When you've got it fixed run a voltmeter to the cockpit off the battery through a relay. Gives you decent peace of mind, this is my VFR. 98-02 VFRs suffered with the same charging issues as 04-05 Fireblades.
Didn’t think of looking at old receipts for parts…. Good thinking. I’ll check Battery has always been good. Tests all good but the readings were top not bottom of range.I always thought that was strange. Even after the winter lock up with no tender she started no problem. Too good to be true ? If I was to guess I’d say the R/R is original. Or any work carried out was very good. Everything looks like it grew there. All original even down to the straps in exactly the right place. I’m familiar with our Honda charging issues as I’ve had my other blade for over 20 years. I’ve got a few jobs to do now. Side stand delete/ ECU connection and now I’m going to add the stator to my list. Genuinely appreciate all the help. Cheers
Side stand metered and proved. ECU connections look snug and tight. Stator, although tested good was removed today. I just wanted to take a look. She looks dark but no particular blackened areas. I can see some hot spots and I’ve also got some dark patches on the tips.
Still none the wiser and I’m getting a little frustrated and tired with this now. Before I removed the stator I fired her up. I brought her home sick yesterday. Really lumpy running and slipping the clutch just to get here. Today she fired up easily and I let her warm up till the fan came on. I metered my battery voltage during warm up and no issues. No hesitation as I rode up and down the path. Any thoughts on my stator even though tests proved good ?
There was a member on here with the same model, he had starting problems and tried lots of options, I think he sorted it with a fresh ecu, see if you can find one and at least rule it out
The hesitation and then going off like hell reminds me of my brother's priller. The flywheel had come loose, chewed the woodruff key and spun on the crank. Do you have an infrared thermometer? Check all 4 headers are the same temp. Does it backfire at all?
Cheers buz. I had the stator off the bike this week and did inspect the fly wheel whilst I had the chance. I had previously proved it with a meter but wanted a visual. Apart from definite ridges and a thin film of pic up on its inner wall everything seemed fine. Seeing as I had stalling issues within my problem I replaced my clutch switch. This is something I had also proved but it could of been cleaner so just in case I was getting any arcing, I swapped it out. Can anyone here confirm as to whether the bike only uses one bank of injectors whilst in neutral… ie…. Stopped in neutral, clutch in, select gear, pull away brings in secondary bank all by way of clutch switch through ECU ? Not sure of quality of info about that ! This weekend throttle bodies off. Clean and inspect. Cheers for everyone’s help.
Yes one bank of injectors , you can see the second bank working with the air box top off as you rev the engine , I think its @ 5000 rpm
So after giving be fuelling system a good clean I took the bike out yesterday and she was faultless. However she’s proven of late that things aren’t always as they seem. One last spin today and then that’ll prove it surely. I got all dressed up, full of positivity that this was going to be the end of my pain. Stuck my lid on, got on,….. barely started, real slow turn over then whoomph into life. Bollx ! Tested the battery whilst she was purring away with her fresh fuelling and got 12.6V. Not good but hopefully this has pin pointed my issue. I tested my stator previously and she was all good. This time it’s not. The 3 wires exiting the stator are all down to earth. I can only imagine it was on its way out before and has now given up the ghost. Previously I mentioned that when she was having a moment “ I pushed the horn” and at that very second she responded with a stutter. As I said, I tested everything and it all came back good. I even removed the stator for a visual. Anyways. Time to remove that ‘ kin fairing again and have a look see.
Cheers for the confirmation. I only hope that replacing the stator will be an end to my actual running issue. I can only guess that the better running at a higher rpm was masking or hiding what was going on. Fingers crossed.
Have a look round on the forum about the 04/05 charging system. There's loads of info about people needing to put the 06/07 stator/flywheel combo into their bikes.
I’ll have a look as you suggested. If there’s a better way to go than just bolting a fresh one in I’d like to know. Cheers
As an electronics engineer but not experienced on stators I gotta ask. What is your definition of ‘continuity’? Most meters will beep on diode tests when less than 100 ohms. That is considered continuity for low power circuits but definitely not for high wattage devices. For example a headlamp bulb may read 3-4 ohms and will trigger the beep, and you’d think that’s direct to earth but it’s not, because it needs to be low resistance to eat all that current to turn it to light. Anyway- my point is that the stator is lots of thick copper wire which isn’t going to have much resistance, so put your meter across it and read how many ohms it is between each winding. I’m expecting they’d all very low and read the same. If one winding is different to the others then I’d assume stator is faulty. I expect you’re right though, I just dont want you jumping to a wrong conclusion and spending money on it if it won’t fix your problem.
Don't forget he's talking about continuity between the phases and ground so even a low reading is still no good. It needs to be "open circuit". Anyway, as you can see from his pic.....its fried.
From the block wired to the stator I probed between each connection (X3) and the battery earth terminal and had continuity, or a “beep”. I also did an ohms test between the connections and if I can remember correctly all the measurements were about 0.7 with the meter on its lowest setting. Think I got that bit right, I was all over it with the meter. That might of been between the 3 yellows from the r/r but don’t think so. Cheers
So. Stator replaced. 12.8V @ idle and moves up and down the voltage range with the throttle inputs up to about 4k rpm. No more than 14.5V. Lid on…. Take it for a spin. Still rubbish. Missing at low rpm. Stalling. Previous ride I thought I’d got it right with fuel system clean only to find a flat battery the next day. I’ve tested the r/r connections and they all read correctly. This was done without the bike running. My running test ac voltages seem to be erratic though. One minute low and very little response to throttle and other times perfect. This may be me trying to get a better connection with the probes. I’m trying hard here but not there yet so any more suggestions please. Cheers
