Hi All After a lithium battery for my 2014abs. conflicting part numbers when I google it. Any recommendations advise please and where to purchase. Sports bike shop don’t stock one.
I use a LIPO07A in my 2015abs. It's shorter so I put a bit of square ali tube in to take up the space and let all my gadget wiring go into the gap left. I also turned it to be 'top up' to get the terminals in the right place. It's less Ahr than the original and I had to update my old 'top up' charger to a lithium friendly. I bought it on Ebay in 2019 and it's still doing it's stuff. I think the key part in the part number to size it is the 7.
Did you fit a lithium specific regulator rectifier or trust in the batter management system (BMS) circuitry built in to the battery?
no need to change the rectifier. The bike puts out abot 14.5V which is perfect for charging LFP batteries. BMS is a must. If you buy one without (e.g shorei), then you'd need a balancing charger. I have not needed to chage mine since I bought it (Noc 2019!) but the bike gets used all year round
So the Yuasa has finally given up on my Blade and the question is, do I just go for a Yuasa replacement or do I try one of these new Motobatt Hybrids? https://motorcyclepartsstore.co.uk/...ts/batteries/motobatt-hybrid-battery-mhtz14s/
Don’t know what year your bike is @ray but my 2016 loves it’s lithium https://www.1000rr.co.uk/threads/2016-sp-which-battery.41889/#post-557429
Not sure about hybrid. Best or worst of both worlds Yuasa is expensive. You can go with normal motobat or go LFP depending on your riding needs. Just be aware LFP s have very low capacity so check your parasitic drain
Mine is a 2007 SC57 model. The thing that concerns me with the hybrid is it only has a capacity of 7Ah when the Yuasa has a capacity of 9Ah?
The Shido I’m using is only 2.4 Ah, but the cold cranking amps are 150 EDIT - Just to be clear this is the Shido recommended for my blade - covers 08 to16 none ABS Images from sport bike shop website - You can check for yours particular model here https://www.afam.com/en/service-2/battery-search/
Capacity for lithium is not comparable to lead acid. You can only use 50% of a lead acid before it’s flat but you can use damn near 100% of a lithium.
At the moment I can get a Yuasa or Shido for about the same price… I’m assuming the Shido has a BMS? If I go that route I can pick up a new multi-use charger for around £20-£30
other than shorai, I beleive all LFP batteries on sale over here have on board BMS. This includes shido. Shido has low Ah rating so make sure it matches your use. I bought aliant 2.5 years ago with 4.5Ah which is the highest I could get for the size. I recommend CTEK regular charger. They do one for lithium but I have no experience of it. I had a battery tender junior for LFP & lead acid but it went faulty, replaced with Noco 1 charger which I have found it very disappointing with lead acid batteries. and have only used it once with my aliant!
Wow! That Aliant looks like it has the same Ah as the equivalent Yuasa https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/248790
TBH I do not subscribe to the "Pb equivalent" terminology. It was created in the early days of LFP to make the batteries capacity more appealing. Shido is about 2.4Ah! The above aliant I think is 3.8Ah I ride all year round, I searched hard to find the aliant YLP14 which is 4.3Ah to cope with my winter riding at temperatures down to about 3deg. Could I have got away with smaller & cheaper battery who knows!
If you are referring to my post above (https://www.1000rr.co.uk/threads/lithium-battery’s.40797/#post-558477) I am talking about chemistry, not marketing. I build battery packs for solar storage and mobile leisure applications so I know what I'm talking about. I can give you references to material elsewhere if you'd like.
Coda My comment was actually for Ray. Lithium is used in many different applications as you have referred to. The needs are different for each application. As a starter battery Ah andCCA ratings are used in the battery specification. CCA in particular has two flavours sae and DIN. https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/understanding-the-specifications/ We know LFP battery perform badly @ -18°c and are dead below 8~9v. In addition they have much lower Ah rating. Different manufacturers have decided to use different ways of measuring CCA&Ah for which no official standards exist (as far as I know). This enhances the battery’s apparent performance. If you are “switching from lead acid to an LFP battery”, unless you are aware of the specification methodology, you could be wrongly impressed by those of LFP batteries. I am sure you already know most of the above. I just thought I include it for the benefit of other members who may not be aware
Yes I suspected what you meant after I posted previously, but decided to leave it to prompt further discussion. Sorry if it came across a bit arrogant. You are right in saying (and I paraphrase) that manufacturers are unscrupulous arseholes - they twist the stats to fit their marketing.
