I finished the first prototype of a Fork Mount device so I can mount my iphone on my Yoke. It is an expanding fork tube mount, which is joined to standard gopro type hook, which is joined to another piece which ends in a quadlock type adapter. The case I printed for my phone has a quadlock type socket embedded in it. Seems quite sturdy but needs a few improvements.
A picture of the fork stem mount. It's printed in PETG which is quite tough but the bottom nut carrier started to crack, so I redid that in PLA (which is why it's yellow - it's what I had loaded on the printer at the time). The rubber bands are also printed. I'm not 100% happy with the gopro hook though. I took it for a test drive and the phone is too close to my face, and with my depreciating close-vision, it was difficult to read much on the screen. I've redesigned this part to push the mount further towards the dash. This is the redesigned mount attached to the bike with a printed iPhone 11 hard case. It's better and does not obstruct the dash or getting to the bike key. For most people this would be the perfect placement. How it looks seated on the bike: I'm still not 100% happy though, for me it would be better offset to the left, between the left fork cap and the key, and lower. I think it will fit, I just need to start the CAD again and design yet another bracket
First off I admire your ingenuity, however with all the Black Friday deals that Quad lock have on, it would probably be far quicker to just buy the ball joint and arm which will allow you to position the phone off to the left. Also, if you are dead set on making your own mount, you’ll need some sort of dampening to avoid braking the iPhone camera.
I enjoy designing and making stuff. If I don't have to shell out a hundred quid for a complete Quadlock/RAM system that's just a bonus. I can put that into a new pair of gloves or boots. It's a good point, but the problem with both Quadlock and Rokform is they are extremely rigid systems and this allows high frequency vibrations to travel all the way from the bike to the phone. My printed parts while tough are not so rigid so low frequencies are damped, and where the mount interfaces to the bike is separated by rubber o-rings which mitigates some of the high-frequency vibrations. I've also considered using one of my old iphones (I have a spare 3GS, 4S and 5S which still work fine) instead, just in case.
Quad Lock have introduced a Vibration Dampener and it's much better now. Try taking the bike for a spin with it on, video recording from the phone, it will 100% be unwatchable. The vibrations will knacker the auto focus of most lenses now. Especially on what looks like an iPhone 13 case.
Hello guys/bikers, I’m new here and I made account only because I have a question for you I have offer to buy full yoshimura rs-5 and what I want to know is, does the pipes from cbr1000rr 2006-07 fits for 2004-05? -SC57 model- Thanks in advance!!
Yes both versions are the same fitting. The only difference that I'm aware of is the standard tail pipe setup on the 4/5 has extra plastics to cover the back box as the 6/7 is polished. Some countries (probably non EU) don't have a cat in the header pipe, but if you're removing a standard exhaust then you will need to tie up the exhaust servo or buy a servo bypass module.
Fitted a Quad lock phone mount which I purchased as a Black Friday deal. Was going to use it today to mount the phone on the fork stem so I had GPS to get me to a new office location only to cop out cos the roads were too icy! Joined meeting online anyway!
Got the old girl semi naked yesterday to finally replace the scraped left fairing that’s been on for years. Recently picked up a replacement but underneath things are looking really pretty grubby… Some of it looks like 13 years of encrusted grime and we’ve got some good rust and corrosion around the place. The paint on the sides of the rad is lifting pretty badly. Advice on getting these bits sorted? Or shall I not worry, just give it a damn good clean and ride it… TIA
Just give it a thorough clean and brush then plaster it in spray and put the fairings back on. Think that's a little far gone to get back easily.
It all depends how much work you're prepared to do. If it was mine, I'd take the headers off and blast them with a wire wheel and maybe hi-temp paint them, but first I'd look for some replacements and see what they'd cost to see if it's worth my time. The rad can be stripped and repainted, and all the grotty fasteners can be replaced with new ones.
A good 'truckwash' with a pressure washer, dry and a generous application of protection spray. Does wonders (see pic of recently cleaned CBR600F3) Check over everything exposed (see other pic) and clean insides of fairings before reassembly. She'll see ya for a while yet
Depends how handy you are. I would take the radiator off and repaint it and sort out the fans too, replacing all the hose clamps while youre at it. Don't take the exhaust headers off, you'll just end up struggling with the nuts/studs snapping off in the cylinder head, just use Harpic toilet cleaner, black bottle, x10 strengh, put that on the rusty exhaust header, give it a scub, leave foe 10 minutes and then rinse off with a hosepipe. Just be careful with that Harpic stuff though, wear gloves and goggles, it's nasty stuff but will clean the exhasut like new. You can make it look pretty decent again, just clean it bit by bit.
Cheers all - a few bits to keep me busy over the winter! Am handy but I’d like to do a bit more myself to be honest What do you suggest for repainting the radiator with?
Got my alcantara covered seat back from saddlecraft after having a gell pad and extra foam added. Carnt wait to try it out. At least it will be more grippy and hopefully more comfy than the oem one.
