Tried removing the posts but then it's completely flat so no good. So just tightened them up so the bracket just bent slightly so it was flat to the post Also programmed another key using an adaptor cable from Ebay. Easy peasy. Removing the fairing took a lot longer
On a roll today. As I had one half of the fairing off I took off the other half to fit a Healtech gear indicator. Tucked the excess cable behind the fusebox
Fitted a Puig Z screen in light smoke today. Standard screen didn't seem that great at deflecting the wind so going to give this one a try to see if it makes any noticeable difference. Will post back with my opinion if the weekend is dry. I like the way it looks anyway
I put a Puig on my 2012 Repsol and found it reduced the wind on my chest area quite a bit. Depends how big you are I suppose.
You'll probably find it OK then. I'm just under 5 10 so a southern short arse before anyone from over the arctic circle here mentions it.
It's that time again. Hot damn! Check out the exhaust clearances. There are days when I'd pop the cams for that pot 3 inlet but today's not one of them. .19 feeler was ultra-tight and as far as I can tell the inlets have only opened somewhere in the region of .002 to .003 each. I know the shim size that's in there so will order a replacement and do it next time around. The exhausts had more variance. On average they've opened about .005 but valves 4 and 8 (Pot 2R and 4R) are up by .01+. ...which is nothing drastic. The zxr opens it's exhaust clearances by twice that in 2/3 of the miles. Still - worth keeping an eye on. Fair-thee-well ya clattery wee bampots. So looking forward to being able to hear the camchain and valves without those reeds drowning them out. Blanking plates from AliExpress. With the discount voucher that I always seem to have in hand there they were just over a tenner posted. Patch of wondertape inside and out to stop road crud getting fired down onto the cam cover. Love this stuff. It's rubber cladding for water mains really but has sooo many uses... You put it on with heat and it sticks to anything(including nylon, Royalex and the likes). Much needed lick of paint for the electrical brackets. I dare say that's a familiar pile of leftover junk to the folk round here. Right then. Time to see if I can remember how to put everything together again. At least there'll be a little more room to play with the PAIR stuff gone. Willing to bet that fitting the intake is still a pain though. That thing was NOT designed with maintenance in mind. P.S. The cap for plugging the airbox that came with the blanking plates felt a bit flimsy and needed stretched a lot to fit. I opted instead to use a bung, cut in half and fitted from the outside. The hole it's blocking is tapered too so the smaller bit crammed in until it was flush on the inside and the bigger bit crammed in is flush with the outside. They're well tight - not going anywhere. The tiny bung went in the hose for the flapper vacuum bottle which I backed up with some gaffa tape and slipped into the frame beside the reg/rec alongside whatever that existing tube is(breather or overflow).
Finally got a picture of the new Giles chain adjusters fitted also just fitted new mini led indicators and new gloss black belly pan !
I appear to have inadvertently sorted my cold starting issue. Last night I noticed that the engine turned over on the button a fair bit quicker than before. This morning I went out first thing and it leapt into life first prod - which it's never really done on a frosty morning. Could be other factors - I gave the plugs a quick clean while I was in there(but they weren't bad - colour-wise they looked spot-on, weren't that dirty and the gaps were good). Cleaned and DC4'd all the connectors behind the headstock too... ...but I suspect it's removing the two solonoids that's made the difference. Just checked their resistance and both were fine(right on the low end of the range) but it's two less things drawing power so yeah, could well be what's done it. Radiator rotary wire brushed and painted where it's been taking a beating. Next...
The grottiest part of spring clean. ...but also the most satisfying to see all shiny again. Ordered a bunch of M6 stainless shoulders. Which have an 8mm diameter - even though Honda in their wisdom decided to make theirs 8.25mm. Close enough for jazz. Feeding the bike a lot of stainless this time round. My dad's a year-round rider too so the fasteners were on their way out before I even got my hands on it.
That's better. ...as is that. Bought this flare nut spanner on ebay about a year ago just because no-one was bidding on it and I noticed Bahco charge a ludicrous £35 for them. Knew if it was kicking around I'd find a use for it. Shall now forever be known as the CCT spanner.
Managed a flier from work so new pads and full brake fluid change,can’t believe how dirty the fluid was after only a year and the sbs pads that were in were shagged after only 1400 miles and I don’t ride it that hard Quick blast up the road all ok like new again just in time for MOT in 3 weeks
Heat shield was starting to fur up and pit. Heavy 2k undercoat and a cut back to fill the pits. Jet black base then 2k matt clear. Starting to get the hang of the matt lacquer(my first attempts - the wheels - came out more satin than matt). The trick appears to be laying on a real thin final coat after a wet coat - so basically the opposite of normal lacquer. I've got the plastic cover for the heat shield but it mounts onto the rear footrest which I almost never have fitted. Just prefer the look without them. Oh, nice one! The new fairing clips have just dropped through the door - perfect timing! Job's a good un and back on the road.
Why so you can! ...and now I see them they make perfect sense - not at all like the comedy typo scenario my beer addled brain dreamt up last night.
Not so apparently. Though titanium is lighter, the SS doesn't conduct heat as well which is the aim of them.
Went a bit mad when ordering the lines. Also got new pads and RBF700 and new Dymag wheels and sprocket selection.
