, tapped and then put some sort of spacers till correct distance is achieved?
The way I look at is what's the worst that can happen by drilling your wheels if it doesn't work. You would end up with some pointless holes that are hidden by the brakes. I'd cross my fingers and go for it.
That's a good point. Also on ebay I saw some wheels from Australia, I'm guessing based on the price they are as good as the chinese ones? I don't know if I can post links here, but: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-an...179176?hash=item2ad7903728:g:a2gAAOSwGtRX0MKi
I would never trust wheels that aren't OEM or a reputable manufacturer. I had some cheap car alloys back when I was into all that, they split around the centre of the rim whilst I was travelling on a dual carriageway...not fun.
I had a similar ding in my Fireblade rear wheel. Took it to a place near Grantham last November and it was made perfect again for £80 in about an hour or two. They took tyre off to do it so I took advantage and took along a new tyre for them to refit instead of the old one. Just looked it up on Google. It was ST motorcycles in Foston, Grantham (in a small village in the middle of nowhere). Did a great job on the wheel. They will fix wheels by post too, in case you can't get there in person
I heard that after straightening the wheel, the metal structure is damaged, and it might bend again quite easily without even hitting anything, has it been good so far? But cheers for the recommendation, I emailed them.
You might be right. It's ok so far but not done more than 100 miles on it due to winter then Covid lockdown. Lots of people get wheels straightened and it was only £80, so even if the dent comes back I won't be much worse off. Dent was caused by hitting a whacking great pot hole on a Belgian motorway at speed. Even if the wheel isn't quite as strong as it was when new, I think it should be pretty good, but time will tell...
So I got bike back from garage. Turns out the wheels are from 2007 year bike, they had to adjust a bit the front wheel to even make the rotors fit. The color is also off than my rear wheel. I think I will be returning these wheels, because I'm not even sure how compatible they are, find another set of wheels for this bike, with or without ABS, and then remove the entire ABS system, because I would get ABS faults all the time anyway. So 2 questions, does anyone know if these wheels from 2007 are compatible with my bike, and when removing ABS, is it just hardware that needs to be changed or also something in the software? And maybe someone knows which years orange wheel colors match to the 2011 blade? I'm guessing from 2008?
Fortunately the ABS is standalone but there are a few electrics to sort out. https://www.1000rr.co.uk/threads/abs-removal-honda-1k-sp-2014-how-to.29455/ I've left the abs bits in mine but the abs itself is deactivated, just need to find time to kill the ABS light - lol that would be now then!
